Bore Polishing

[Henry Miles]

What works best for polishing a rough bore and how is the best way to accomplish this task? The bore is not terrible, just needs deep cleaned and smoothed up. I saw a response the other day from IdahoLewis but can't seem to find it now.

 

[Grimord]

I have used JB bore paste on a tightly patched jag and using several dozen strokes to smooth out some rough spots in a bore. Squares of scotch brite on a jag also work.

 

[Hillbilly Delux]

JB bore paste, then polish. Several hundred bore strokes each.

 

[necchi]

What works best for polishing a rough bore

Uhm, actually need more info,,
New barrels can have rough bores,
new rifles can be full of shipping greases,
A new rifle not cleaned of shipping greases and fired can have a rough bore,
Neglect and rust can cause a rough bore,,

 

[necchi]

Several hundred bore strokes each.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

JB bore paste

 

[ohio ramrod]

For a really rough bore I like to use a lead lap with with a fine grinding compound. But for a mildly rough bore a simply bronze bore brush and automotive buffing compound does well. For a simple "deep cleaning" a cotton "mop" with tooth paste( thats right- tooth paste) gives your bore a bright smile.

 

[Henry Miles]

I thought about the toothpaste idea myself. Sure to have fewer cavities!

 

[nhmoose]

Clover lapping compounds. I bought a set from Brownells 30+ years ago 60 to 1500 grit in 2 ounce cans. still have over 1/2-2/3 of them they work great.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Lead lap will remove the tight spots and polish the bore for the best job, scotch bright or paste on a patch will follow the bore and remove a bit of roughness.
IMG_0459 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[SDSmlf]

What works best for polishing a rough bore and how is the best way to accomplish this task? The bore is not terrible, just needs deep cleaned and smoothed up. I saw a response the other day from IdahoLewis but can't seem to find it now.

If the bore needs smoothed up from manufacturing burrs/sharp edges, or light corrosion, you could try Scotch-Brite. Here is a @duelist1954 video showing the process he used on a difficult to load GPR.

I have used a similar method with Scotch-Brite for some time, but Mike explains his very well. I started doing it after speaking to Don Getz (Getz Barrel) years ago before he passed, and he recommended using the green (600 grit) Scotch-Brite for smoothing up barrels that were cutting patches. Said it wouldn’t hurt the barrel.

If you are attempting to correct issues brought on by neglect or poor cleaning practices, you may need to consider lapping or refreshing the bore, depending on how ‘bad’ the condition of the bore is.

 

[rich pierce]

Rifle or smoothbore?
I’ve seen plenty of rifle barrels where lapping would never get the tiny pits out and the rifling needed to be re-cut a little bit or “freshed”. For smoothbores, I use an expandable reamer.

 

[Henry Miles]

I used Scotchbrite and it cleaned up very well. Thanks for all the input

 

[RicM]

Tried it with my 1863 Springfield, worked great!! Checked with a bore scope and it looked even much better. Followed his video got off 6 clean rounds before running a few patches down to clean it out. Used the scotch-brite for a final cleaning followed with Bore Butter and hung her back on the wall until next time out.

 

[pooch156]

Chrome polish on a cleaning patch. Change patch several times. 100 strokes.

 

[LME]

For a really rough bore I like to use a lead lap with with a fine grinding compound. But for a mildly rough bore a simply bronze bore brush and automotive buffing compound does well. For a simple "deep cleaning" a cotton "mop" with tooth paste( thats right- tooth paste) gives your bore a bright smile.

I have worked on many modern, cartridge rifles and pistols and car compound is what I use. It is cheaper, rinses away with just water and does the job very well! If it is good enough for modern weapons it should be good enough for black powder weapons. There is a grey and a white version the grey being slightly coarser than the white. I wouldn't turn around for the difference as both do a fine job. It is cheaper as well! Never tried tooth paste except in my mouth? LOL!

 

[pooch156]

I have worked on many modern, cartridge rifles and pistols and car compound is what I use. It is cheaper, rinses away with just water and does the job very well! If it is good enough for modern weapons it should be good enough for black powder weapons. There is a grey and a white version the grey being slightly coarser than the white. I wouldn't turn around for the difference as both do a fine job. It is cheaper as well! Never tried tooth paste except in my mouth? LOL!

Yep! I started using car chrome polish when I began shooting cast bullets in modern firearms. Made a big difference in accuracy. So . . . I have been doing the same with my muzzle loaders. Makes for a nice bore!

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

Ok...perhaps a stupid question... but how does one know that their barrel requires this sort of polishing? I have a Lyman GPR that I've had for less than 5 years. I don't log my shooting sessions, but I also don't shoot a lot either--probably shot around 50 or so lead balls through it. My accuracy is what I would consider to be " "moment of deer vitals" at 100 yard max--patterning about the size of an orange at 50 yards and a little wider at 100 (plus the clean-boar flier that always seems to be the case on my first shot of a session).

I've read that new barrels need to be broken in to wear down factory rough spots--some say with as many as 200 shots. I'm not likely to burn through 200 lead balls for another 10 years at my current rate of enjoyment. Is bore polishing something I should consider doing?

 

[user 36911]

I keep it simple. I polish by shooting a lot.

 

[LME]

Ok...perhaps a stupid question... but how does one know that their barrel requires this sort of polishing? I have a Lyman GPR that I've had for less than 5 years. I don't log my shooting sessions, but I also don't shoot a lot either--probably shot around 50 or so lead balls through it. My accuracy is what I would consider to be " "moment of deer vitals" at 100 yard max--patterning about the size of an orange at 50 yards and a little wider at 100 (plus the clean-boar flier that always seems to be the case on my first shot of a session).

I've read that new barrels need to be broken in to wear down factory rough spots--some say with as many as 200 shots. I'm not likely to burn through 200 lead balls for another 10 years at my current rate of enjoyment. Is bore polishing something I should consider doing?

I like for a tight patch to go relatively smoothly down the bore and my groups at the range suitable. When this occurs no need to do anything but shoot and clean your rifle!