barrel wedge

[lenl349]

On my Pietta 1851 Navy, when the barrel wedge is pushed all the way through, the gun won't cock. if I pull it out a little so it's not sticking out on the right side of the revolver, it cocks. anyone else have this problem? and is it ok to shoot with the wedge part way out as long as the barrel is secure?

 

[Phil Coffins]

Your arbor is too short if the wedge binds the cylinder. Don’t drive the wedge in so far.

 

[LST-1185]

As Phil said it sounds like a short arbor. I would not recommend shooting your revolver till this is corrected. For my Uberti's I make a shim placed between the barrel frame and the arbor and adjust until I get a proper cylinder gap. Best regards.

 

[sourdough]

Normally CNC-machined Pietta1851 Navies don't have a short arbor/long arbor recess The pre-CNC (date code BP/2001 or earlier ones) revolvers are more prone to that. It is mostly Ubertis that have that problem.

I use .002" shim washers of the proper diameter in the arbor recess until the barrel lug just barely stands off the frame. This way you can drive the wedge in as far as it will go and the barrel forcing cone/cylinder gap won't change. I like a .002"-.003" gap on my revolvers.

Regards,

Jim

 

[sawyer04]

The wedge is probably the most over looked for accuracy of the weapon. It should not be pounded in or out . Should be able to remove with a finger push as well as install. Not as prevalent today as in the past, but no two wedges were the same. I always kept extra wedges in the bin and most were hand made in the shop. The wedge can be fitted with machine black or lamp soot and a feeler gauge, and yes an ample amount of time, .002-.003 cylinder gap should present good results, but the barrel has to be square with the cylinder to prevent gasses from escaping faster on one side. Mentioning gasses escaping, make sure the barrel is square cut at the muzzle.
i am going to try sourdough's shim washers in the arbor recess if the need arises, sounds easier and quicker.