Beeswax Mix?

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Smollett
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I have some beeswax cakes and want to apply the wax to various accoutrements and to the wood of my stocks. I am assuming one doesn't simply rub the cake into the object. Is there a historical and/or tried and true method of making some sort of beeswax concoction for application purposes?

Thanks Smollett
 
I really like a turpentine and beeswax mixture. Just heat it very carefully and stir. What you're left with is a semi-soft paste that I have found to be very water repellant. Just dab a bit on a rag and rub it in until it turns shiny and slick.
 
A double boiler would work perfectly, as would an electric hot plate, just nothing with an open flame- this stuff is pretty flammable when making it.
 
Sounds good to me. Is there a formula (ie how much wax, turpentine?)
 
Oh and, can I use the gum spirits turpentine from Home Depot?
 
there's a guy on awful-bay that sells a stock finish that's a 1 in 3 mix of 1 part beeswax, 1 part turpentine, 1 part boiled linseed oil. a couple people I know on another forum have used it & like it a lot. should be easy enough to make yer own.
 
Turpentine will dissolve bees wax but I am not comfortable heating it in the house. The fire hazard is just too great plus the odor is hard to get rid of. If you are not in a big hurry, you can shred the bees wax with a knife, put it into a container that you can seal up. Then pour in a small amount of turpentine. Let it sit for a couple of days. Put it into the sun if you have a place. After it sits, the turpentine will have softened the bees wax and all you need to do is stir it until it is a soft paste. If it is not the consistency that you want, just add turpentine to thin it or bees wax to thicken it.
 
That is a great idea. I too am a bit apprehensive about heating the stuff...and I'm sure my wife is. I'll shred up an ounce and see how it works.

Smollett
 
colorado clyde said:
Somebody's going to ask, so it might as well be me.
How does it work for bullet lube? :grin:

Dunno about all the turpentine stuff, but for years I blended olive oil and beeswax for lube. Just nuke and mix. It's been awhile, but in our climate I settled on a 3 parts beeswax to 1 olive oil, if I recall correctly. I prefer tallow-based lubes now, whether blending my own with deer tallow and either olive oil or bear oil, or simply using TOW's mink oil grease.

Back to the original question, I've been happy with the beeswax/olive oil mix for leather treatment.
 
Not really much of a formula to making it, I usually just keep adding turpentine until the end product is a little harder than johnsons paste wax. Not sure if gum turpentine will work, I would assume it would though. +1 on not doing this inside, the smell is pretty strong and it really lingers in the air.
 
stock finish that's a 1 in 3 mix of 1 part beeswax, 1 part turpentine, 1 part boiled linseed oil.
This is what I use and like it. Have used it on leather and metal too. I work with beeswax every day, so heating/melting isn't a problem. I've heated it on the stove too. Just go slow and lightly stir so one spot doesn't get too hot.
 
bubba.50 said:
there's a guy on awful-bay that sells a stock finish that's a 1 in 3 mix of 1 part beeswax, 1 part turpentine, 1 part boiled linseed oil. a couple people I know on another forum have used it & like it a lot. should be easy enough to make yer own.

It is easy to make on your own, particularly if you have a Micro Wave.

You have to use REAL Turpentine you can easily find at hardware stores and NOT "Turpenol" or other things. For the BLO, I strongly suggest you get the pure stuff with NO petroleum distillates. Ace Hardware has such BLO which is probably "stand oil" and excellent.

The formula is for volume measurements - one part each of the same measurement. A little goes a LONG way, so a useable quantity can be made from one Tablespoon each to do one to three stocks.

I suggest you buy a Pyrex glass 1 cup measuring cup, because it can be safely heated in a Microwave and can be used for measuring the turpentine and oil, if you want to make larger batches. Nuke ONLY the Tablespoon of Beeswax in this cup until it melts completely and skim off the dross or foreign contaminants. I found it was best to Nuke it for about 30 to 45 seconds at a time until the beeswax is completely melted. Then I normally pore the melted beeswax into a another container to use the cup to measure the other ingredients, but you can mix it all in the measuring cup. Add the Tablespoon of Turpentine and stir well, then add the Tablespoon of BLO and stir well. It will be goopy as far as consistency.

After about 6 months it can turn hard and be more difficult to use. Then you nuke it in the Microwave and add maybe a Teaspoon or a little more of Turpentine to get it soft again.

Gus
 
Ya know, I guess it's neat to try to do things like this beeswax/turpentine mix for a olde timey/historical manner. But the fact is we spend good money for guns and wood today and there are several excellent gun finishes available that are easy to use and proven.
I wouldn't smear that kind of glop on anything I've just spent hours refinishing let alone something I've spent weeks/months building.
I've seen the results of the guns done on that "other forum" and while the guy's recieve kudos form the folks there for doing such fine work in an old manner,, several of them end up over here months later seeking advise to get a good finish.

Sorry, but if someone has used this stuff several times on smaller less expensive projects, then maybe they'll get good results,, but too me it just doesn't make sense to "experiment" on a good guns finish.
Heck you can find Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil at just about any hardware store for $4-5 and get a great-proven gun finish.
 
That 1 in 3 mix off ebay is what i have used on 5 or 6 various stocks now and i have to say i love it once it is cured. Is the best "old timey" finish i've ever done and i'll use nothing else so long as i can buy or make it. Heat the stock up a bit and hand rub it in..takes a week or so to not be a bit sticky but once it cures its about perfect, imho.
 
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