BREECH PLUG REMOVAL

[rickystl]

Hello all.

Which is the best tool/method you have found to remove breech plugs on traditional muzzle loading barrel. Thanks for any comments.

Rick

 

[Kansas Jake]

I've never done it and would only suggest doing it if absolutely necessary. That would be in case there is leakage around the plug or the inside of the barrel is so badly rusted in the breech area it needs to be inspected.

 

[WVAED]

It depends on the type. Is it a custom build rifle? If so, the breech plug shouldn't be to hard to remove. I use a piece of soft lead sheeting (from a roof boot) and wrap around it and put it in a vice, breech plug up. Use an adjustable wrench and unscrew it. If it isn't marked underneath with a mark, i would take a cold chisel and mark across the plug and bottom barrel flat so you could put it back where you took it out. If the rifle was breeched at the factory, say a CVA (for example), it is not recommended to try to take them out.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

ricky,
I am with Kansas Jake, don't ever take one out unless absolutely necessary. I make and install my own breech plugs so naturally I install and take them out for fit. Once the rifle is finished I go by Kansas Jake. Place the barrel in a good vice at the breech plug end and then use a wrench that fits the configuration of the breech plug. Make sure you are not wrenching on any exposed to view surface of the tang, to avoid having a visible bugger. Flintlocklar :wink:

 

[curator]

A round barrel vise with aluminum shims and a bit of pine rosin makes the job much easier. If the breech-tang is tapered, a breech plug wrench is a better option than an adjustable (crescent) wrench as the adjustable wrench will deform the upper surface of the tang. On stubborn, tapered-tang plugs, I would make a "clamp" from two pieces of solid steel and two bolts, then engage the clamped plug with a 4 foot pipe wrench. A week soaking the breech in a can of Kroil, or kerosene-ATF is often a big help. A 2 pound rubber mallet to provide a bit of "shock and awe" will sometimes be needed to get the process moving. Leverage is your friend! I have successfully pulled the breech plugs on over 100 original muskets, both flintlock and percussion, one of which had 7 loads superimposed in it. If you don't need to pull it, breech plug are best left alone.

 

[Vaino]

Have removed many breechplugs during the builds and use a good, large vise w/ copper or brass "pads" on the jaws. Copper shims are placed on both sides of the breechpkug bolster and I use a 12" Crescent wrench W/ a 2' long "cheater pipe" which supplies a lot of torque. Don't clamp the bbl on the threaded portion of the bbl.

The 12" wrench and 2' "cheater pipe are more important when reinstalling the breechplug.....lining up the chisel marks on the plug and bbl usually requires a few attempts and the long lever makes it a lot easier. .....Fred

 

[MSW]

what Edmelott and Flehto said ... don't pull it unless you absolutely have to ... this can get you into trouble a lot faster than it can get you out of trouble ... be well below the threads, and use a lead 'pad' around the barrel.

good luck with your project!

 

[coloradoclyde]

Make sure it is not a Traditions, CVA, Jukar, Dikar or Ardessa...Their breeches are not removable.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Breech plugs shouldn't be removed unless absolutely necessary, they are an interruption fit and can get slack/out of alignment with constant removal.
No need for cleaning, so if all's well, leave it be.

I have wooden blocks with V cuts in them for round barrels, for when they Need to come out.

Richard.

 

[rickystl]

Gentlemen:

Thank you ALL for the great comments. Very useful. Much appreciated.

Rick

 

[ohio ramrod]

Removing the breech plug is a "Last resort" thing to do. I have done it on several rifles over the years but only when needed. All CVA, traditions, etc have the percusion drum threaded through the breech plug and it must be removed first . Getting the breech plug realigned is a touchy thing to do. I don't recommend any one doing it themselves if not experienced. As to what wrench to use (the original question) I custom make my wrenches. :idunno:

 

[VsTrees]

:bow: Flehto is correct. This is exactly how I had to do it too. I struggled for quite a long time with the Crescent wrench without the extender pipe. finally I got brave enough to use the extender pipe over the handle of the wrench to increase torque. That did it! Thanks, Fred, for the tip on replacing it back to the marks!! I haven't done that yet as I'm still inletting the barrel.

 

[M. De Land]

Properly fitting plug wrench, barrel vice or padded heavy bench vice.
I always like to use a bit of heat and then shock from a brass mallet.
Heat and shock stress thread load far less than raw torque and are more effective. Same deal as removing tire lug nuts with an impact wrench instead of a tire iron.
Another trick that has worked from time to time is to set the barrel out side in the cold or put in the freezer for 20 minutes or so before applying wrench load.

 

[Zonie]

It's been mentioned but it's worth mentioning again.

When clamping the barrel make sure the vise or whatever is being used to clamp it is not clamping on the area where the breech plug threads are.
Pressure exerted on the threaded area will crush the barrel threads into the breech plug threads making them almost impossible to unscrew.

Keep the clamping force at least an inch away from the threads.

That usually means the vise jaws should be at least 1 3/4" away from the place where the barrel ends and where a snail type breech plug ,meets the barrel.

In a regular set-up without a snail breech plug, the vise should be about 1 3/4 away form the rear of the barrel.

 

[rickystl]

Thanks again EVERYONE. Some great tips/adice here.
Much appreciated.

Rick