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barrel lug repair
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I would use low temperature silver bearing solder to reattach the lug after I removed all traces of whatever solder is on it.
Brownells shows a solder called Hi-FORCE 44 which would be good. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=709/Product/HI_FORCE_44_trade__SOLDER
Brownells recommends using "No 4 Comet Flux" with this solder. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7624/Product/NO_4_COMET_FLUX
Similar solders are sometimes sold at hardware stores. Be sure to look at the composition on the label.
You are looking for a Tin solder with a small amount of Silver (Ag) in it.
It should melt in the 400-500 degree F. range and these temperatures are easily reached with a propane torch.
These silver bearing solders require a good flux for them to adhere to steel.
The last time I bought some of this the flux came with it in a little plastic tube.
There are Silver brazes with much higher amounts of silver in them available but these require temperatures well over 1000 degrees F to melt.
Temperatures that high are very likely to warp or bow the barrel.
Brownells shows a solder called Hi-FORCE 44 which would be good. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=709/Product/HI_FORCE_44_trade__SOLDER
Brownells recommends using "No 4 Comet Flux" with this solder. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7624/Product/NO_4_COMET_FLUX
Similar solders are sometimes sold at hardware stores. Be sure to look at the composition on the label.
You are looking for a Tin solder with a small amount of Silver (Ag) in it.
It should melt in the 400-500 degree F. range and these temperatures are easily reached with a propane torch.
These silver bearing solders require a good flux for them to adhere to steel.
The last time I bought some of this the flux came with it in a little plastic tube.
There are Silver brazes with much higher amounts of silver in them available but these require temperatures well over 1000 degrees F to melt.
Temperatures that high are very likely to warp or bow the barrel.
Last edited by a moderator:
Keb
50 Cal.
I would suggest replacing the barrel lug before soldering on the old one back on, too. You may have problems lining up the old pin hole when soldering the old one back on.
Solder the new one on, put the barrel back in & drill the hole.
Solder the new one on, put the barrel back in & drill the hole.
I agree , use a new lug . I use 50/50 solder with paste flux. Big thing is having a clean surface. Tin the area being soldered and the lug using the flux liberally and dont overheat part before starting to apply solder . After tinning flux again and clamp lug heat until bonded . Havent had one pop off yet !
Swamp Buck
40 Cal.
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Interesting timing on your post. This past weekend I was finally able to shoot my flintlock 20 gauge fowler for the first time. It shot great with both birdshot and patched roundball.
Once home, as I was finishing up the cleaning process I heard a "ping" type sound come from the muzzle end of the gun. Upon inspecting, I found the front most barrel lug had separated from the barrel. This was a little distressing to say the least. On a side note, I had used the Hi-Force 44 solder from Brownells for the barrel lugs.
Anyway, the following day I took the gun apart and found that the whole area between the lug and barrel was rusty. Not one speck of clean or shiny bare metal on the lug or barrel at this spot. I cleaned up the barrel and lug, fluxed them both and positioned the lug back on the barrel. I knew I was risking the pin hole not lining back up but I figured I would take the chance. This time I used common plumbing silver bearing solder. I used this since I would not have to heat the barrel up as much and risk damaging the browned barrel finish.
Once done, I reassembled the gun, and keeping my fingers crossed, found that the pin went right through the stock and through the hole in the lug. I guess I got lucky.
Once home, as I was finishing up the cleaning process I heard a "ping" type sound come from the muzzle end of the gun. Upon inspecting, I found the front most barrel lug had separated from the barrel. This was a little distressing to say the least. On a side note, I had used the Hi-Force 44 solder from Brownells for the barrel lugs.
Anyway, the following day I took the gun apart and found that the whole area between the lug and barrel was rusty. Not one speck of clean or shiny bare metal on the lug or barrel at this spot. I cleaned up the barrel and lug, fluxed them both and positioned the lug back on the barrel. I knew I was risking the pin hole not lining back up but I figured I would take the chance. This time I used common plumbing silver bearing solder. I used this since I would not have to heat the barrel up as much and risk damaging the browned barrel finish.
Once done, I reassembled the gun, and keeping my fingers crossed, found that the pin went right through the stock and through the hole in the lug. I guess I got lucky.
I would put the site back in place as it came off, scribe it very well around it, then clean it up good & put the same lug back on in the same position. Good chance the retaining pin will go right back in place & at the least require just a tad of filing. Make sure it has relief fore & aft on the underlug pin hole as that may be what caused the lug to pop off, it it doesn't have enough clearance both ways.
:thumbsup:
:thumbsup:
paulvallandigham
Passed On
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Just to add to what Steve is talking about, the hole for the pin needs to be a SLOT, fore and aft of the center of the hole. Swelling and shrinkage of the wood during seasons of the year can put enough pressure on the pin to stress the solder joint, if this is NOT DONE. Occasionally, solder joints will fail, or "pop" off the lug, under that stress, particularly if a poor solder job was done, or soft solder was used.
Solder, applied properly, will normally hold the lug from being pulled away ( at 90 degrees) from the barrel. However, It does not usually have that same capability to withstand SHEER forces- as in a parallel-to-the-barrel pressure placed on the joint. A Silver solder-- rather than ordinary plumber's or Electrician's solder--- which requires a higher temperature to melt, is preferred. To protect the barrel, tin the barrel and tin the lug with solder. Then clamp the two pieces together, and apply the heat to the LUG- NOT the barrel.
To protect the barrel during "tinning", simply wrap wet rags around the barrel both front and behind the location of the solder site, to act as a heat sink. That will prevent any possible damage to the barrel.
If the lug is too close to the muzzle, put a wet rag inside the barrel at the muzzle to act as a heat sink. Just grease the bore before putting the wet rag into the muzzle, and remember to remove it and dry the barrel thoroughly with dry cleaning patches when you finish soldering. :thumbsup:
Solder, applied properly, will normally hold the lug from being pulled away ( at 90 degrees) from the barrel. However, It does not usually have that same capability to withstand SHEER forces- as in a parallel-to-the-barrel pressure placed on the joint. A Silver solder-- rather than ordinary plumber's or Electrician's solder--- which requires a higher temperature to melt, is preferred. To protect the barrel, tin the barrel and tin the lug with solder. Then clamp the two pieces together, and apply the heat to the LUG- NOT the barrel.
To protect the barrel during "tinning", simply wrap wet rags around the barrel both front and behind the location of the solder site, to act as a heat sink. That will prevent any possible damage to the barrel.
If the lug is too close to the muzzle, put a wet rag inside the barrel at the muzzle to act as a heat sink. Just grease the bore before putting the wet rag into the muzzle, and remember to remove it and dry the barrel thoroughly with dry cleaning patches when you finish soldering. :thumbsup:
