Broke pick off in vent hole

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StewartLeach

40 Cal.
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I thought I had already experienced all the ways to screw up shooting a flintlock- dry ball, dull flint, oily steel, loose jaw screw, gunk in pan, etc. Yesterday I invented a new one!

I was about fifteen shots into an afternoon, and was picking the vent. Had one of those highly artistic, hand forged, period correct picks, with a twisted shaft and curly top loop for the idiot string I need to keep from losing my tools. My normal picking style is to insert the pointy end, wiggle and twist a bit, and withdraw. That and a slap on the breech and she goes off almost all the time.

Well, I broke the tip of the pick off in the vent hole. It was well and truly stuck, couldn't get it to come out or push on through. Out here in the semi-arid west we don't have the wet gooey gunk problem experienced by our more humid brethren, but rather a buildup of stuff more the consistency of a charcoal briquet. I hadn't toothbrushed the pan for a while, and believe that may have contributed to the problem. End of shooting session. At home I dressed down the end of a punch and tapped the fragment on through.

Anybody else done something like this? After resolving the problem I made up a new pick from stainless steel wire and a few inches of muley antler. May not be "PC", but it's unlikely to work harden and break off.

White Fox
 
Never managed to break a real vent pick, but I've end up with half a toothpick in my hand more than once. :rotf:

Then there was the spruce twig that suddenly got shorter. :shake:

Note to self.... Make sure there's a vent pick in my kit. Every single time.
 
Do you have a 1/16" pin or drift punch? If not - it may be time to get one. Rap it with a ball-peen hammer to push the vent pick tip in and either clear the vent or bend it so, either way, it will slide out the barrel.

I use really soft & unlikely to break wire. Either copper or monel iron (or a piece of detempered clotheshanger wire).

The thorns from thornapple trees work great, also.

HPIM1060.jpg
 
If you hadn't gotten the broken piece out I was going to suggest using a magnet or high pressure air to extract it.
 
I like to use bronze or brass rod and make it pointy and sharp on two/three sides and try to avoid much twisting, I would anneal one made of any ferrus metal to soften it up some.
 
I have wondered about that happening, I just got one of those fancy forged picks with a long sharp point. Now I have 2 reasons to be careful, I already stabbed myself with the new pick, I would like to avoid breaking it off.
 
Buy you some music wire, you can get it in 3 foot lengths. Cut it into about 4 inch pieces and coil about 2 inches into a loop around a pair of pliers. This way you'll have a bit of a handle and a place to tie your "idiot" string.
 
I, like others, have had the toothpick, twig etc, break off on occasion. I have several hammered decorative picks that I've softened myself. I prefer a triangled shape rather than squared, and blunt with no point. A point isn't neccessary, can puncture skin and cause infections. When at the range and most hunting adventures I use a good old pipe cleaner. They're soft, can be wet with rubbing ALCHOHOL and it evaporates rather quickly. also. The drinking kind doesn't go well with firearms and powder. Plus, inspecting and repairing all your accoutrements and shooting impliments can go a long way in preventing problems.
 
I myself had one of those forged picks. The tip broke off. I suggest throwing it away. I now use Music Wire .037 and .027 diameter to make my picks. One for flint and one for nipples. You can order the wire from McMaster Carr mail order in tubes of 100 ct 12" lengths. You will have enough for all your shooting buddies. Cost was about $14 per tube.

I use a propane torch (but any flame type heat source will work) to heat one end 1.5 in. to soften for bending. The high carbon steel of the music wire can be annealed by getting it a dull red and slowly moving the heat away. You can also move the wire in and out of the flame, but each time heat the wire a little bit less. It is important to slowly cool the wire as it will rehardend in air if cooled to quickly form being red hot. Try not to get it orange hot, just red. I do my bending when the end is cooled. Now you can bend the cooled annealed end into a nice ring. I use a 5/16 aluminum dowel with a slot in the end to bend the ring. You can choose how many wraps around the dowel for your ring. I like two full wraps. I snip off the wire to my desired length and then deburr the cut end on the belt sander. ps, if the wire breaks during bending, try less heat for the annealing. The thinner wire is tempermental, so less heat and slower cooling.
 
Go to any shop that repairs lawnmowers, get a length of throttle control wire, comes in 2 sizes and is super cheap.
 
You might also try a local hobby shop to purchase music wire. They usually have a good selection of diameters in lengths of 36", and sell by the individual piece.
 
Plain black "tie-wire" works fine, as does any thick copper wire (electrical). I think the hand forged "vent picks" are cute but a disaster in waiting. Some folks are going to get stabbed, significantly enlarge their vents, or break the thing off. I have made and owned them but only use the sharp end as an awl. A feather is much gentler on the vent and works well enough.
 
wow- that's a new one ... i must admit i've never had that happen, but i certainly would share your frustration if it had.

i use a bit of wire off a spool which i cannot identify. i suspect that it's florist wire... just a bunch of it on a wooden spool which looks like it came from the thirties- no markings or warning labels or anything. kinda goofy, but it works OK.
 
Torch orifice picks from any welding supplier will work.They are available in many sizes.
JDD
 
Never hapened to me but probley the only screw up I have not done :surrender:
 
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