Broken Escutcheon Screw

[joe4702]

Hi folks,

Well I managed to snap the head off one of the escutcheon screws 5 minutes after taking my brand new GPR out of the box.

The shaft is flush on both sides, so I can't get any grip on it to turn it out

I can knock it out with a punch (which I assume will strip the hole), then fill the hole with putty and redrill. But I was wondering if there is some other way?

Also, is it safe to shoot the gun in this condition? Range day is this Friday and I'm not sure I'll have it repaired by then. I'll probably have to order the screw from Lyman. If I don't shoot it this Friday, it'll be a long 2 week wait until I can get to the range again.

Thanks for any advice.

Joe

 

[Flint311]

Escutcheon screw? Ya, go ahead and shoot it. You/it will be fine. I don't have escutcheons on my rifles, just pin 'em. Handles it fine. The screws just hold that little plate on......

 

[nebraska steve]

I would use an easy out first. If I did not have and easy out I would use small punch or chisel and move the remaining screw counter clockwise by holding the punch at as much angle as possible and tapping. You should be able to get some purchase on the screw. It only needs to be untorqued before you can easily turn it out.

 

[Birddog6]

You will have to take a Exacto knife & cut a little bit of wood around the screw & take a very small needlenose pliers & back he screw out. Take some Accraglas Gel & mix it, dye it, & fill the hole. Let it sit overnight, lay the plate in the inlet & Predrill the hole Thru the plate (best to Predrill all of the escutcheon plate holes) Then take some bar soap, scrape an Exacto knife blade across it & put a lil soap in the drilled hole to lubricate the Hole & then scrape the threads of the Screw across the soap & put the lubricated screw in. I do this to all the wood screws on rifles I build. Makes it Much... easier to get the screws in & out when building a rifle & less chance of buggering the slots up in the screw. :thumbsup:

These escutcheon screws are very fragile & you must predrill the holes & lube the hole & the screw or they will snap like nothing. It's a very common occurrence on a GPR assembly kit.

Keith Lisle

 

[rafterob]

Had to do this on a CVA years back. I happened to have some small brass tubing that fit perfectly over the screw shaft, I think my Brother used it for model airplanes. I sharpened the tip and was able to tap it down over the shaft. Wiggled it a bit and it came right out. I then used an epoxy-sawdust mix to fill the hole and re drilled it.

 

[Col. Batguano]

you could use a dremel and grind a small slot in it to get a screwdriver tip in there too. I did that with a tap that broke off in a lock plate.

 

[Black Hand]

Before you do anything, remove the escutcheon. Then, being mindful of the inlet edge, remove the screw by whatever means you deem necessary. Glue in a toothpick/dowel, allow to dry and cut flush with the bottom of the inlet. Replace escutcheon and screw(s). It helps to lube the screw with beeswax (or soap) and run them in gently. Those little screws will snap off with little effort (as you discovered).

 

[joe4702]

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions.

What I was forgetting is the hole is covered by the wedge plate, so whatever minor surgery I need to do to get the shaft out will be hidden anyway.

I'm going to stop by an Ace hardware store and see if they have any suitable screws. The Lyman website indicates they are two weeks behind in filling orders, plus they want 75 cents and $4 shipping for a screw. If I do end up ordering from them, I'll order a few more small parts to amortize the shipping.

Thanks again for all the helpful advice.

 

[Black Hand]

If the existing escutcheon screws are brass, replace them with steel (Straight-slot, not Philips). Make sure you drill a pilot hole.

 

[matt denison]

First order of business on any GPR is replace the chintzy damned escution screws with real steel ones from TOW. Just call them tell them what you want, they are familiar with the funny little crummy screws on Lyman guns.

Do it now. You will break them all over time. I know this from experience.

 

[B.Habermehl]

The last time I had to remove a broken screw I used a piece of tubeing with a bore close to the dia. of the screw. I filed saw teeth in the end of the tube and chucked it in my hand drill. The drilled down over the broken screw. Then wiggled it out and epoxied in a piece of dowel as a hole filler. The tube does not have to be steel brass works fine. Just drill a little bit at a time as chip clearence is a issue. BJH

 

[joe4702]

I ended up using a small hollow leather punch chucked in a drill to cut a "tunnel" around the screw until enough was exposed to turn it out with needle nose pliers. The punch was quite a bit larger than the screw (I didn't have any small brass tubing as suggested above), but it cut a clean hole which I can fill easily. Thanks for that idea.

