Barrel lugs

[Ryan Saunders]

The barrel lugs included in this parts set I have are mighty skinny.... so skinny I think I'll just solder 'em on the barrel instead of dovetailing them in. What do you all think?

 

[mikemeteor]

well... since you asked... I think you're deviating from the game plan a little too quickly in the ballgame.
You might could get away with soldering, but I sense a mindset of "let's get this done the quickest and easiest way".
If I'm wrong on that, then I apologize.
If there's a shred of truth to that - and only you would know - then I urge you to resist those thoughts. :shake:

I think there's a good reason things are done/recommended as they are (like dovetailing lugs).
00+ years of experience and people before us making every mistake in the book have led to the recommended techniques.

Is there room for "customization" - maybe. Should a new builder be doing it (don't know if you're a new builder or not) - probably not.

Probably help to let folks know what your kit is so they could lend more specific assistance. I'd again urge you to heed the advice of the long-time builders here - I found right away it saves a lot of frustration and re-do's !

Stay the course, take your time, and have fun.
my 2 cents.
let us know how its going :thumbsup: !
/MM

 

[Ryan Saunders]

No, I haven't reached that point yet lol. Rather, I'm trying to figure out the best thing to do for what I have to work with. I think that the lug flats that would sit in the dovetail are too thin to hold good anyway, and, the lug extensions aren't long enough. They will be just about the right depth if I solder them on the barrel, but they will probably be too shallow if I dovetail them in. By the way, it's a Bucks County style rifle, 42" Colerain .40 caliber 13/16" straight barrel, deluxe Siler flintlock. That's another reason I think solder will be fine on this rifle anyway, it's a small caliber that will never be used for anything but plinking cans and killing squirrels and such... so no massive recoil to worry about lol

 

[rootsy]

What is "thin"? The lug only needs to protrude from the bottom of the barrel 3/16 or so...

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

I thin my underlugs to about .030 and solder them in after they have been dove-tailed. :hmm:

Works for me and they are stronger than either process individually.

 

[Vaino]

Bucks County LRs are very slim so a "B" weight, .50 cal. swamped Rice bbl {1"breech} x 46" lg is being used. Because the web at the breech is only 1/16"-3/32", a 1/16" deep dovetail is used and the bbl lug is made from 1/8" thick brass that's soldered in...this allows a 1/16 dia. pin. The other 3 lugs are made from .030 brass and the lug at the swamp "waist" is soldered on and the other two are dovetailed in. I use 1/16 dia. music wire for every pin in the LR. By the way, the web at the muzzle is 5/32". When soldered on lugs are used, make sure there's enough web because the base takes up some room...Good luck....Fred

 

[tg]

I would either use the lugs or staples instad opf solder, it is required on round barrels but the other methods are almost exclusively used on flat surfaces, I do not think you will "gain" any strength with the solder.

 

[J.D.]

Do you plan to solder the sights in place too? If not, then practice cutting dovetails where they won't show, if they aren't perfect. Practice makes perfect, so practice on cutting dovetails on the underlugs so's the dovetails for the sights will look good.

Secondly, if the underlugs are soldered in place, the protruding base will need to be inlet into the bottom of the barrel channel, so there is more work for you.

Thirdly, the extra thickness of soldering the underlugs on the bottom flat will make what should be a very slim rifle look thick and clunky.

Fourth, long underlugs protruding into the ramrod channel will interfere with the ramrod, so's they will need to be reduced in length, so you will be back where you started.

IMHO, dovetail 'em in,as they should be. It will save you a lot of work and a lot of frustration, in the long run.

God bless

 

[jerrywh]

How skinny?? Let's have a measurment. Skinny to you may not be too skinny.

 

[Birddog6]

If they are the lil skinny underlugs from TOW, they are OK and fine to dovetail in & they will hold. Well, unless you beat the H out of them putting them in the dovetails. I buy them 100 at a time & have no problems with them. Seems like they are about .30 or .035 thick at the base. When I buy other ones I cut them down that far anyway. :idunno:

Keep in mind was are not building a tank, we are holding the forestock Wood to the Barrel, that is all..... :wink:

Keith Lisle

 

[matt denison]

Almost all underlugs are too long (deep) to begin with and end up sticking out in the ram rod channel. Don't leave them any longer depth wise than needed which is 1/16 for the pin + 1/16 below that and in fact can be filed/ground to within 1/32 of the pin hole. Rule of thumb as I learned it is you only need half the thickness of the pin below the pin hole. I hope that makes sense without a picture.

 

[Birddog6]

Yes, I grind all of my underlugs off after I put them on the barrel, as I don't want them showing in the RR groove. Once in a while I can't help it but I try my utmost to hide them even if it is paper thin wood over it. Doesn't hurt for them to come out & allot of originals were that way, but I refrain from letting it happen if I can. I usually use slotted underlugs & then grind off 1/2 of what is in excess of the slot, as it is not needed. Then inlet the underlugs & drill thru the slot for the retaining pin.

Keith Lisle

 

[jerrywh]

Hello NMC is anybody home??

 

[J.D.]

Hello NMC is anybody home??

Probably preoccupied with left over turkey and fixins. :idunno: