Broken Cleaning Jag in Barrel

[mogrene]

Not sure if this belongs in the gun builder's bench or a different forum.

I was shooting my flintlock .45 cal rifle at the range yesterday. When I was done, I ran a couple of patches of Hoppes #9 down the barrel to hold it until I could get home for a more thorough cleaning. I used a cleaning jag screwed into the end of my ramrod.

The threaded jag stem snapped flush with the tip of the ramrod, leaving the jag and patch at the breech end of the barrel.

Any thoughts on how to get it out? It's blocking the touch hole, so putting in a little powder to shoot it out won't work. I tried removing the breech plug, but couldn't budge it (I built the rifle over 30 years ago).

 

[Dwight Rutherford]

If you or a friend have an air compressor , remove the nipple if you can, point the muzzle in a safe direction then stick the air gun in the nipple hole and give it a blast. Should blow the patch and jag out.

 

[nchawkeye]

Sounds like its a flintlock because he said the touch hole was blocked...

 

[B.Habermehl]

Of the touch hole liner is removable, then pull it and carefully pry the jag forward. Use care that you don't damage the liner threads. Add powder and shoot it out. Or if the liner has threads that match any available grease fitting, screw the grease fitting into the barrel and pump the jag out with grease. Then just push the grease out with your new cleaning rod! hope this helps.BJH

 

[oldwoodswalker]

i would not shoot the jag out if it were me.air or water pressure would work

 

[Davemuzz]

I have to ask this, but why were you using Hoppes #9 to clean a black powder barrel? Hoppes is made to clean a modern action powders, not BP's. If anything, the Hoppes may have contributed to helping jam your patch in the barrel.

What may help you the next time is either a product made for removing BP residue, or just a patch soaked in rubbing alcohol.

FWIW


Dave

 

[mogrene]

Thanks, everyone. To answer the questions:

o Yes, it is a flintlock.

o I was using Hoppes 9 black powder solvent and patch lube. I've used it for years to swab out the barrel between shots and never had a problem before.

When I installed the touch hole liner, I filed it flush with the barrel flat. So the screwdriver slot is very shallow. I'll try that, though.

If that or the air compressor trick doesn't work, then it may be time for a new barrel. Sigh...this one is a Douglas and shoots great. They are hard to come by these days since Douglas got out of the muzzle loading barrel business.

Thanks again for the tips.

 

[jamesthomas]

You could probably send the barrel to Bobby Hoyt, or Tip Curtis, or give Track of the Wolf a call, they could probably remove the breech plug and get the jag out. It might cost you a little bit but it's better than having to buy a new barrel.

 

[ol vern]

pvt. message sent

 

[ol vern]

pvt. message sent

 

[ol vern]

pvt. message sent

 

[mikemeteor]

Soak breech end in Liquid Wrench, Kroil or other penetrant for a couple days. Apply heat to breech plug, do a couple heat/cool cycles, and rap firmly on bolster. Get bigger wrench and cheater pipe on handle, see if plug will break free.

Use a ez-out screw extractor on vent liner, try the grease, and replace with new vent liner.

Put barrel in car and drive to nearest gunsmith.

These are some things I'd try, in order, before abandoning the barrel.
/mm

 

[Birddog6]

Never use a jag or anything else with brass threads in the barrel. :shake: Use only ones with steel threads.

IMHO, you have two choices:

1: You can remove the barrel & debreech the barrel & push the jag back out the muzzle. Make sure there is a witness mark in the barrel/breechplug at the bottom so you can line it back up. (Don't push the Jag out the breech, as there may be a lip there from the breechplug/bore fit) If it is tight, put a range rod against it & tap it out with a rubber mallet.

2: Remove the vent liner & push the jag forward, then blow it out with a air compressor. Then install a new vent liner.

Keith Lisle

 

[gland]

Soak breech end in Liquid Wrench, Kroil or other penetrant for a couple days. Apply heat to breech plug, do a couple heat/cool cycles, and rap firmly on bolster. Get bigger wrench and cheater pipe on handle, see if plug will break free.

Use a ez-out screw extractor on vent liner, try the grease, and replace with new vent liner.

Put barrel in car and drive to nearest gunsmith.

These are some things I'd try, in order, before abandoning the barrel.
/mm

Left hand drill bits also work well in these situations. Just make sure you start with a small one, and gradually work up until you have just a shell of the vent liner left. Probably before you get there, the vent liner will spin right out stuck to the left hand drill bit. Good luck!

sweed :thumbsup:

 

[Rifleman1776]

Never use a jag or anything else with brass threads in the barrel. Use only ones with steel threads.

Really!!! :shocked2:
I have scores of tips, jags and whatevers with brass threads that I have been using for over 40 years. I've had tips pull off that weren't properly pinned (my fault and part of the learning curve) but never had a brass thread fail. Shocker to learn I have been doing it wrong all this time. As have all the manufacturers who still make mostly brass threaded rod accessories.
Wat shall we do now??? :idunno: :rotf: :wink:

 

[matt denison]

"If that or the air compressor trick doesn't work, then it may be time for a new barrel."

:shocked2:

Whoa, slow down there partner. Don't give up on that barrel. You'll get yourself all depressed. There is some way to remove the jag. Personally I'd start with removing the vent liner. It's the easiest and least intrusive of the ideas proposed. If all else fails take it to a 'smith to have it debreached.

 

[hawkeye2]

Over many years I have had a lot of the brass jags with brass threads break off at the junction of the body and the threads. Most were TC brand and all were 10-32. None ever were a problem and I use a muzzle guide and don't abuse them but they do break. If have a ramrod accessory with a removable threaded portion I now replace it with a section of stainless 10-32 to eliminate the problem.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Over many years I have had a lot of the brass jags with brass threads break off at the junction of the body and the threads. Most were TC brand and all were 10-32. None ever were a problem and I use a muzzle guide and don't abuse them but they do break. If have a ramrod accessory with a removable threaded portion I now replace it with a section of stainless 10-32 to eliminate the problem.

I suggest, without abuse or misuse, there is no problem.
I will agree, steel threads are stronger but brass is just fine.
If steel is really needed, we need to go back in time and those 'back in the day' that their whittled wood tips are no good and make them use steel. :haha:

 

[M. De Land]

I had a brass cleaning jag break off last week in 10-32. I just turned a new shank on the lower jag body ahead of where it broke off in the lathe and re-threaded but the jag is a good bit shorter now. It would have just bent had it been made of stainless or cold role steel. MD

 

[Birddog6]

Well, like it or not, every single one on here that has posted about a broken jag in the bore, had brass threads. Have not counted them but in the last ? 10 years I have been on here, seems like it is 2-3 a year. Misused or not, the brass one are the one that are breaking, not the steel ones.

For some reason, lately you seem to find fault with some things I say on here. :idunno: I don't know if you have something against me, or if I have offended you in some way, or what. If I did offend you, I apologize, & had no idea that I did so.

However, having said that, I do have a solution for the issue at hand. I will go on my merry way & you can find fault with someone else.

Keith Lisle