Breech Plug Question

[ejcrist]

I assembled a TVM flintlock kit about three years ago and it came with the breech plug and the vent liner installed. I'm now putting together a Jim Chambers kit. The barrel has the breech plug installed but the vent hole will have to be drilled and tapped for the liner. Everything I've read online so far said you have to remove the breech plug to drill the liner hole so the drill bit doesn't hit the breech plug and break, so you have to remove the plug and re-install after the liner is installed. Is that true? I'd think if the bit hit the plug you'd have a problem on your hands because that would mean the plug would prevent the vent hole from reaching the main charge in the barrel. If anyone could point me in the right direction with this I'd appreciate it. My hope is that I can leave the plug in place and simply drill the vent hole.

Thanks, Gene

 

[Vaino]

When I install a White Lightning TH liner or any other liner, the outside dia. of the liner is 1/32" from the breechplug face and the breechplug is always removed. Even if the tap drill doesn't hit the plug face, the burrs in the bore from the drilling have to be removed.

Sometimes w/ certain builds I purposely locate the TH liner so it infringes on the plug face and then a funneled shaped recess has to be filed into the plug face for full exposure of the TH liner. Again the breechplug is removed.

Nothing difficult about removing a breechplug and during a build, I remove it a few times. Before removing, make sure the witness marks are evident on the bottom of the bbl/brecchplug. Vise jaws w/ brass or copper liners are mandatory and a 12" wrench w/ a long pipe extension really facilitates the unscrewing. I also use 1/16" thick copper shims on both sides of the bolster so the wrench jaws don't leave dents.

One more thing.....don't clamp on the threaded length of the bbl...it will tighten the breechplug fit.

Good luck w/ the Chambers' "kit"....Fred

 

[Col. Batguano]

Fred is right on. Your drill bit will leave some burrs on the inside of the barrel as it breaks through that will need to be removed. Just use a file for that. If you mess up the rifling a little that really doesn't matter, because the patched ball generally rests well forward of the touch hole liner anyway, and there's a lot of barrel out there for the patch to grab before it hits the muzzle.

When you re-assemble the plug to the barrel for the last time, chances are that there will be a slight bump that may need going over with the fine sand paper again to make it perfectly smooth again, as it's almost impossible to get things exactly lined up the same way twice.

 

[Billnpatti]

Yep, you will need to remove the breach plug to drill the touch hole for the liner. The problem is that the touch hole should end up either right at the face of the breach plug or just slightly (maybe a 1/16 inch) ahead of the face of the plug. The hole that you drill for the liner is larger than the touch hole and the back side of the hole that you drill will hit the breach plug. Also, with the breach plug in place, it is difficult to thread the hole for the liner and you will also end up with burrs inside the bore that need to be removed. So, you are faced with no choice but to remove the breach plug. Put the barrel in a large, well mounted padded vice but do not clamp down on the rear of the barrel or you will just tighten the barrel onto the breach plug. Leave a few inches of the breach projecting beyond the vice. Use a properly fitting wrench to loosen the plug. You may need a cheater bar on your wrench because the breach plug is in pretty darned tight. When you put it back in, be sure to put some anti-seize grease on the threads. Also put anti-seize grease on the touch hole liner when you install it. Choke tube grease is good for this application.

 

[Snakebite]

You might think about investing in Jim Chamber's Kit Assembly DVD. It's $35.00 and it does address removing the breech plug, I don't remember if it talked about the touch hole liner though. Plus it's a good reference when building your rifle.
:2

 

[Birddog6]

Inlet the Lockplate 75% of the way First , then move the barrel back to the proper position to align the flashpan to the vent liner.
If ya don't you will end up with the vent liner going into the breechplug threads.

Keith Lisle

 

[ejcrist]

Thanks for the info fella's. I clamped the barrel in my bench vise w/brass jaw liners and attempted to unscrew the plug with a 12" crescent wrench but couldn't get her to budge. I'll try a pipe handle extension tomorrow. Just to make sure though, it's lefty loosie, righty tightie correct? Also, would it help to use penetrating oil or anything? I didn't think it'd be this tough since it's brand new.

Gene

 

[Birddog6]

Yes, it is a RH thread..... so it is Leftie Loosie, Righty Tighty... :thumbsup:

If it is a swamped barrel, you might want to put a brass shim in on the other end of the jaws, gives it a lil more hold.

Most of the times a 12" wrench will remove one, on a Rice or a Colerain. However I have had a coupled that took a cheater.
Penetrating oil is not gonna hurt anything, but if it is new it is not rust holding it, thus may not benefit much with the oil.

Wrench fit on the plug is important. If it is a tapered lug on the breechplug, you should use a tapered jaw fit. And straight
would use a straight jaw fit. This keeps from rounding off the edges of the lug.

I also try to keep the wrench from going up over the tang edge, as this tends to distort metal there as well, and then
you have that to repair.

These types of breech plugs don't bother me. The lil stub lugs like on a hooked breech are the ones that really worry me.
I have a new Damascus barrel I am going to put into a Jaeger for me, and I had to take the breechplug out yesterday.
Tried 3-4 times & finally gave it my all thinking it would twist off the plug, but it popped loose. Kinda pisses me off
it was made out of a soft steel, as to me it should be something tough as H so it will not twist off. :idunno:

I had a Green Mountain barrel one time I had bought & the guy I bought it from breeched it for me. Took a 15"
Cresent & a 4" bar & me weighing 220# on the end of it to break it loose ! :shocked2: Needless to say, I never had him breech
another one for me. That was totally ridiculous. :slap:

When I breech one, I want it to turn in easy to One Flat Off being seated & then I want it to snug in firm on that last
flat. To me if it takes over a 12" Cresent & me @ 220# to take it loose, all you did is put more stress on the threads than
necessary.

Keith Lisle

PS: Always put a witness mark on the plug & barrel. I use a small chisel & mark barrel & plug at the same time, so when
I put the plug back in I can ease right to align those witness marks & it is spot on.

PSS: Take a Q'tip & put some Antiseaze in the breechplug hole & on the threads of the breechplug when you put it
back in. It don't take much & it will be worth it if you ever have to take it back out.

 

[Pete G]

+1 on the antiseize, but always remember that a little goes a long way. It is all too easy to have it migrate up between the joint between the tang and barrel. You might not even notice until you try to brown the barrel and that particular spot will not take. It requires more than a quick wipe with acetone to remove the stuff.

 

[Birddog6]

That is correct, that is why I put it in the Hole. Just coat the first 2-3 threads on the plug. It will keep it from browning for sure.

Keith Lisle