Bronze brush issue

[Jason holgate]

I have had several bronze brushes back out of 10/32 adapter leaving brush down barrell and thread adapter on ramrod ...who makes best quality bronze/ nylon brushes regards jason

 

[hawkeye2]

Brushes will regularly work loose in the cleaning rod while you are using them. The procedure is to turn the cleaning rod clockwise till it stops every time the brush is at the bottom of the bore. It has little to do with the quality of the brush, adapter or rod. This applies to jags and swabs too.

 

[Jason holgate]

Like this??

 

[oldwood]

Jason , the ones you pictured can be made servicable by running a little flux , , and hot solder into the porely crimped fixture , where the twisted wire brush end goes. Used to buy these kind for 50 cents , so bought many , and fixed them to hold fast w/solder. Easy fix.

 

[hawkeye2]

My mistake, from your post I was assuming that the brush assembly was unscrewing from a thread adapter screwed to your cleaning rod. The solution here is to stop using the crimped on brushes and go to the looped type, see below.

 

[Jason holgate]

Jason , the ones you pictured can be made servicable by running a little flux , , and hot solder into the porely crimped fixture , where the twisted wire brush end goes. Used to buy these kind for 50 cents , so bought many , and fixed them to hold fast w/solder. Easy fix.

Thats what i needed to hear i was gonna jb weld them all

 

[Jason holgate]

My mistake, from your post I was assuming that the brush assembly was unscrewing from a thread adapter screwed to your cleaning rod. The solution here is to stop using the crimped on brushes and go to the looped type, see below.

What brand where you buy i should have posted picture in thread topic i see how you read it the way i posted it

 

[hawkeye2]

They can be difficult to find and I don't remember where I bought any as it's been several years now.

 

[wiscoaster]

I have had several bronze brushes back out of 10/32 adapter leaving brush down barrell and thread adapter on ramrod ...who makes best quality bronze/ nylon brushes regards jason

Funny, my problem is the opposite: the bore rifling tightens the tool onto the tip such that I have to use a vise and a pliers to get it off.

 

[TechMoron]

First thing, quit using those cheap brushes. Get the ones where the coiled wire goes through a solid brass base that screws into the ramrod as shown in post #5. Those in your pix look like the god-awful TC brushes .

 

[oldwood]

Early on , I made up my mind that I would always carry one of those heavy shafted shiny cork screws to thread on my loading rod , just in case I lost some brush , shotgun wad , or whatever , down in the bore. That cork screw would pull most anything out of the bore.

 

[IanH]

I read it wrong too when first posted, I was thinking "get a cleaning rod with a bearing in the handle", or don't let it unscrew. I have never pulled a brush core out of the threaded end before and have fed many of them a hot supper cleaning unmentionables. I typically use Montana Extreme bore brushes but have also used many, many Hoppes and cheap offshore ones from those kits people seem to keep buying me for Christmas.

Lead based solder won't stick to aluminum but I bet will mechanically lock the wire in, just don't burn the brush wire with a torch. JB Weld 24-hour cure cold weld should do it.

 

[EC121]

The crimped brushes are not made to be pulled. They are for barrels where the brush can be pushed out and pulled back. They can be knocked on out of the barrel if they separate. The best way to brush a muzzleloading barrel is to use an undersized brush that is looped through the base. With a patch on them they usually fit loose enough not to pull out, and the patch helps with the cleaning.

 

[TreeMan]

In forty years of muzzleloading I’ve never ran a brush down a muzzleloader barrel. They just aren’t necessary.

 

[Ohio Rusty]

I ALWAYS use a brush Treeman. I wrap my cleaning cloth around the brush and it never comes off in the bore. I used a jag once in 1975. It was useless. It didn't clean well at all. I will use a jag as a grippy handle on the end of the cleaning rod occasionally.
Ohio Rusty ><>

 

[Relic shooter]

TIP; swivel handled cleaning / loading rod prevents lost Cleaning & loading rod tips:

It's common to hear of jags & cleaning tips becoming unscrewed in barrels of rifled firearms, particularly front-stuffers.
Simple cure is to use cleaning & range loading rods with swivel-heads.
For several decades I've used 'T' handled military surplus .50 cal. machine gun cleaning rods fitted with a sliding
tapered brass cone on the rod to protect the muzzle at the range to load & clean my .45-70 cal. muzzleloaders.
I only use my rifle or pistols' fitted ramrods while hunting.
Lost cloth cleaning patches in ML can be easily retrieved with a .22 brass bristle cleaning brush, a few turns will fetch it.
Relic shooter

 

[nkbj]

Had a brush come apart down by the breech of the forty bore fast twist in 2009.
Cut a bevel on the inside end of a piece of 3/8" brass tube and zoop, came right out.
Since then the manufacturers that create those sorry excuses for a bore brush can take a hike.
I've searched in vain for brushes that are a good quality product but nope, no luck.

