bluing double barrel flint if already browned?

[Joe Defreece]

i have a india made double flint and they come polished bright, and turkey season is coming and i have no boiling tank. can i brown it now and blue it later.

 

[The Appalachian]

Doubles are cold rust blued.

A hot tank will melt the solder and you will have two single barrels.......

 

[Sam squanch]

Hit it with spray paint and clean it after turkey season.

 

[IanH]

Hot water blue it. Might I recommend Mark Lee Express Blue #1 and a piece of aluminum gutter with ends riveted and silicone sealed in place for a boiling tank. If the solder melts at 200 degrees F. then it wasn't any good to begin with. Hot caustic bluing is MUCH hotter than boiling water and WILL de-solder the barrels.

If you're in a hurry, Squanch's recommendation to shoot it with some cheap paint (I'd use a flat black, dust on a couple of very, very light coats) is definitely a good temporary solution.

 

[oldwood]

I just blued a crusty rusty TC M/L barrel and lock with Brownell's Oxpho Blue Cream. This was amazing and beyond simple. Used a fine wire wheel mounted on a stand grinder motor , and wire wheeled all the rusty parts clean and bright. Ran the wheel long ways with the barrel flats , wear cotton gloves to keep the parts uncorrupted by skin oil , etc. Applied the Oxpho Blue compound with a " pledgette" , (Rag on the end a stick). Coat the parts a couple times w/o regard to any special process , except for just apply the compound. Wipe off with a clean rag , and admire the work. If the blued steel looks slightly hazy , mine did , go over the steel with clean 0000 steel wool. Next barrel I do , I might go over it with 600 or 800 grit auto body paper , before applying the Oxpho.

 

[IanH]

Oxpho blue paste makes a pretty good finish but it will rub off eventually. I recommend a hair dryer or heat gun to get the metal just about too hot to hold and rub the paste in with 6-O steel wool and little buffing motions to prevent streaking. It touches up instantly and easily if you just degrease the worn or scratched area first so it's easy to maintain if not super-durable. I like to recommend the Mark Lee product because it makes a really nice, durable, fast rust blue that's a foot deep and is "real" bluing that will last.....and anyone with a heat source and an afternoon can blue a barrel.

This one was onlu draw filed with a fairly coarse file so as to leave the marks after bluing and not be extremely reflective.

 

[R Ellis]

I have to be the one to say brown it and leave it brown

 

[SDSmlf]

Doubles are cold rust blued.

A hot tank will melt the solder and you will have two single barrels.......

If boiling water melts ‘solder’ there are some real manufacturing issues.

As others suggested, cold blue for turkey season, then research rust bluing for later after turkey season project. Look into steam or even just pouring boiling water over the barrel to rust blue it. You don’t need boiling tanks.

 

[The Appalachian]

If boiling water melts ‘solder’ there are some real manufacturing issues.

As others suggested, cold blue for turkey season, then research rust bluing for later after turkey season project. Look into steam or even just pouring boiling water over the barrel to rust blue it. You don’t need boiling tanks.

I was talking about hot tank caustic salt bluing, and that WILL melt solder.

 

[Joe Defreece]

Doubles are cold rust blued.

A hot tank will melt the solder and you will have two single barrels.......

I have no interest in getting the barrel hotter than 200°F, but will a barrel boil blue after it has been finished brown.