I had to file the escutcheon plate quite a bit to get the front wedge pin to fit. This is what I should have done yesterday instead of trying to force it. But at least I can shoot the rifle tomorrow.

I e-mailed TOW about what replacement screws they may have available. For now, I'm going to shoot it with one screw missing.

A small off-topic rant, but I have to say I don't know what justifies the substantially higher price of the GPR over the Lyman Trade Rifle. I have a TR and the fit and finish of the GPR is no better (and neither is as well finished as two older TC rifles I have). Perhaps the popularity of the GPR commands a higher price. I do like the look of the GPR better and it certainly is a well-balanced rifle. It does not feel at all heavy when shouldered.

 

[necchi]

I don't know what justifies the substantially higher price of the GPR over the Lyman Trade Rifle.

Different barrel. Different stock fit.

 

[joe4702]

Here is the reply from TOW: (nutshell - order the screws from Lyman).

"The Great Plains Rifle uses a escutcheon screw that is about a #2 size by 3/8" long. We don't offer any unplated or blued steel screws in that size.

Our escutcheon plates use a #3 by 1/4" long screw #SCREW-3-1/4 at $0.30 each. The larger head will not fit the existing countersink, and the shorter length might not have enough "bite" in the existing hole without plugging.

Lyman has the original screws as loose parts on their website. Or good hardware store may have #2 steel wood screws. If they are plated you can burn the plating off with a propane torch.
Thank you,"

 

[longcruise]

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions.

Birddog put you right straight on the right track! I have fixed over a dozen of those. First on my own first kit and then on three that were brought to me with the scres broken off.

I use crisco on mine, but the soap seems like a better idea.

 

[GaCop]

Here is the reply from TOW: (nutshell - order the screws from Lyman).

"The Great Plains Rifle uses a escutcheon screw that is about a #2 size by 3/8" long. We don't offer any unplated or blued steel screws in that size.

Our escutcheon plates use a #3 by 1/4" long screw #SCREW-3-1/4 at $0.30 each. The larger head will not fit the existing countersink, and the shorter length might not have enough "bite" in the existing hole without plugging.

Lyman has the original screws as loose parts on their website. Or good hardware store may have #2 steel wood screws. If they are plated you can burn the plating off with a propane torch.
Thank you,"

I got lucky and found steel screws at a local Mom and Pop hardware store. Sadly, it's closed now due to Lowe's, Ace and Home Depot.

 

[joe4702]

I just went ahead an ordered a few screws from Lyman along with a few other spare parts. I also put Crisco on the other 7 screws and they definitely went back in easier, but maybe over time Crisco will soften the wood? Wonder why soap is recommended?

Range Report:
The GPR shot fantastic on the first outing. I am all over the paper with the Trade Rifle, but was amazed at the nice group with the first 5 shots from the GPR.

The group was the best I've ever shot at that distance (50 yards) with any non-scoped gun. I won't say the group size because I have bad eyes and in absolute terms the group isn't that impressive but for me and my eyes I was astounded.

I am also a thrilled the stock doesn't slap me in the face like the Trade Rifle does. It was quite comfortable shooting standing or off the bench.

It's shooting way low at 50 yards, but I was expecting that.

I'm pretty sure I got a "Monday morning" (or is it "Friday afternoon?") gun as far as fit and finish (lots of little issues here and there I won't go into). But all is forgiven based on how it shoots. I may refinish the stock and have gotten some great advice on that in another thread.

 

[necchi]

Next time someone say's use bar soap shavings to lubricate wood screws, use bar soap shavings.

 

[joe4702]

I don't think I have any bar soap around the house. Would shower gel work? :grin:

 

[DUSTY 14]

shower gel ain't bar soap. to much wet and not enough slick. stop by a hotel and they will give you one of them mini bars i bet