 

[8Ball]

My mistake, from your post I was assuming that the brush assembly was unscrewing from a thread adapter screwed to your cleaning rod. The solution here is to stop using the crimped on brushes and go to the looped type, see below.

Yes those are the good ones.

 

[Omega Vision]

In forty years of muzzleloading I’ve never ran a brush down a muzzleloader barrel. They just aren’t necessary.

I've purchased a-lot of muzzleloaders where the owners thought the gun no longer shoots well.
Turns out that 90% of the barrels had rifling land & grooves filled with lead, copper, plastic and old powder.... most-all because the prior owners spent the last 20 years-or-so cleaning the barrels with a jag (and/or) used the wrong cleaners in the barrel (and/or) used conical or roundball patch lubes that did not remove the gunk 100% using a jag.

Soap & water doesn't cut it. Neither does Dawn Liquid Detergent. Neither does the typical jags being sold in muzzleloader aisles today. Nobody shooting lead or copper wants to use a centerfire cleaner in muzzleloader barrels. But that's what works best.... along with a bore brush. I even recommend brushes in shallow grooved inline muzzleloaders.

I've purchased many traditionals at online auction houses sight-unseen and restored 90% of em' to being good shooters again.

It was a nice past-time hobby for me 10-20 years ago. I would-then re-sell them at $100 profit..... not a dime more. Some of those Hawkens I sold were worth a-lot more than what I resold them for. I wasn't in the ML restore hobby business to get rich. I just wanted to clean them-up and resell.... making the next buyer a happy camper at the gun range - for less cost than buying a new ML.

 

[Mad L]

I have had several bronze brushes back out of 10/32 adapter leaving brush down barrell and thread adapter on ramrod ...who makes best quality bronze/ nylon brushes regards jason

You got some good info here, even if some does not address your exact issue.

So here is the deal to the point: When you run the brush (even a jag) down a muzzleloader RIFLE, the rifling grooves Turn the brush (adapter in your case) Counterclockwise, it Unscrews your end from the rod.
Same as when you Pull it out it Tightens it!

Simple 'fix'; turn your Rod Clockwise as you run it down the barrel!
That problem solved HOWEVER you will then have brushes and jags that need a pair of pliers to get them off.
..think about it...

Now, here is my simple take on the whole thing...bear with me for I am going to tip toe forum rules for a moment; it is required to explain -
Go watch some videos (youtube, rumble, etc) on how to clean 'Unmentionables'; pick a model and brand. Rifle or pistol - search for videos by so-called "Professionals", "Expert Competition Shooters", and best by Owners/Workers of actual 'Unmentionable' Firing Ranges especially ones that Rent firearms.

Note that the instructions they give for cleaning the Barrel: the Brush/Jag/Mop go down the barrel from Breach-to-Muzzle (ie: the way the Ammunition travels). Once through you Remove the Brush (or patch from jag), pull the rod out, if needed then Reattach brush and run through again Breach to Muzzle.
Even the modern 'Snake' device cleaner: you run it from Breach to Muzzle and pull it out, Repeat. You do Not run into the barrel and start yanking it back and forth like you flossing your teeth!! (Thou I am sure some do...oh well).

"Breach to Muzzle", exit repeat. Prevents damaging the rifling and having parts come unscrewed and 'stuck' in the barrel....and of course a lot of Modern rods have a swivel in them: NOT to prevent unscrewing but to Reduce scoring of barrel especially when using brass brushes!

Now, back to Muzzleloaders (if Mods have not already backhanded me):
We cant Not run a jag down breach to muzzle, not without pulling the breach! So what we gonna do???

Stop treating a muzzleloader like an unmentionable: if you need Scubbing power then use tow, find a 'patch and jag' combo that fits Your barrel properly (not too tight, not too loose) and Always Clean after shooting (not waiting til tomorrow or next week after the crud had set up, hardened, etc).

I ditched the 'brush' some time ago, I have always known about brushes/jags Unscrewing on the way In and Tightening on way Out.
Personally I have found that the proper tools and Proper technique for each firearm saves great headache, damage, and is actually very ineresting to think about as I caress each one squeaky and rust free clean.

But, if you want to keep with brush, then Turn the rod Clockwise running it down the barrel...and prepared for the 'stripped threads' as you fight getting it back out: brushes are not actually designed to pull back out the way they went in....simple as that.
Use the correct tools, or reinvent the wheel (some reinventions work, some don't, some are more trouble then they are worth)

My two and a quarter cents, and, think about it, it makes sense.