Belgian Brown Bess repair

[4575wcf]

Butch's Gun Parts has a 3rd Model Brown Bess Hammer, Top Jaw, and Screw with a blank tumbler hole, and a frizzen that could probably be fitted to your lock. It looks close, but the frizzen is pictured in such a way as to be no help. Prices are right, I've never ordered from Butch though. Hope you bought the gun, it'll be a regular adventure and you can get support here on the forum for virtually anything you want to do. The frizzen comes unhardened (won't spark) til its heat treated.

 

[Aldarith]

Hey folks,
I have decided to forgo this one in lieu of finding one that is a replica of a period gun as opposed to a trade gun.
I don't mind a bit of work, but I think the combination of the type of rifle plus the condition it's in makes this somewhat undesireable to me.

I have been looking for an Enfield P53 or a more recognizable pattern of Bess for a long time and I don't mind waiting a little longer in order for one to fall into my price range.

Thanks again, I will post again when I find what I am looking for.

 

[4575wcf]

Okay sir it is your call. I never miss an opportunity to try and drag someone new into the fold. Working on guns is the most challenging hobby you will ever find, and there is an unlimited supply of subject guns at your pawn shops, and junk shops waiting to be discovered. I have spent my whole life working on one or the other, sometimes successfully, sometimes a learning experience. Just for fun here is an original Bess 3rd model which Butch's parts should fit.

 

[Aldarith]

The hobby already has me

I know beyond a shadow of doubt that it's one I want to pursue, I am just not certain I want to kick it off with this particular gun.

We have a military show yearly where I live during 'normal' times and there is always at least one Bess or three-band enfield kicking around.

 

[FlinterNick]

Dixie Gun Works has some older cast replacement parts for Belgian Guns. Chris Hersch of Antique Texas Gun Parts also casts a Belgian lock which might work because the casted parts that can be fitted.

http://www.texasguntrade.com/belgiantrademusket.htm

 

[4575wcf]

Right off the get go, you have three extra holes in the fizzen area of the lockplate to address. You drill them through, countersink them front and back, tap them, make pointed on both ends threaded unplated plugs, (you may skip the thread and give them a light press) and find a good TIG weld guy to weld them up. No coat hangers, finishing nail etc. fillers, you tell him to use good old mild steel genuine TIG rod. It does not take much paint or plating to ruin the weld. About an hour of his time will do it. The Community College weld shops can be a good place to check.

 

[nhmoose]

What was the price of the gun is about please.

 

[Aldarith]

It was $250 Canadian, sold before I could reconsider it. Seller still have 3 others in varying states of being cobbled together for 500+

 

[4575wcf]

$250 was a pretty decent price. You would put much more into it before you got it complete, but it is YOUR musket. What impresses me about these Belgian Muskets is the reports I am reading about people who have been shooting them for years. They were proofed apparently and are considered safe--the rest you can fix. The work involved in getting that one up to match the others would exceed $250 IMO.

 

[nhmoose]

Thank you for answering

 

[Aldarith]

$250 was a pretty decent price. You would put much more into it before you got it complete, but it is YOUR musket. What impresses me about these Belgian Muskets is the reports I am reading about people who have been shooting them for years. They were proofed apparently and are considered safe--the rest you can fix. The work involved in getting that one up to match the others would exceed $250 IMO.

Yeah, this was the reason I didnt jump -he has other working ones for sale for $500 which would be less than the non working one.

 

[4575wcf]

I do not think you are getting beat up too badly at $500. I do not know the exact exchange rate US to Canadian though. I paid $575 for my Japanese Charleyville twenty five or more years ago when Navy Arms closed them out. As I have pointed out in another post it was and still is an ongoing project. But it is MY musket. Can't believe these can bring up to $1000 now. I could almost scratch build a real one for that money.

 

[Aldarith]

Well he has two others. The one with the jewelled lock (Grize 1762, repro) and an unmarked lock.
The Grice lock is 500 but needs a mainspring and the unmarked is 650 and is ready to go.
The ' Grice ' marked musket has a small stable crack at the forend near the nosecap.

I am strongly strongly considering the unmarked one. Has a more historical stock shape.

Which would you go for?


Unmarked (650)

Grice Lock (500)

 

[4575wcf]

That Grice marked lock makes my palms sweat. The spring we can get.. I wonder if this is the second model Dixie used to sell that was "made in England^ As far as I know other than the Parker Hale Muskets no imports were made there. It is your musket though. You decide which one to buy and I will help you sort it out any way I can, and happy to do so.

 

[Aldarith]

Why do you like the Grice lock so much?


Is that the one you would get? If so, what is your thinking?

I notice the top jaw screw has been manhandled a bit as well so it leads me to think there may be a lot of abuse on it.
These muskets were used by Royal Nova Scotia Tattoo so they have been put through many shows, I think.

 

[4575wcf]

Well the engine turning on the back of the lockplate certainly is not original, but would slick the lock up. Not sure if the top jaw is correct with the cross hole, but probably a part that could be found. I think it is typical of a "show" gun which if used does not hurt it a bit. Abused is another thing. The Grice marking is VERY authentic and very cool. It speaks to me, but ask anybody who knows me, I am not like most other people.

 

[Mulebrain]

I would be looking to IMA for the lock or parts for this gun

 

[Aldarith]

Well the engine turning on the back of the lockplate certainly is not original, but would slick the lock up.

Abused is another thing.

So you think it has been 'worked' on (to make it more functional)?

As for abuse, I was just looking at that lock screw and the pan. The pan has that bit that looks melted and the jaw screw looks like someboy wrenched it with channel locks after it got stuck or something.

As a newbie I can't tell the difference between what just looks used and what looks abused in this case -what sense do you get from it?
Just worked in but not worked over?

 

[4575wcf]

Well, the notch in the pan could be gas cutting from the vent, but that takes a LOT of shooting. Probably the vent is enlarged as well if thus is true. The pan can be TIGed up--no worries there and a touch hole liner installed will straighten up the vent. The spring you can buy right off the shelf at Track of the Wolf. The hammer screw I am still digging for.

 

[4575wcf]

And yes--this lock has been tuned by someone who was after.performance without outward changes. That can be a good thing in a flintlick.