Firstly, I put this here because I don't think it is just peculiar to a flintlock. Here's the problem...I built my rifle in 1981 and have fired thousands of rounds through it. It is a Douglas XX barrel in .45 cal. I load with ticking,spit (the real out-of-the-mouth stuff), and a swagged .445. Recently, after just a couple of shots, a ball has to be nearly hammered down the barrel. It seems to be in just the muzzel end down to where the short starter stops. Once I get the ball that far, the ramrod has no problem pushing the ball home. This has just started and nothing has changed from the way I loaded 20 years ago. I have steel wooled the barrel with a lubricant and that did not seem to help. I'm only good for about 2 or 3 shots befroe I have to really clean the barrel. A damp patch doesn't help at all. Any ideas of what the problem may be or how to fix it would be greatly appreciated. :cry:
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barrel ring?...hard loading
- Thread starter Dave Poss
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How does that last few inches of the bore look?
Have you changed anything? ticking, ball mold, spit content?
did your wife spray starch the ticking? (you never know)
Did you reciently "short start" a ball and possibly damage this portion ot the barrel?
Think of anything you have changed of late Longknife. Douglas barrels don't just change demensions overnight. I have a 15/16 x 36 .45 cal Douglas left over from the old days myself. It's the best barrel in the rack. Still looks like new inside after 25 years.
:thumbsup:
Have you changed anything? ticking, ball mold, spit content?
did your wife spray starch the ticking? (you never know)
Did you reciently "short start" a ball and possibly damage this portion ot the barrel?
Think of anything you have changed of late Longknife. Douglas barrels don't just change demensions overnight. I have a 15/16 x 36 .45 cal Douglas left over from the old days myself. It's the best barrel in the rack. Still looks like new inside after 25 years.
:thumbsup:
If you have a micrometer or a precision caliper, you might want to measure the ball diameter you are loading.
You may have bought a defective batch of balls (if your buying commercial brands), or if your casting your own, you may have used some lead with alloy in it by mistake? (different alloys cast different sizes).
You also might have picked up some patches which were thicker than the ones you've been using?
I use a tight patch/ball combination and have noted that the first 2-3 inches down the barrel is always tight. After 3 inches or so, the rest of the ramming goes easy.
I would jump to the conclusion that you got a different lot of powder which has more fouling, but you said a wipe with a wet patch doesn't help much.
For what it's worth, I was just reading about powder tests in BPC guns where the author compaired Goex with Swiss. He claimed the Swiss fouled a little less, but it was much more difficult to remove the fouling when compaired with Goex.
I must agree, barrels don't change overnite, and if they do, it would be getting larger due to wear.
Sorry, that's about the best I can do.
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You may have bought a defective batch of balls (if your buying commercial brands), or if your casting your own, you may have used some lead with alloy in it by mistake? (different alloys cast different sizes).
You also might have picked up some patches which were thicker than the ones you've been using?
I use a tight patch/ball combination and have noted that the first 2-3 inches down the barrel is always tight. After 3 inches or so, the rest of the ramming goes easy.
I would jump to the conclusion that you got a different lot of powder which has more fouling, but you said a wipe with a wet patch doesn't help much.
For what it's worth, I was just reading about powder tests in BPC guns where the author compaired Goex with Swiss. He claimed the Swiss fouled a little less, but it was much more difficult to remove the fouling when compaired with Goex.
I must agree, barrels don't change overnite, and if they do, it would be getting larger due to wear.
Sorry, that's about the best I can do.
::
T. A. Brown
32 Cal.
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LN, I must agree with the others on this barrel, I will say in the 40+ years I have been building custom hand made muzzleloaders I have heard of a lot of things that seem very strange. It could be the powder, the ticking or many other things as the others have said. To tell you the truth this is the 1st time I have heard of this kind of thing happing so fast, not that this helps any but I also agree that you should think about if any thing was done deff. I truly hope you can find out and then let use all know what it might have done it. Hang in there pard. :m2c:
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Keep ye powder dry and the wind at ye back
Tim/bear1st
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Keep ye powder dry and the wind at ye back
Tim/bear1st
Thanks for all the input on my sick flinter...since everyone seems to think it is a ball/patch/powder problem, I'm much releaved. I'll discard what I'm using now and start over with "all new" stuff...( I did get my ticking at a different store this last time-it could be a couple of mm's thicker) :hmm:. That's much better than having a barrel problem! 
again, thanks
again, thanksI must not be understanding this. I don't read too well, sometimes. A hunk of metal like your barrel won't change dimensions unless the boogers are around! And these boogers only wear out the muzzle end, as the gun "ages". I know little, but say lots. I think it is that "dadburn" suisse powder leaving a scrub resistant residue on the last few inches of the barrel! (that should have scrubbed out)I have never even seen their "furrin" powder but stole all this wisdom from these other fellows "in here". Great place for me to learn! That one sentence even sounded like I knew something.
Don't start from scratch, or you will never know what happened if it ceases. Good for you, bad for us? Change one little tiny thing at a time. Measuring, very accurately, the barrel and ball dimensions was a brilliant suggestion. And the best place to start. Is the patch's grasp of the ball changing at this point? The lead won't grow but the patch might "slice through" the weave of the patch yielding an easier feed after they slice? I'd almost try a thinner patch 1st! Thet's all there is "in there". Barrel, powder, ball and patch! Short starter? Let's hope it's coincidence that the difference is at this Pt.
IF you are feeling the normal difference from ease of using the starter and the ramrod AND using a very tight fit a little scrub resistant stuff might do it.
Can you feel it with a rod and patch? The increase in tightness at muzzle? If so "they's sumthin in there".
This is good. You can get it out. Good common sense and not listening to me will solve your dilemna. Please let us know! Don't hold it against them I talk too much. I love a gun mystery, can solve everbody's but mine! It ain't you and it aint the gun. You got a full blown patch or muzzle fouling dilemna. :relax:
Don't start from scratch, or you will never know what happened if it ceases. Good for you, bad for us? Change one little tiny thing at a time. Measuring, very accurately, the barrel and ball dimensions was a brilliant suggestion. And the best place to start. Is the patch's grasp of the ball changing at this point? The lead won't grow but the patch might "slice through" the weave of the patch yielding an easier feed after they slice? I'd almost try a thinner patch 1st! Thet's all there is "in there". Barrel, powder, ball and patch! Short starter? Let's hope it's coincidence that the difference is at this Pt.
IF you are feeling the normal difference from ease of using the starter and the ramrod AND using a very tight fit a little scrub resistant stuff might do it.
Can you feel it with a rod and patch? The increase in tightness at muzzle? If so "they's sumthin in there".
This is good. You can get it out. Good common sense and not listening to me will solve your dilemna. Please let us know! Don't hold it against them I talk too much. I love a gun mystery, can solve everbody's but mine! It ain't you and it aint the gun. You got a full blown patch or muzzle fouling dilemna. :relax:
I occasionally get a batch of cast bullets from my odd source scrap lead that is much harder than normal (I suspect tin solder in pipe joints and plumbers' re-casting seals before I ended up with them). These can make loading difficult. The fact that yours load hard but then loosen up sounds just like the situation I have with these. Try a few swaged balls or a few from a different lot.
As I understand a barrel that has been "rung", it will be easier to load as the ball suddenly slips through the section that is ringed, but will be more difficult on either side of the ring.
Possible you have picked up a bit of corrosion, but the steel wool should have helped that. I use J-B Paste if I find evidence of any. I have heard of people using strips of Scotch-Brite or Scrunge pads to scour and smooth out the bore, too.
As I understand a barrel that has been "rung", it will be easier to load as the ball suddenly slips through the section that is ringed, but will be more difficult on either side of the ring.
Possible you have picked up a bit of corrosion, but the steel wool should have helped that. I use J-B Paste if I find evidence of any. I have heard of people using strips of Scotch-Brite or Scrunge pads to scour and smooth out the bore, too.
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I know just what you are talking about ..however I have no idea what causes it . The wealth of knowledge already posted should work you out of this. I 'm glad to see the post cause I have had the exact problems with my smoothbore by times.
Good Luck
:thumbsup:
Good Luck
:thumbsup:
I am curious as to how long your barrel is. Some barrels over 38" have more fowling problems out at the muzzel end. A diffeent batch of powder may make that problem worse. Then a different batch of bullet may be slightly larger too. Same with the patching, even though you think you have the "same stuff" you always use. Now if that barrel has any choke at the muzzel, like some custom berrels do, all these things will seem worse. Some rust at the muzzel end will collect fowling more effectively too. However, your steel wool should have fixed that.
Drop a bore light in there after cleaning to see what you can see. Does a ball go down pretty easily if the barrel is clean, as in the first shot? If it does the problem nearly has to be associated with fowling.
Drop a bore light in there after cleaning to see what you can see. Does a ball go down pretty easily if the barrel is clean, as in the first shot? If it does the problem nearly has to be associated with fowling.
