Black powder cleaning

[Horace]

I am relatively new here and have a question for you experienced black powder guys. I see all kind of ways to clean BP but the predominate way seems to be the old flush the barrel with hot water trick, which works good on hooked breeches but not on pinned stocks. What is wrong with using a BP solvent of your choice and cleaning it well. I have tried both methods and the solvent seems to be less messy and the wife likes it better (her kitchen you know), plus I get to enjoy the sweet smell of BP a little longer. Give me pros and cons please

 

[Liver eatin’ Johnson]

BP solvent such as Hoppes #9 Plus works great to clean both the inside and outside of you gun. I use it all the time at the range and out hunting. The problem is the bit of fouling that gets trapped where your patches can't quite reach and which will continue to rust. The only way to get to that is to flush it completely with hot soapy water, then after drying, applying a good water displacing oil treatment. You didn't mention if your rifle is a flinter or caplock. Here are some links to previous discussions on cleaning pinned barrels.

click here

and here

 

[Ridge]

I have always used plain tap water to clean my black powder rifles. I fill the barrel (toothpick for the touch hole) and swish it around, pour it out and repeat until the water comes out fairly clean. Then I attack it with patches.

My reasoning is simple.....water is free. Solvent costs money.

When the barrel is clean and dry I coat it with a combo of olive oil and bees wax. I've never had a problem with rust.

 

[Halftail]

Hot Soapy water is the only thing I have found to really get er clean.I have plugged the touch hole and I also have used a flush tube screwed right in where the nipple goes.The various solvents I have tried never quite seemed to compare to the Hot water. :imo:

 

[roundball]

Hot Soapy water is the only thing I have found to really get er clean.I have plugged the touch hole and I also have used a flush tube screwed right in where the nipple goes.The various solvents I have tried never quite seemed to compare to the Hot water. :imo:

:agree:...IMO, there's nothing like it...and one of the benefits of hooked breech barrels...I just plunge the breech end half of the barrel in a big 5 gallon bucket of steaming hot soapy water and let it sit for 15 minutes before I clean it

 

[vradin]

Hot Soapy water is the only thing I have found to really get er clean.

IMO, there's nothing like it...and one of the benefits of hooked breech barrels...I just plunge the breech end half of the barrel in a big 5 gallon bucket of steaming hot soapy water and let it sit for 15 minutes before I clean it

A few months ago I would have disagreed with this, being a firm and staunch believer in solvents, srubbers, sprays, and other chemical nastiness. This summer I tried a generic brand of Murphy's Oil Soap in hot water. Soaked the barrel for 10-15 minutes, and it worked perfectly without anything harsher than the sweat dripping off my forehead. About 5 or 8 patches per barrel until it flushed clear, then a rinse in hot water and some lube. Not a trace of goo or rust or anything else.

I'm a convert. The only time I use the chemicals now is on pre-soaked patches for a quick-clean before getting to a place with hot water.

vic

 

[flashpanner]

We should take a poll on what is everyone's favorite cleaning method and solutions. Could even open a new forum called "Hints from Heloise" :kid:

 

I, too, am a Murphy's man, Murphy Oil Soap. No, not the Lincoln County War. :: Down Brushy Bob! :relax: I, also, on occasion, run a 1.25"x1.25" square of Scrounge pad down the barrel. I follow that up with scalding hot water, a couple of clean thick cotton patches and finish up with Bore Butter. You will want to wear cotton gloves if you follow my example. The Barrel gets quite hot and helps to evaporate the water. Though it looks like I'm becoming a Stumpy's Moose Snot convert. All Hail the Stumpkiller! :master: :master: :applause:

 

[Stumpkiller]

I see all kind of ways to clean BP but the predominate way seems to be the old flush the barrel with hot water trick, which works good on hooked breeches but not on pinned stocks.

Works fine with pinned barrels, too. You just have to be a little more careful. Plug the vent and fill the bore. Pour it out. Repeat. Unplug the vent. Pour a half oz. of hot water in and force it out through the vent to blow the crud at the breech out. Repeat. Lay the gun on towels with the muzzle below the vent (I sit on the back steps) and run wet patches up the bore until they come out clean. Wipe with alcohol to chase out the water. Wipe with B.C. Sheath after letting it dry a bit. Then, wipe with Moose Snot. Wipe the breech and lock mortise with a towel to dry and wipe well with Sheath.

