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Draw filing.

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I don't want to appear flippant or whatever, but draw filing sets the baseline for the intended finish of the barrel. So, it will take as long as need be to get the proper base for the following finish steps.
[More than once, I have been tasked to put a mirror finish on an octagon barrel ( admittedly, these bbls were not for muzzleloaders) - but still, draw filing requires persistence and that takes time...]
Your not being flippant. At least not from where I sit. I'm just trying to get a perspective for what I'm in for. Thanks
 
I don't think it's practical to say it should take a persons this long or that long to draw file a flat. Some barrels have more machine marks than others, some use techniques that are better than others, some files are better than others, and most importantly it depends on the final finish your working towards.
 
Not

Not fer sure from where I sit. I have to use this Android cell phone and I see no way to edit. Texting on a 1 1/2 inch X 2 1/2 inch keyboard invites errors. I'd love to be able to edit what I publish here and on Facebook. Pls hint me if there is something I'm missing.
On the left on your own posts, next to report are 3 dots. Click that. In there.
 
CANT YOU USE SAND PAPER START WITH 400 WORKING YOUR WAY TO 1000, OR AM I WORNG ON THAT THOUGHT?
 
CANT YOU USE SAND PAPER START WITH 400 WORKING YOUR WAY TO 1000, OR AM I WORNG ON THAT THOUGHT?
certainly you can use sandpaper, but will most likely round the flats, end up with rust from the sweat worked up, and spend a fortune on sand paper. i priced paper the other day. 8.99 for 3 sheets. not for this old duck.
 
When I draw file a barrel I take a black sharpie and go over the flat I'm filing, go in one direction and when the file loads up I use a brass or bronze wire brush to remove the filings. File cards are steel. Thumbs on top and index fingers on each side of barrel, go in one direction push or pull file. The sharpie will show you if you are tipping the file to one side, remark as needed. Comes off with sanding or steelwool.
 
certainly you can use sandpaper, but will most likely round the flats, end up with rust from the sweat worked up, and spend a fortune on sand paper. i priced paper the other day. 8.99 for 3 sheets. not for this old duck.
I used to use that after the draw filling, but stuff is better today. With sand paper or emory cloth, you have to back it with a file or piece of wood. I ain’t that hard. My dad had me doing it when I was 13 or so. I’m just lazy and old now. Practice.
 
I don't think it's practical to say it should take a persons this long or that long to draw file a flat. Some barrels have more machine marks than others, some use techniques that are better than others, some files are better than others, and most importantly it depends on the final finish your working towards.
Yea! The more I thought about it the more I realized that very thing. Too many variables to definitively say one thing or another. I'm not at that point right now anyway. Currently trying to smooth out a brass cast trigger guard. Strong desire to dip it in Bondo and a coat of paint. :) But I'll persevere and finish this thing the right way.
 
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All my files are junk and would like some new ones. Need them for draw filing and general work on machete and axes. THANKS
 
what file does everyone use?
For new files at a reasonable price the Bahco files are good. Find a single cut 8" to 12" smooth cut. Antique shops are a good place to look for old, USA made Black Diamond & Nicholson files that still have good life left in them. Growing up my Dad had dozens of great files and I took having them for granted. Now I wish I had taken better care of them. I still have a couple of good USA made Nicholson files, but I hesitate to use them much now until I can find one or two more. Another thing is that unless you buy a well made and expensive Swiss file or the like, any new file you buy now is a disposable tool, they will not last long with constant use.
 

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