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Blueing or Browning

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Well, lots of great info. Looks like I will go with the "Brown" . I already have it ordered, & on it's way. Just seems to appeal to me more. Since this is going to be a hunting rifle & not a display piece , color, blue or brown is , as I see it , up to the individual taste. Doesn't seem like either one is wrong. Gaining ground on finishing this rifle. Maybe another week . Doing a couple hrs of work a day. A little more metal work ( 400 grit W&D paper ) . Will be worth all the effort when completed.
 
I'm working on a Lyman Great Plains 54 cal percussion rifle kit. After looking on line I see the finished rifle from Lyman comes blued. I have some browning liquid ordered & coming. This rifle is strictly to be a hunting rifle.. Will browning in any way detract from the overall appeal or value of the finished rifle?
I have done a few of them. All browned very dark, because I like it better than the blue. Your choice always.
 
I saw where someone browned the barrel and used blue for the last coat, that made a nice looking finish. Might have been on this forum.
 
De Witt Bailey in his book "British Military Rifles 1740-1840 " mentions an order of Trade rifles with browned barrels and bright blue polished furniture . Both browning and bluing are forms of controlled oxidization , rusting , of ferrous metals . The old gunmakers found that these finishes looked nice and reduced the chance of random rusting and spotting as long as they were kept oiled . If browning was just the formation of rust over time , an awful lot of firearms rusted evenly without pitting .
 
All metal parts polished & ready for browning. What a job. My first kit. I understand why a finished rifle is so much more than a kit. All hand done, no power equipment used. Almost there . A new unfired Lyman Great Plains 54cal percussion. Final sanding & a couple more coats of finish on the stock will have to wait for warmer weather.
 

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I think modern manufacturers got away from browning and have gone mostly to blueing because the process lends itself better to faster and more mass production, and a more easily controlled process. It is also less labor intensive (by modern methods). Browning remains pretty much a custom deal. You're making a custom gun. Stay with a finish that is consistent with that.

Of course there IS a bluing process (rust bluing and high polish) that is more labor intensive than modern salt bluing methods, but most modern manufacturers don't do that.
 
Well, lots of great info. Looks like I will go with the "Brown" . I already have it ordered, & on it's way. Just seems to appeal to me more. Since this is going to be a hunting rifle & not a display piece , color, blue or brown is , as I see it , up to the individual taste. Doesn't seem like either one is wrong. Gaining ground on finishing this rifle. Maybe another week . Doing a couple hrs of work a day. A little more metal work ( 400 grit W&D paper ) . Will be worth all the effort when completed.
Nice thing about browning is you can turn it blue, if you change your mind, by simply boiling it in distilled water. Can't do it the other way, though.
 
Looking great! I think you made an excellent choice going with browning, especially with a Lyman GPR. That's a descent production gun, and my only flintlock rifle at the moment. I haven't seen one with browned metal, so in terms of resale, I think it'll be an attractive selling point.
 
Modern rifle barrels are blued inside and out , don't know about ML ones but the other kind are . The NZ police had Rem Mod 7's in 223 , we got a barrel taken off a training rifle which had burnt its throat out for 2" after firing over 60000 rounds , and cut it in half lengthways . To our great surprise the barrel still had blue in the grooves on the non driving side where the bullet hardly touches the rifling .
 
Hi,
Yes, it has a gold lined pan. It is from the 1780s. The barrel is a classic stub twist and was refinished by Peter Mazur, one of the best firearm metal restorers in the world.

dave
 
I'm working on a Lyman Great Plains 54 cal percussion rifle kit. After looking on line I see the finished rifle from Lyman comes blued. I have some browning liquid ordered & coming. This rifle is strictly to be a hunting rifle.. Will browning in any way detract from the overall appeal or value of the finished rifle?

Yes, their bluing is a modern process and looks different from the bluing that would have been on the originals...but the gun looks different too so do as you will. I brown with clorox. so easy.

concerning 18th and 19th century barrels:
You'll have to do research if you want more than a thumbnail. Most guns if not left in the white as did the military in the 18th century (they actually used brick dust to polish to bare steel) were blued. It was not the bluing we are familiar with, but the appearance can be duplicated approximately by using Casey's cold bluing solution. I do this. Prep the barrel with 000 steel wool. degrease. then degrease again with denatured alcohol. then degrease yet again with acetone. Apply Casey's with 000 steel wool and do it very quickly and evenly. It only approximates salts bluing and the stuff stinks... always stinks even years later.

Ideally, you would want salts bluing but is an extended process......I have never had the resources or time to try it.

I've got two rifles to construct now. I'm going to use the Brownells Salts Bluing on them. I'm told it gives a more authentic looking blued barrel like the date range of my rifles (1770-1790)

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ng-salts/nitreblue-bluing-salts-prod1105.aspx
From their sales page:
The process is really quite simple: Heat the salts up to 570° F. - 650° F. (they are NOT dissolved in water, they're used straight). Dip the parts in, watch for the color change. Lower temperatures give a "straw" color like the older Luger parts. As an added bonus, the salts can be used for the drawing operation when heat-treating springs and parts.

Yea, Browning is so much easier, and much much cheaper at a buck or one green frog skin for a bottle of Clorox bleach.
 
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Yes, their bluing is a modern process and looks different from the bluing that would have been on the originals...but the gun looks different too so do as you will. I brown with clorox. so easy.

concerning 18th and 19th century barrels:
You'll have to do research if you want more than a thumbnail. Most guns if not left in the white as did the military in the 18th century (they actually used brick dust to polish to bare steel) were blued. It was not the bluing we are familiar with, but the appearance can be duplicated approximately by using Casey's cold bluing solution. I do this. Prep the barrel with 000 steel wool. degrease. then degrease again with denatured alcohol. then degrease yet again with acetone. Apply Casey's with 000 steel wool and do it very quickly and evenly. It only approximates salts bluing and the stuff stinks... always stinks even years later.

Ideally, you would want salts bluing but is an extended process......I have never had the resources or time to try it.

I've got two rifles to construct now. I'm going to use the Brownells Salts Bluing on them. I'm told it gives a more authentic looking blued barrel like the date range of my rifles (1770-1790)

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ng-salts/nitreblue-bluing-salts-prod1105.aspx
From their sales page:
The process is really quite simple: Heat the salts up to 570° F. - 650° F. (they are NOT dissolved in water, they're used straight). Dip the parts in, watch for the color change. Lower temperatures give a "straw" color like the older Luger parts. As an added bonus, the salts can be used for the drawing operation when heat-treating springs and parts.

Yea, Browning is so much easier, and much much cheaper at a buck or one green frog skin for a bottle of Clorox bleach.
Would the Casey’s cold blue method you describe result in something like the finish on these rifles? The photos are of a set of four Hawken rifles that will be at the Hawken event near St Louis. The description says the barrels are rust blued, but they remind me of an old Marlin 336 that I cold-blued in the late 70s.
 

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Finished my Lyman Great Plains 54 cal kit today. I realize there is a difference of like & dislikes when it comes to the finish color. My rifle is strictly a hunting rifle. For me I injoy the brown. If I ever change my mind I guess I can blue it.
Hawken 54 001.JPG
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