Broke Ramrod while at range

[dlpowell]

Ok,

Now do I go to the local HD and buy a hardwood dowel which is considerably stiffer than the ramrod that came with my GPR? Or do I order a ramrod from TOTW or someone else?

What's your recommendation?

 

[roundball]

I switched all mine to brass for that very reason of breaking...didn't want that to happen when out hunting, and/or run the risk of injuring myself...however, brass may not match your rifle.

As a strong alternative that still looks like wood, there was a recent thread about a company who makes wooden ramrods which have a full length metal rod inside if that's of any interest...I think it was in the shooting accessories section

 

[Rebel]

Here is a link to that thread.[url] http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/195774[/url]/

 

[paulvallandigham]

If you can find a stright grained dowel made of hickory at your hardware store, buy it! Otherwise, you will have to order one from TOTW, LOG CABIN, Dixie, or some other provider. Check the links.

Next, you have to learn how to use that ramrod so you don't break it. Don't grab it at the end and try to ram it all way down the barrel in one movement, or stroke! grab the rod only about 6-10 inches above the muzzle of the barrel, using your fingers only- DON't Wrap your thumb around the rod. Alternate your two hands grabbing the rod as it goes down the barrel. If you are shooting percussion, then then the ball is seated, you may want to compress the load by putting weight on the end of the rod. Do so carefully. Your accuracy will be better if you are consistent in the amount of pressure. I see men at the range haul out a bathroom scale, and put the butt of their rifle on it when compressing the load, while they watch the face dial on the scale. They get very good results. Don't be pounding on the ramrod with anything, or bouncing it on your ball. That will only distort the shape of the round ball, and each ball will be distorted a different amount, and give you lousy accuracy. If you cast balls, you know how much work is put into making them, insuring they are sorted by weight, are round, and don't have wrinkles or voids. Don't misshapen the ball in the barrel and ruin what little ballistics coefficient it has.

Do these things, and your ramrod should last your lifetime. When you get the new one, check it carefully for any grain runout. If it has some, send it back. You need a rod with straight grain, the entire length that you need for your barrel, plus a few inches longer, so you can grab hold of the rod when working. Make two rods: one to replace the short rod that fits under the barrel; and the second a range rod you use instead of the barrel rod. Your range rod can have a ferrel and jag on one end, and a handle of your choice and design at the other. You might even want to find a stainless steel, one pice range rod for this purpose. I have one for each gun I shoot, as they are different calibers, with different barrel lengths. The hickory rod stays in the gun, and is only used when I am hunting in the woods. I keep it clean, and oiled, whether it is used or not at the range.

 

[FishDFly]

I would personally replace the ramrod with one similiar to the one that came with the rifle for appearance sake. Then I would not use it.

Next, I would buy a metal range rod to use at the range, they are much safer. I had a friend who had his wooden ram rod break and jab into his forearm which he had to pull out. Not fun.

If you hunt, order a brass ram rod for hunting.

RDE

 

[TANSTAAFL]

I have been using the same hickory ramrods for the past three decades, albeit I do use the largest diameter range rod/wiping stick possible for each caliber.

 

[Mulebrain]

I will puter to ya this way. Every single muzzleloader I own the ramrod has failed :cursing: I moved up to a dedicated brass, and fiberglass rods. I did learn however some amazing accuracy firing without a pathced ball when the rods broke.

 

[2172]

:applause: absolutley what I do, so you must be right.. :rotf: just kidding..Hank

 

[Stumpkiller]

What Paul said:

Next, you have to learn how to use that ramrod so you don't break it. Don't grab it at the end and try to ram it all way down the barrel in one movement, or stroke! grab the rod only about 6-10 inches above the muzzle of the barrel . . .

I don't alternate hands, though. I just slide my hand up a foot and push some more.

I made two spares for my newest flinter as soon as it arrived so I knew right off I'd never need one. (You only break-em whan you have no spares). Since 1976 I have broken no wood rammers. Mostly over the years I've shot the T/C variety, which I guess are impregnated with something (or were back when I bought them). My Bess had a metal one; never bent that. My Dixie was 32 cal and that 42" hickory rod survived. Now I'm using "select" hickory (I buy three and choose the best one).

I shoot a load that doesn't require three men and a boy to seat. If you're pounding with a mallet to start it you're asking for a break by following up with a wood "nail set" on a obstruction 6" down the bore.

One of life's pleasures is a tapered wood rammer. It allows you a better grip, and choking up on the last, untapered bit eliminates the need for a seperate short-starter.

If you're carrying the rifle all day a brass rammer may tire your arms out. :hmm: Not sure what 45" of 3/8" brass would weigh, but it seems like I'd be cursing it. Do they make swamped brass rods? :haha:

 

[roundball]

If you're carrying the rifle all day a brass rammer may tire your arms out. :hmm: Not sure what 45" of 3/8" brass would weigh, but it seems like I'd be cursing it. Do they make swamped brass rods?

You're 100% right...been there done that...was changing carry arms before I was out of sight of the truck...first time I went still hunting with a 3/8" x 33" solid brass rod I ended up sitting a lot. :grin:

Checked back with October Country and found that they also made very strong tubular brass rods....060" wall thickness...so I put them on a couple carry rifles and rezeroed them...excellent rods and don't wear you out if you walk/carry a lot.

Most of the places I stand hunt are only a few hundred yards from where I park so I keep the solids on most rifles for the strength, no ends to pull loose, and the weight helps accuracy for me.

Definitely won't be using a solid rod on the .40cal that's coming...tiny bore in a 15/16" x 33" barrel will be heavy enough with a tubular rod.

 

[philo426]

One way to avoid breakage is to grasp the ram-rod close to the muzzle thus limiting the side force that results in breakage.I have also heard of after-market ramrods made od carbon-fiber that are break-resistant.

 

[jderrick]

I would personally replace the ramrod with one similiar to the one that came with the rifle for appearance sake. Then I would not use it.

Next, I would buy a metal range rod to use at the range, they are much safer. I had a friend who had his wooden ram rod break and jab into his forearm which he had to pull out. Not fun.

If you hunt, order a brass ram rod for hunting.

RDE

That's about what I wound up doing after half a Traditions rod nearly went through my hand. If I wanna be historical and light and wooden, I've got that. But working out at the range, I've got the metal one....

 

[bullofthewoods]

Anyone have a brass ramrod from RMCsports? I was thinking about ordering one to use for hunting and was wondering what anybody thought.

Thanks

 

I would replace the original with a proper hickory rod, then I would get a nice range rod of aircraft grade aluminum (brass is too heavy)such as is made by a firm in Colorado (HC?)--I have one and it is great! I use the range rod for all non-period shooting events and in cleaning, thus saving my hickory rods.

 

the al ramrod company is BH tool of oregon. see their site.

 

[Rebel]

I have ordered a few brass ramrods From RMC. They are a good rod.

 

[roundball]

Anyone have a brass ramrod from RMCsports? I was thinking about ordering one to use for hunting and was wondering what anybody thought.

Thanks

As an alternative, I've been ordering all my brass rods from October Country...both solids anbd tubular...they make an extremely strong, rigid tubular brass rod...walls are .060" thick...ends are glued and pinned...have several of them and they're terrific.

For ones you'd carry in the rifle itself, he puts a cross hatch pattern on the first 1.5" under the muzzle so it gives a good non-slip grip to pull it out of the thimbles.

 

[shortjack]

I just went down to the Lowes store and bought a 3/8 diameter oak dowel rod and used that instead of a hickory one. Worked great and have been using it for the last 5 years without any problems.