Black Powder fouling in 54

[oldhunter1954]

I have a 54 caliber and need to swab the barrel between every shot. Most of the time it takes 2 cleaning patches. I am using 80 grains of GOEX 2F with .530 round ball and 0.018 lubed ticking patch. The time that I did not swap the barrel the ball got stuck about 5 inches in and I had to use a ball puller to get it out. One of the guys at the range yesterday told me that Swiss 2F does not foul the barrel at all ?

 

[Grimord]

How does your ball and patch go down the barrel? It could be you need a tighter combo of patch and ball, or a different lube. You might also try loading with 3f.

 

[Ames]

My first thought is what lube is it? Second thought is you need a thinner patch.
If I have a gun that needs swabbing after 2 or three shots, and I forget, it may get stuck just above the charge near the crud ring. Not 5" in.

 

[tenngun]

I was thinking similar you might need a .527, or .10 to ..15 patch. Or a more liquid lube like moose milk

 

[oldhunter1954]

This is my very first flintlock. I purchased store bought lubed patches in 0.018 and 0.020. It feels like the ball loads pretty easy. I can try the thicker patch. If the ball and patch combo it not tight enough then there is more fouling ? Does this mean all the powder is not burning off. Should I test with 60 grains of 2F ? I can make moose milk if you guys think I should add a small amount to my store bought patches.

 

[nit wit]

I would use .15 Patch and spit! When you load you want that patch dripping with spit. This will solve your problem.
Nit Wit

 

[Eric Krewson]

You can load all day with Hoppes #9 B/P solvent and patch lube, each patch cleans the bore for the next shot.

Some say it is not a good idea to leave a gun loaded for an extended period of time with this patch lube because you might get a rust ring.

 

[Art Caputo]

Try a thinner patch(.010” or .015”) and TOTW Mink oil lube.

 

[Timber Wolf]

What gun/barrel do you have? I too have experienced a ball loading issue about 5” down but can’t remember which of my guns I had that issue with. When I encountered the added resistance I pushed harder on the ball forcing it on down and fired it out. Is this a brand new gun/barrel? Maybe a rough spot in the rifling?

 

[oldhunter1954]

Kibler Colonial kit in 54 caliber. Yesterday was the first time out at the gun range. i think the barrel is from green Mountain ?

 

[oldhunter1954]

FYI, when the barrel is clean the ball loads easy all the way along the barrel.

 

[Ames]

First, throw out any of those store bought pre lubed patches. Pre cut are fine. Pre lubed are evil. You cant control how much they hold or what they hold or how old they are. Buy pre cuts for now for the ease of it, and follow with your own lube a hand full at a time as needed. BTW, my preference is spit patches as well.
That 5" bothers my feeble brain. Did you buy the gun used? Can you push the ball and patch in without a short starter? In other words, did the previous owner cone the barrel? If so, its always going to be tighter beyond the cone.

 

[Flintandsteel]

You do NOT need thinner patches. A build up of fouling is caused by not wiping out the fouling when loading.
You didn’t mention lube, or the gun were talking about.
I NEVER have to run a cleaning patch in any of my rifles, from .32 to .62.
A ball of .005 under bore size, and a patch able to fill the grooves in the rifling, ( in Rice barrels I use .020” patches, wet with liquid lube. Shoot all day long, clean when you’re done.
Hope this helps.
have you looked at your spent patches? They will tell the story.

 

[Pete G]

One of the guys at the range yesterday told me that Swiss 2F does not foul the barrel at all ?

He's wrong.

 

[smoothshooter]

I have a 54 caliber and need to swab the barrel between every shot. Most of the time it takes 2 cleaning patches. I am using 80 grains of GOEX 2F with .530 round ball and 0.018 lubed ticking patch. The time that I did not swap the barrel the ball got stuck about 5 inches in and I had to use a ball puller to get it out. One of the guys at the range yesterday told me that Swiss 2F does not foul the barrel at all ?

I have always had the best results with a thicker patch that holds more lube.
Ditch the Bore Butter If that is what you are using.

 

[smoothshooter]

I would use .15 Patch and spit! When you load you want that patch dripping with spit. This will solve your problem.
Nit Wit

Spit works great, but is only to be used if you are going to fire within 2 or 3 minutes.
Ambient air temperature and a warm barrel will evaporate the spit in short order if you wait too long to fire.

 

[smoothshooter]

He's wrong.

He's wrong.

Very wrong.

 

[Tallperson]

I have a 54 caliber and need to swab the barrel between every shot. Most of the time it takes 2 cleaning patches. I am using 80 grains of GOEX 2F with .530 round ball and 0.018 lubed ticking patch. The time that I did not swap the barrel the ball got stuck about 5 inches in and I had to use a ball puller to get it out. One of the guys at the range yesterday told me that Swiss 2F does not foul the barrel at all ?

I use 3f in all my front stuffers including my 54s. I’ve shot entire matches with out swabbing the barrel. .530 ball .015 patch 110 grains 3f.

Spit works great, but is only to be used if you are going to fire within 2 or 3 minutes.
Ambient air temperature and a warm barrel will evaporate the spit in short order if you wait too long to fire.

I’ve used spit patch and lubed. Never had any issues in my rifles.

 

[tenngun]

This is my very first flintlock. I purchased store bought lubed patches in 0.018 and 0.020. It feels like the ball loads pretty easy. I can try the thicker patch. If the ball and patch combo it not tight enough then there is more fouling ? Does this mean all the powder is not burning off. Should I test with 60 grains of 2F ? I can make moose milk if you guys think I should add a small amount to my store bought patches.

It’s a combo. A tight fit will have to fight the little thicking, of even one shot. About half the weight of burned powder is left as your greasy fouling. Part of the ash is blown out and part is left on your barrel sides.
Spit works good as it moistens and pushing the fouling down.
I like a grease. Lard or mink oil, but that does little to moisten and move the fouling aside.
A moist lube like moose milk works similar to spit.
A looser fit won’t get as tight as the barrel fouls.
I like to swab between shots anyway

 

[SDSmlf]

Kibler Colonial kit in 54 caliber. Yesterday was the first time out at the gun range. i think the barrel is from green Mountain ?

I have found some Green Mountain barrels need some breaking in or polishing before they load and shoot easily. To speed things up I would suggest cleaning the bore with something like Scoth-Brite. It won’t hurt anything and stands a good chance of helping. Mike Bellevue (@duelist1954) has a good video out showing his version of the process. I have used a similar method for some time, but Mike explains his very well. I started doing it after speaking to Don Getz (Getz Barrel) years ago before he passed, and he recommended using the green (600 grit) Scotch-Brite for smoothing up barrels that were cutting patches. Said it wouldn’t hurt the barrel.