It seems to me that people have trouble browning a barrel with Birchwood Casey Plum Brown.
IMHO one of the secrets to a nice finish with BCPB is to heat the entire barrel to the proper temp.
To heat the barrel I built a hot box.
I picked up some galvanized sheet metal at the local recycling center for 10 cents a pound.
I built a box 46 inches long 4 inches wide and 8 inched deep.
I put a shelf drilled full of holes 4 inches down from the top of the box. On the shelf I use short pieces of steel electrical conduit to rest the barrel on.
I found 4 500 watt halogen lights at a garage sale. I mounted the reflectors and bulb sockets to the bottom of the shelf with wire.
I wired the lights to a light switch.
I built a lid for the box and put an oven thermometer in the center of the lid.
I pit 2 layers of 1/2 inch sheet rock on the sides and top of the box leaving the bottom open.
I then covered the sheet rock with aluminum tape to hold it in place. If you use the box on plastic saw horses put some sheet rock between the box and the horse or it may melt the top.
To use, clean and degrease your barrel while wearing rubber gloves. When the barrel is clean and degreased pick it up with a clean cloth and place it in the hot box. Put the lid on the box turn on the switch and wait for the it to get to the proper temp. (in mine it's 275 degrees).
When the part is to temp, remove it with a clean cloth and apply the BCPB with a small piece of sponge being careful not to let it run. Do one entire flat then rotate the barrel and do the next.
With a little practice you should be able to do a coat on the entire barrel before it cools. Now wash and descale and repeat the process until you get the color you want.
Remember to keep your gloves clean. I wash them in soapy water and dry them between every coat. Make sure your cloth is clean also.
Only use hot brown in a well ventilated area and I recommend wearing an organic vapor respirator.
I've used this method for years to brown and rust blue parts with good results.
Hope this helps!
SC45-70
IMHO one of the secrets to a nice finish with BCPB is to heat the entire barrel to the proper temp.
To heat the barrel I built a hot box.
I picked up some galvanized sheet metal at the local recycling center for 10 cents a pound.
I built a box 46 inches long 4 inches wide and 8 inched deep.
I put a shelf drilled full of holes 4 inches down from the top of the box. On the shelf I use short pieces of steel electrical conduit to rest the barrel on.
I found 4 500 watt halogen lights at a garage sale. I mounted the reflectors and bulb sockets to the bottom of the shelf with wire.
I wired the lights to a light switch.
I built a lid for the box and put an oven thermometer in the center of the lid.
I pit 2 layers of 1/2 inch sheet rock on the sides and top of the box leaving the bottom open.
I then covered the sheet rock with aluminum tape to hold it in place. If you use the box on plastic saw horses put some sheet rock between the box and the horse or it may melt the top.
To use, clean and degrease your barrel while wearing rubber gloves. When the barrel is clean and degreased pick it up with a clean cloth and place it in the hot box. Put the lid on the box turn on the switch and wait for the it to get to the proper temp. (in mine it's 275 degrees).
When the part is to temp, remove it with a clean cloth and apply the BCPB with a small piece of sponge being careful not to let it run. Do one entire flat then rotate the barrel and do the next.
With a little practice you should be able to do a coat on the entire barrel before it cools. Now wash and descale and repeat the process until you get the color you want.
Remember to keep your gloves clean. I wash them in soapy water and dry them between every coat. Make sure your cloth is clean also.
Only use hot brown in a well ventilated area and I recommend wearing an organic vapor respirator.
I've used this method for years to brown and rust blue parts with good results.
Hope this helps!
SC45-70