This way has the advantage that the hot soapy water is always clean, not sucked back in dirty. If you can't get hot water, use moose milk.

 

[Horace]

I guess what I am lacking is a basic understanding of anatomy. There is an area I will call the fire chamber which you cannot get to with normal cleaning methods. It must be flushed. But that leads to another question, what about rust in this area. The only way the get to it is to remove the liner each time to oil or use liquid lubricant which come down from the upper part. OK, ignorance abounds, but I will stay that way unless i ask.

 

[Halftail]

After cleaning I throughly lube my Barrell right from the Muzzle right on down to the breach with a Lube of my Choice(Ballistol works for me)
I soak a cleaning patch with the oil and ram it home with my ramrod that has a proper sized jag screwed on the end.A couple of those patches along with a good generous spray of Ballistol down the muzzle and I'm good to go untill next time.

 

[longshot47]

LEJ-
Well said/appreciate the research; good post.
Thanx......Longshot :thumbsup:

 

[MikeChapin]

Mule Skinner, as you noticed cleaning methods are like noses. Everyone has their own. The one thing they do have in common, at least from this bunch, is that they all work. They found a method they like that does the job and have stuck with it.

Myself, I have used flushing, Hoppe's #9, Moose Milk and a bunch of other things. Now I use TOW's Bore Solvent cut 50-50 with water to clean the bore. It takes from 5 to 8 patches to do this. I follow this with a couple of patches of a Balistol and water solution to cut the surfactant and pick up anything the Bore Solvent won't pick up. A couple of dry patches to dry it out and then a patch soaked in Balistol to oil the barrel. I used to use 10 weight motor oil but it has a tendency to goo the barrel when you are shooting. Balistol does not have this problem.

The only variation is on the two rifles that have patent breeches. I use a looped patch thingy for a 22 to clean and lube the firing chamber for those rifles.

I have two rifles that are over 25 years old that still have nice bright bores so my system works. I'm sure the other old timers here can say the same about their methods.

Pick whatever method that does the job and suits you best.

 

[Horace]

I think that you have answered my question. Is what I am referring to as the firing chamber a patent breech and obviously some guns do not have this (what is this called)?

Thanks

 

[Stumpkiller]

There is an area I will call the fire chamber which you cannot get to with normal cleaning methods. It must be flushed. But that leads to another question, what about rust in this area.

If you have a properly fit breech it is well sealed and water will not penetrate the threads. If you remove it, you loosen it, and future leakage is a possibility.

I clean my gun with hot (recently boiling) water, Up-ended muzzle-down on a newspaper to let it drain for 15 minutes or so, wipe with alcohol to evaporate any residual water, and then oil it with a penetrating oil like Rem-Oil or Sheath.

I only ever removed one breechplug since 1976, and that was to remove a stuck brush. If the gun is properly made there is a shoulder ahead of the threads that seals the breech water-tight.

T/C used to sell a jag that matched the shape of their patent breech. If you use tow or a bore mop it will take the shape of the breech cavity. You can also drop in a loose patch and chase it around on the breech face with a helix patch worm.

 

I use plain water rinse, followed by a dose of Lehigh Valley Lube, but murphy's oil soap-based homemade stuff works as well. For a pinned stock longrifle (all I own), I plug the venthole with a toothpick or cap the nipple with a piece of thick leather, pour the water down the barrel from a cup or small pitcher with a pour spout, keeping a rag around the muzzle for spills. Let stand for a couple minutes and decant. Repeat. Dry bore with patches. Wipe off excess/leaks with rag...then I pour a little LVL into bore and work it up/down with the ramrod/patch. Dry out with patches...works for me and greatly simplifies and speeds cleaning.

 

[MikeChapin]

A patent breech has a firing/ignition chamber built into it. This is a recessed area in the breech plug itself, holds 10 - 15 grains of powder. It is supposed to improve ignition but I have seen no difference between ignition time with a patent breech as opposed to a flat breech plug. A flat breech plug just fits flat against the base of the barrel.

My newest creation is a Hawken flinter with a hooked breech and has a patent breech as does my Sante Fe. The Sante Fe has a cleanout screw on the offside from the snail that makes cleaning the firing chamber a little easier.