brazeing

[bill perry]

need to braze under lug to 20ga bubble flint lock I am building any suggestions. best Bill

 

[gunmaker43]

Heres a few pics of how I do it. Tin all clean pieces with low temp solder, I use 375 deg. plumbers solder. Wire all together & start at muzzle and go back watching for solder to turn silver. Be sure you clean & OIL bore after finished.

click to see more....Tom

 

[LRB]

Brazing is unnecessary. Just use a lead free solder. Brazing heat may put unwanted stresses in the barrel, and cause scaling in the bore.

 

[Zonie]

By "braze" do you mean by using a torch to heat the metal or are you thinking of actually brazing the joint?

Brazing involves heating the metal to over 1100 degrees F. If brass is being used as the filler, the temperature will be over 1600 to as high as 1980 degrees F.
These high temperatures include Silver brazing.
Temperatures over 1000 degrees can cause local distortions and oxidation which are usually not good for finished parts. There is also the likelihood of removing any hardness any steel part may have.

Soldering on the other hand requires heating the joint to temperatures in the 300-600 degree range.

At these temperatures there is little likelihood of damaging the metal or the finished sizes of the parts.
For parts that are likely to be subjected to large amounts of stress or strain a low temperature Silver bearing solder is a good choice.

Use a good flux and don't overheat the metal.
Don't direct the flame at the joint. Rather, heat the metal some distance from the joint and let the metal carry the heat to where it's needed.

Have fun.

 

[M. De Land]

I agree, good advice! I use a lot of Hi-force 44 for these applications as it has two thirds the strength of hard solder but flows at a bit over 400 degrees and has very good leaching action.
I've used it half a dozen times to reline shot out barrels and it worked superbly. Mike D.