Bend the hammer or not?

[Goldhunter]

Need some advice. What's the best way to bend the hammer on my lock? I am replacing the stock on my TC Hawken and the hammer isn't lining up on the nipple very well. The hammer is really far back, to the point that the nipple is scraping that lip that comes down from the hammer (on the front of the hammer).

Or is there something else I should consider?

 

[Flintandsteel]

Goldhunter,

You day you are replacing the stock??? If everything else is lining up, like the barrel keys, that may be the answer.
I think you need to ask yourself however, why is that barrel that far forward.
Is it a direct replacement stock? If the keys do line up, and the lock is in place, something in the stock dimensions is off.

Can the barrel be moved toward the rear any??
Like I said, if everything else lines up, there is definitely something wrong with the dimensions of the stock.
Bending the cock to me would be the last resort.

 

[paulvallandigham]

To answer your question, you will need a good heat source to bend the hammer. If the hammer is as close as you say, then bending the arch of the hammer up and out is all that would need to be done. You will need to heat the arch until it is red hot, and then use either tongs or hammer to bend it out. The arch is behind the face of the hammer with that skirt that is rubbing. It is round, and extends in front of the vertical post that goes down to the bolster. The hammer cock, or spur, is on the backside of the post. You will have to do a little trial and error fitting, for such a small job would not warrant making a jig. But, with the help of a friend, you should be able to do it inside an hour. Once the hammer is bent to fit, You will have to cool the heated piece. Heat it back to red hot, and then douse it in oil. Motor oil works fine, but be prepared for flames, and have a lid to put over the container. Then clean the hammer, and put it on a baking sheet in the oven at 450 degrees for 2 hours to temper it, and then turn the oven off and let it cool slowly overnight. You can reinstall the hammer the next day.

Do test the hammer to see how the face of the hammer is actually striking the nipple. Use a napkin, or paper towel folded, over the nipple, cock and fire the hammer. If it is striking correctly, you will get a donut punch hole in your paper. If not, you get some portion of an arc. You will need to grind down the high parts of the hammer face until it is hitting a new nipple evenly all around the circle. Otherwise, the nipplel will be slowly bent on one side or another, and you will start having misfires until the cap has been formed to the worn nipple, before it finally goes off. Use some lipstick, or stock inletting black, or shoe polish, on the top edge of a new nipple and lower the hammer down onto the stuff to mark the high spots on the hammerface. Use a dremel tool with a small grinding bit to grind away the face that receives the marking dyes. Keep testing and grinding until you cut a round hole. You not only will insure good ignition, but long life to your nipples.

If you can, bend that hammer so that the nipple is equal distance from the skirt all around the neck of the nipple. That should center the nipple, and it makes it easier to grind that face so it hits the nipple square. Leave the skirt in tact. Its a major safety device to protect your eyes.

 

[Goldhunter]

I ordered a TC replacement stock from Pecatonica. It looks like the stock dimensions might be off alittle, as you suggested. I had to do only minor inleting in the breach area, so I don't think that I moved the barrel that far back.

I have to check again. I didn't get to work on it last night. I don't want to bend it unless I have to.

 

[flintlockmdj]

When making ajustments on an existing firearm I use the rule "what is the most expensive or hardest to replace". In your case I would bend the hammer first as this can be replaced easily and inexpensively as compared to a new stock.

Just my way of doing things.

 

[Zonie]

"...I had to do only minor inleting in the breach area, so I don't think that I moved the barrel that far back. .."
_____________________
I note that you said "...The hammer is really far back, to the point that the nipple is scraping that lip that comes down from the hammer (on the front of the hammer)..."

If the nipple is forward, relative to the hammer, it indicates the whole barrel is too far forward relative to the lock.
This is most likely caused by an insufficient amount of wood being removed at the breech.

Most, if not all of Pecatonica Rivers stocks have excess wood at the rear of the barrel channel.
A lot of people have bought the Pecatonica River Hawken stock thinking it is already finished to the original Hawken stock dimensions. It isn't.

This extra wood should be removed to allow the barrel to be positioned correctly to the lock.

I don't recall exactly how much wood I had to remove when I built my Pecatonica River Hawken stock rifle, but it was more than just cleaning up the fillet radius left by the barrel channel mill.

Zonie

 

[Goldhunter]

I was mistaken, it is actually hitting the back edge of the hammer, not the front. I am sure I didn't remove THAT much wood. Oh well, I learn something new on each gun I build. Glad I am making some of my mistakes on this and not on the Flintlock kit I plan on making over the winter.

 

[Zonie]

IMO, the Flintlock is easier.
The alignment of the cock and the touch hole is not critical. When you think about it, they don't even know one another exists .
zonie

 

[Goldhunter]

thanks all for the replys. :grin:

 

[Goldhunter]

Ok, bent it alittle and it lines up fairly well now, almost centered. After heating it I put in the vise and gave it a little squeeze. sure didn't take much.

After tempering in the over it now has a slight bluish color to it (which isn't that big a deal since the lock is originally color case hardened). thanks for all the advice. I'm on my way to finishing this thing. :thumbsup: