best metal for knife blades

[jrbaker90]

I am wanting to get into knife making and I am wanting to know what is the best metal to use I have looked at some metal at home depot but I not sure if its right I know one blackSmith uses old table saw blades what would work as good or better thanks

 

[Black Hand]

You need a high carbon steel. It is likely that what to saw at the store was low carbon and would not make a good knife.

Wick (a member here) will have far better insights on the topic.

 

[jrbaker90]

It seams like it said carbon steel on it ill look when I'm there again. ill talk to a guy at a weld shop I know and see what he says. I made my first on from a old cross cut saw blade

 

[newtewsmoke]

files are good

 

[Black Hand]

It seams like it said carbon steel on it ill look when I'm there again. ill talk to a guy at a weld shop I know and see what he says. I made my first on from a old cross cut saw blade

Yes, all steel has carbon in it, but you need a higher carbon content for it to harden properly.

Files are good, but not all files. Apparently, some of the newer files are case-hardened. I've use band-saw blades, circular saw blades, carpenter saw blades, planer blades and files to make knives.

 

[LaBonte]

For a simple and very good high carbon steel to use for knives get some plain steel in the 1070 to 1084 class. This is one of the simplest steels to learn on especially for a good simple heat treat - a plus this class is the closest modern steel to period steels that is commercially available, based on several tests done on period steels of the pre-1860 era.
IMO one for the best sources for good knife steel is here: http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/shop/product-category/high-carbon-steel/

While good files like Nicholson or Black Diamond brands files can be used they are generally made of 1095 or W1/W2 which are much more difficult to get a GOOD heat treat with just basic home equipment and IMO is best left to those with the proper equipment and experience.
Scrap steel of varying types such as auto springs, plow discs, etc can be a good source for blades, but once again it's best left to those with the experience in using unknown steels.
At this point using a good commercial steel like 1084 (after 50 years making knives it's still my favorite) will make the learning curve MUCH easier...
Here's the basics for heat treating 1084: http://usaknifemaker.com/metals-c-...-c-93-35/heat-treat-information-data-faq.html

The cheap low carbon steel from the big box stress though can be used for grinding/shaping practice and is much less expensive - it can also be used for various fittings such as cross guards.

 

[jrbaker90]

I forgot to mention that I will have a for heating how Is the new the new table saw blades thanks

 

[lonehunter]

For a simple and very good high carbon steel to use for knives get some plain steel in the 1070 to 1084 class. This is one of the simplest steels to learn on especially for a good simple heat treat - a plus this class is the closest modern steel to period steels that is commercially available, based on several tests done on period steels of the pre-1860 era.
IMO one for the best sources for good knife steel is here: http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/shop/product-category/high-carbon-steel/

While good files like Nicholson or Black Diamond brands files can be used they are generally made of 1095 or W1/W2 which are much more difficult to get a GOOD heat treat with just basic home equipment and IMO is best left to those with the proper equipment and experience.
Scrap steel of varying types such as auto springs, plow discs, etc can be a good source for blades, but once again it's best left to those with the experience in using unknown steels.
At this point using a good commercial steel like 1084 (after 50 years making knives it's still my favorite) will make the learning curve MUCH easier...
Here's the basics for heat treating 1084: http://usaknifemaker.com/metals-c-...-c-93-35/heat-treat-information-data-faq.html

The cheap low carbon steel from the big box stress though can be used for grinding/shaping practice and is much less expensive - it can also be used for various fittings such as cross guards.

Sound advise above.

 

[jrbaker90]

I have a book from jantz they have some 1095 hi carbon for 18.95 for 18"

 

[longrifle78]

Check with Admiral steel. they have 1075, 3/16'' x 1 1/4'' at $13.44 for a 60'' piece. Iv ordered several times with them and have always been happy with the service.

 

[wmaser]

Automobile springs, leaf or coil, make fine blades. Easy to harden and temper and they will hold an edge.

 

[AWsaddles]

A friend I work with is a knife maker and most of the knives he makes are made from D2. I have several of his knives and have been very impressed. He said it is a high carbon steel with a high chromium content so it is less likely to rust but it is not really a stainless. He also uses 1095 steel and O1 but prefers D2 for its toughness. I guess it can be a little more brittle and harder to work with but mine hold an edge very well.

 

[ZUG]

Also Texas Knifemakers Supply has steel and other knife making stuff. D2 makes a tough knife and holds an edge very well when harden & tempered correctly but it is difficult to grind and you will go through a LOT of abrasive belts - you are using a abrasive belt grinding machine to grind the steel with aren't you? Buy the 1084 carbon steel it does a good job and is one of the easy knife steels to harden & temper.

 

[LRB]

What LaBonte said. Someone mentioned 1095, which is a very excellent knife steel, BUT only if you know how to heat treat it properly, AND have the right stuff to do it with. Otherwise 1084 may easily out perform it. As for vehicle springs, coil or leaf, they are made from many different alloys, and heat treat may and often does vary for them, and they are also prone to have micro cracks from fatigue. The 10XX steels LaBonte recommended are as close as you can get to being fool proof in heat treating with simple equipment and methods, and will make a fine blade. The box stores do not sell high carbon steel, except for tools.

 

[jrbaker90]

I don't even have a belt grinder I was planing on uses my angle grinder. I had two old leaf springs but I scarped them ill look at a local scrap yard I know see if he has anything interesting he'll give me stuff all the time if he don't have one ill buddy of mine thanks

 

[Black Hand]

I don't even have a belt grinder I was planing on uses my angle grinder.

At minimum, you will need some sort of belt grinder. The best you can do with an angle grinder is establish the crude shape. Fine/precision work just isn't possible. It would be like trying to drive a 23ga pin nail into a project with a 10lb sledge hammer swung with full force...

 

[jrbaker90]

Would a good belt wander work I had a 1"x24" that would grind as good as my angle grinder I just had to take my time with it

 

[LRB]

A friend I work with is a knife maker and most of the knives he makes are made from D2. I have several of his knives and have been very impressed. He said it is a high carbon steel with a high chromium content so it is less likely to rust but it is not really a stainless. He also uses 1095 steel and O1 but prefers D2 for its toughness. I guess it can be a little more brittle and harder to work with but mine hold an edge very well.

All those steels you mention are great knife steels. However, all are also way beyond his ability to heat treat. I don't really know what he wants. He asked about the best knife steel. I assume he mean't for him to work with. At least five of us with experience have told him, but he now wants to dig around in a scrap yard for a piece of mystery steel that may or may not work. I give up. He can find out for himself, as I, and many others have. Who knows? He may get lucky.

 

[jrbaker90]

What I was talking about goin to a scrap yard for was leaf spring. I am going to have a forge before I ever start making actually that why I want to start making knives is because I will have a forge

 

[crockett]

I'm not sure what you want to do- whether you have a forge or not. It sounds like you want to do the stock removal system to create a blade.
There are TWO different ways to approach this based on heat treatment- whether you will do that yourself and have someone else do it for you. The traditional steels like 01 are treated in a quench and then tempered- you can do that yourself but if someone does it for you the cost will be around $50 more or less. Doing it yourself requires some skill.
If you plan on having someone else do the heat treatment- Texas Knifemaker's Supply will treat AIR QUENCHABLE steel like 440C, D2, etc for only about $7 plus shipping- a much better deal. So, the choice of steel may depend on what you will do about the heat treatment.
I made some knives from files, springs, machettes, etc. I think every knife maker has at some point but your time and effort ought to be worth something and the price of known steel really is a minor cost of the entire project (handle material, guards, solder, epoxy glues, leather for the sheath). Now a days I always buy regular cutlery grade barstock, 440c, D2, 01 sometimes.