• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Brake Cleaner For Extended Shooting Sessions?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
While shooting muzzle loaders I'm never in a hurry so I just spit patch between shots. Firing a cap after four or five shots sometimes. When I clean I use water at the ambient temperature. Not hot, or real cold. I've found that the larger calibers are dirtier, the smaller one's less so.
 
While shooting muzzle loaders I'm never in a hurry so I just spit patch between shots. Firing a cap after four or five shots sometimes. When I clean I use water at the ambient temperature. Not hot, or real cold. I've found that the larger calibers are dirtier, the smaller one's less so.
I'm with you on that "never in a hurry bit". Is it really that time comsumming to wipe between shots?
 
I'm with you on that "never in a hurry bit". Is it really that time consuming to wipe between shots?
I wouldn't think so. What's all the hurry for? Unless you're in a hurry! Me, I take my time; so wiping between shots makes sense for me as I usually cannot load the next shot without wiping. I may have to invest in some MAP.
 
I removed the peroxide from my version of MAP. I was told by more than one black powder enthusiast back in the day that the peroxide actually is a weak acid and can do harm to a barrel over time. I use 91% isopropyl alcohol in my mix, as it has a small portion of water in it, plus the Murphy's. I only use enough Murphy's to just tint the color somewhat. It works well as a field cleaner, and its good for cleaning your hands too.
 
Thats kind of the story I've heard too, that Peroxide is an acid. And that it works just fine in the clean up of black powder residue. But if left on for more than several minutes it tends to damage the finish. Lets just say that so far I've been "reluctant" to find out first hand.
 
Might already have been said so I apologize if so. I didn't want to read all three pages. I used to wipe after every shot, every 2nd or third if I was being lazy. Then I switched two things. One, I started using real black, which of course fouls a lot more than Pyrodex or Black MZ (mediocre substitute made by Aliant that is only half the cost of Pyrodex. worth the difference for plinking, I didn't get consistent enough results for match shooting but then I don't shoot matches. ) The other thing I did was start using Moose Milk, the version I use is similar to whats been called MAP, but no Peroxide. Its 1 part water soluble cutting oil, one part Murphy's Oil Soap and I think three parts water, some use Alcohol and water.
My result was consistency shot to shot without wiping. No significant bore fouling as each load with a patch dampened with this wipes the bore for me. Its as consistent at my level of shooting as any other system I've tried, and since I'm relatively lazy its easier.
 
Hey, you are a big boy. If brake cleaner works for you, great. For the little exposure you get doubt it could actually be harmful. A lot of people have their own special formulas. I have had patch lube success with -40 windshield washer fluid; a mixture of water, Murphy’s Oil Soap and Ballistols; along with other mixes. If you find something that works for you, go with it. Some wipe between shots for the ultimate in accuracy, others don’t wipe and use their special patch lube and their gun is still more accurate than they could possibly hope to shoot.
 
Might already have been said so I apologize if so. I didn't want to read all three pages. I used to wipe after every shot, every 2nd or third if I was being lazy. Then I switched two things. One, I started using real black, which of course fouls a lot more than Pyrodex or Black MZ (mediocre substitute made by Aliant that is only half the cost of Pyrodex. worth the difference for plinking, I didn't get consistent enough results for match shooting but then I don't shoot matches. ) The other thing I did was start using Moose Milk, the version I use is similar to whats been called MAP, but no Peroxide. Its 1 part water soluble cutting oil, one part Murphy's Oil Soap and I think three parts water, some use Alcohol and water.
My result was consistency shot to shot without wiping. No significant bore fouling as each load with a patch dampened with this wipes the bore for me. Its as consistent at my level of shooting as any other system I've tried, and since I'm relatively lazy its easier.
Hi Adui. I was shooting in some turkey shoots and was wiping between every shot, because I saw other shooters doing it and thought it must help. Perhaps I'm not the best shot either, but it didn't seem to make any smaller group. For some reason my Flintlock shoots 3 inches to one side on a clean barrel over a fouled barrel. I haven't experimented yet, but I am going to try a .018 patches until they get harder to load, which generally takes about 8-10 shots and then go to a .014 Patch. Has anyone else tried this? I plan to do so next week if the weather permits. I have a turkey shoot coming up on the 25th and I wanted to find out before then. The darn wind's making 30 miles an hour right now and is forecasted for the next four or five days. Would appreciate anything that anyone else has tried this way.
Thanks a bunch, squint
 
Back
Top