Bent lock plate

[HighUintas]

I am inletting my lock plate (chambers late ketland) and am maybe 0.005 from the bolster making contact with the barrel near the fence. There's about 0.009 to go at the front of the bolster.

As I've been inletting it, it has seemed like the tail if the lock plate has been higher in the wood even though the bolster near the back end (near fence) is closer to the barrel than the front. This has kept baffling me and couldn't figure it out with the measurements I'd been taking. My lock panel surface is all flat and level with the barrel, so I know it's not the wood.

I put a straight edge on my lock plate and it is bent. It appears the tail of the lock plate is kicked out about 0.010-0.015.

Will bending the lock plate straight screw up the function of the internal parts?

 

[Phil Coffins]

You can refit the internal parts if needed, I’d flatten the plate.

 

[HighUintas]

Well, someone can refit the internal parts hopefully it doesn't cause any issues.

I swear I checked the flatness after I polished it and it was flat. Then again, I'm tired enough that my memory is probably not correct and I forgot to check it.

 

[SDSmlf]

I put a straight edge on my lock plate and it is bent. It appears the tail of the lock plate is kicked out about 0.010-0.015.

Will bending the lock plate straight screw up the function of the internal parts?

Has it already been case hardened? I try and have them straight before case hardening, but sometimes have to tweak them a bit afterwards.

 

[HighUintas]

Has it already been case hardened? I try and have them straight before case hardening, but sometimes have to tweak them a bit afterwards.

Not case hardened. Only polished. I doubt it will be case hardened as I don't currently have the means to do that. I plan to cold blue and rub it back some to a gray

 

[dave_person]

Hi HU,
Sometimes the castings get a little distorted during the casting process. No worries, just heat the plate red hot and straighten it. You won't have any problems with the internals because the bend most likely is just in the thinner tail.

dave

 

[Vaino]

The one and only badly bent lockplate from Chambers was sent back to him and he must have replaced it..... It was bent over 1/16". Most lockplates have a small amount of bend and those I do straighten.....Fred

 

[HighUintas]

Thanks everyone. I got it bent straight last night just fine and did a little more inletting. It straightened everything up nicely!

I used my shop press and used an oak dowel between the press ram and plate right at the point of the bend with each end of the lock plate supported. I applied pressure until I could see a very slight deflection in the direction I wanted to go and check fit. It took a few times being careful to not go too far, but I ended up getting it very straight.

 

[HighUintas]

I decided to reassemble my lock today (partway) while sitting in front of the **** tube with my family and found that the bridle is out of square with the lock plate when I tighten the bridle screw fully. Not real tight, but snug. I also notice that the tumbler drags a lot more because it's being pushed out of square by the bridle.

I believe the bridle was square with the plate prior to bending my plate straight, which makes sense.

I've searched a bit and found that a few folks say you might have to back the bridle screw off a bit to prevent tumbler binding, and it's common on almost all locks.

How much does this matter? Should the tumbler turn completely freely seemingly without friction?

I think I might be able to alleviate the issue if I make a really thin steel spacer to go between the lock plate and bridle where the bridle screw goes in. Then the bridle would sit squarely and I'd be able to have the screw snug or tight without the bridle bearing down on the tumbler so much.