I thought I might get some interesting theories here. About the burning temperature of black powder vs the various substitutes, does anyone have actual data on the temperatures? How would a person go about measuring these temps? Maybe Lyman has this info?
BP substitutes and chain fires
- Thread starter russellshaffer
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I use a 1/2 inch cork circle punched out out of cork mat from the hobby store with an arch punch.
1 every other chamber no lube never had a misfire
SM
I didn't find anything about the actual burning temperature of the various powders but the MSDS for each powder includes a "Auto Ignition" temperature which is basically the Ignition temperature. Here's what a few of them say:
Black Powder = 464°F average (It varies with the different powders which includes blasting powder and cannon powder. I think the 464° is about where the sporting powders we use would be.)
Pyrodex = 740°F
Triple Seven = 770°F
American Pioneer = 670°F
Black MZ = 670°F
Chain fires are almost always from the rear since a proper ball or bullet will not allow flash to go past it and then there is lube. Over size flash holes and caps that fit loose or fall off are the worst.
The worst are the Remington revolvers for gap pressures but they still will not chain fire from the front. We found a RB was best since the cylinders are so small the next round is almost under the cone and will eat the nose of a bullet.
Next is to use a thicker lube over the ball and a good BPCR lube can hold up best while Crisco just blows away.
The misconception is a chain fire comes from the front and a wad stops it. It is poor nipples and a cap can slam fire against the recoil plate if not fit. Enough pressure come out of nipples to send the hammer to almost full cock.
The worst are the Remington revolvers for gap pressures but they still will not chain fire from the front. We found a RB was best since the cylinders are so small the next round is almost under the cone and will eat the nose of a bullet.
Next is to use a thicker lube over the ball and a good BPCR lube can hold up best while Crisco just blows away.
The misconception is a chain fire comes from the front and a wad stops it. It is poor nipples and a cap can slam fire against the recoil plate if not fit. Enough pressure come out of nipples to send the hammer to almost full cock.
IMHO the fire at the rear by the nipples sets off the cap and not the propellant. The firing cap does the rest. It seems to make more sense for that with the fire igniting the cap as the fire just goes up to the pellet straight not having to go up the nipple then turn and go through the nipple to hit the propellant.
I have shot revolvers since the 70's and have yet to have a chain fire. Just lucky it seems.
I have shot revolvers since the 70's and have yet to have a chain fire. Just lucky it seems.