As usual when I ask questions...I get excellant advice/suggestions from the forum members. thank you. My variable after thinking about it was my cleaning solution. I used your suggestion and scrubbed the barrel with a scouring pad and goobs of stuff broke loose!The steel wool didn't do it, but the rough green rag did. apparently, the solvent I was using wasn't strong enough to brake up a day's worth of shooting but just cleaned enough to make me think it was doing it's job. I have the interstate flintlock match in Ky. Saturday (I'm one of 20 shooters representing Georgia)and I hope to be able to report that loading went great now that I have a clean barrel! thanks again to all :master: :master:
Yea!
'Ol Mother Stumpy just wants to mention that the Scrunge pads are not a after-every-session solution. They will abrade the rifling with repeated use. You need to get a non-mechanical cleaning method that works. I swab out at the range with an alcohol based moose milk and then use boiling water and soap at home that night.
If you really get brave there is a metal polishing pad offerred by Scotch-Brite that is half the thickness of a Scrunge, and leaves a polished finish on metal. BUT, they are more abrasive (abrasives added) so you would only need a very few strokes. I use the maroon (general-purpose) version to clean the stainless steel on my boat, but have not gathered up the courage to use it on a barrel. It SHOULD work, but you're on your own. This would be for refreshing a bad bore in despiration.
Good old tow is a bit more abrasive that cotton patching and does a great job of scouring the crud.
'Ol Mother Stumpy just wants to mention that the Scrunge pads are not a after-every-session solution. They will abrade the rifling with repeated use. You need to get a non-mechanical cleaning method that works. I swab out at the range with an alcohol based moose milk and then use boiling water and soap at home that night.
If you really get brave there is a metal polishing pad offerred by Scotch-Brite that is half the thickness of a Scrunge, and leaves a polished finish on metal. BUT, they are more abrasive (abrasives added) so you would only need a very few strokes. I use the maroon (general-purpose) version to clean the stainless steel on my boat, but have not gathered up the courage to use it on a barrel. It SHOULD work, but you're on your own. This would be for refreshing a bad bore in despiration.
Good old tow is a bit more abrasive that cotton patching and does a great job of scouring the crud.
OH! One more thing. Clean the barrel well after using Scrunge or Scotch pads. They have an abrasive compound in them (even the kitchen ones, I believe).
Good luck. Do us proud.
Good luck. Do us proud.
While your having fun at the shoot, tell the folks about this web site!
It's against the Forum rules to keep us to your self. ::
Seriously, I bet they would like to join us here, and the more knowledge we get here, the better the site becomes for all of us.
GOOD LUCK!!!
It's against the Forum rules to keep us to your self. ::
Seriously, I bet they would like to join us here, and the more knowledge we get here, the better the site becomes for all of us.
GOOD LUCK!!!
Shooting match went great with just a few minor rain spells. My old flinter loaded like she did when she was young....SMOOOOTH!!! Big thanks for all your help. Ghost and Madstone should be proud because KY. cleaned our[url] plows...in[/url] fact, Indianas, new yorks, Tenn, Penn. and all the other represented states. You have some good shooters up there in Blue Grass country! And Yes, I did talk up the forum.Several people were already "viewers" but had never added their :m2c:!!!!! All the Georgia team was aware of my recent barrel problems and were anxious to see them resolved ,which they were.I'm sure there will be more Georgians signing on. But Now, because of your help, I have to come up with all new excuses on why I miss! :cry: :thumbsup:
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Longknife: It's cause o them oldpossums! At's what em wer called back in tha ole times.
Some city person war a ritin all 'bout Kentucky stuff an wrot bout em oldpossums. He mis speled it "opossum", an city folk bein tha kind o' folks what believs stuf iffen it are writ just started a spelin it that way!
Anyhow, em folks from Kentucky are aweways a shootin em oldpossums outter em trees an such so thay get reel good with em smokepoles!
As fer yer reason fer havin a few wide shots, Ah am a ritin a book of scuuses called "Why Ah Kant Shoot Strate" by Zonie.
Ah hav a feelin that it wil sill real good on this har website aftar folks start a shootin em little 3 X 5 cards an mailin em in fer judgin. :: :: :: :crackup:
Some city person war a ritin all 'bout Kentucky stuff an wrot bout em oldpossums. He mis speled it "opossum", an city folk bein tha kind o' folks what believs stuf iffen it are writ just started a spelin it that way!
Anyhow, em folks from Kentucky are aweways a shootin em oldpossums outter em trees an such so thay get reel good with em smokepoles!
As fer yer reason fer havin a few wide shots, Ah am a ritin a book of scuuses called "Why Ah Kant Shoot Strate" by Zonie.
Ah hav a feelin that it wil sill real good on this har website aftar folks start a shootin em little 3 X 5 cards an mailin em in fer judgin. :: :: :: :crackup:
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