Most people agree that full power loads on brass frames remmies is a nono, but how long do they actually run before the become paper weights. I read about people saying that they hammer the arbor, but what I have not read is people with first hand expirince. The next part to this Question is 35 grains a full power load. Will it make my gun junk after 3 shots or 3 years of regular use. The reason I ask is I like the looks of the brass frames, but I want to use my gun as a hunting side arm (my OH MY ITS STILL ALIVE GUN).
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Brass frame Question
- Thread starter himem777
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The damage I've seen on the brass framed revolvers is that the cylinder pounds the rear of the frame during recoil. This eventually leads to excess fore & aft cylinder play. This in turn leads to problems with the action not working properly. I would suggest using far less than 35 gr. loads. 22-24 grains in a .44 cal revolver is more than needed for a close range cou-de-gras on deer sized game. If thats legal in your state.
Jon D
Jon D
Steve French
36 Cal.
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I have five Remingtons and three are brass frames, one I've had now for around 40 years, and the only problem I have with that is the hand spring. One of my Remingtons is a brass frame Bison, the buntline, and it makes for a fine hunting gun. When I shoot or hunt with it, I usually use 30 grns of powder. If it's a quality gun, it will be just fine.
Pustic
Pustic
Blizzard of '93
Cannon
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I've owned 3 brass frame '58 Rem .44's.
I shot many 100's of rb loads out of them over 28grs of 3F black. this is a 7.62X39 caseful of powder. no apparent wear I could see, I would not go more than that or use a conical slug. that load is actually around .38spcl energy levels.
plenty enough for protection in the woods or coupe shots if your state allows.
I shot many 100's of rb loads out of them over 28grs of 3F black. this is a 7.62X39 caseful of powder. no apparent wear I could see, I would not go more than that or use a conical slug. that load is actually around .38spcl energy levels.
plenty enough for protection in the woods or coupe shots if your state allows.
Greg Hardy
40 Cal.
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I have a theory about brass frames shooting loose.
One-Yes, full power loads will cause them to shoot loose.
Two-Loading with very tight round balls assembled.
The reason being, not only do you have the constant pounding of the cylinder against the frame, you have additional stress from loading...reverse stress on the cylinder arbor. That's a lot of stress both ways on the frame. My solution is use a cylinder loader if you plan on shooting a brass frame a lot even with reduced loads.
One-Yes, full power loads will cause them to shoot loose.
Two-Loading with very tight round balls assembled.
The reason being, not only do you have the constant pounding of the cylinder against the frame, you have additional stress from loading...reverse stress on the cylinder arbor. That's a lot of stress both ways on the frame. My solution is use a cylinder loader if you plan on shooting a brass frame a lot even with reduced loads.
Dave Rosenthal
70 Cal.
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Your idea warrants further consideration/discussion. Thanks for the input. I'm too tired to try tonight, so I'll sleep on it and maybe have a better comment in the morning with my coffee....
Dave
Dave
arcticap
54 Cal.
Over the years I've heard a whole range of responses about the longevity of brass frame guns. If a brasser does loosen up enough to be retired then at least it can always be sold for parts.
This one i have had ten years and have shot a lot. The recoil shield is still perfect and the cylinder arbor is still tight. I have allways keep the loads light in this gun around 20 grains. I just finished removing the bluing and polishing her up. I smoothed out the hand and fitted the bolt to the cylinder. Like a lot of Pietta Colts the bolt did fit the cylinder very well. The bolt now bottoms out on the cylinder notches and locks sweet.
Pete Gaimari
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20 grains wouldn't even tickle my guns.
I like the looks of the brass and for plinking 25 grains is what I use in my steel one. It also dose not seem like 35 grains once in a while would hurt. I wanted to buy the one on the "for sale" part of this form, but ran into wife problems.
Sharps1863
40 Cal.
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A wife can really put a damper on toy buying. :slap:
Back when I was a kid,14 or 15 I loaded a brass frame .36 revolver with all the powder it would hold. Shot it a lot as it's all I had then. Now 35years later I still shoot it every now and then with lighter loads. The cylinder gap is still smaller than a match book cover. It's about maxium now, but took a lot of shooting to get that way. I can even rember having to use a knife to shave the round ball because I had it so over loaded.
Greg Hardy
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I only have one question...why, oh why do the manufacturers insist on concentrating on brass framed .44s? The Confederate revolvers, brass, were .36s. I could understand thirty years ago when a brass framed was considerably less expensive than a steel frame. But, now, the prices aren't that much different, so why stress the .44? Keep them as historically accurate as possible, safer and reliable and keep them .36. I have been looking for a .36 Griswold copy and virturally cannot find one.
Because they are popular with shooters who don't really care for authenticity I guess. People like having a ".44" over a .36. The brass makes it cheaper, so they go for that. I think Cabelas has them at $140 or so at their cheapest.
