Brown Small Parts or Not on Mountain Rifle (Just posted some put together pics)

[ronaldrothb49]

myself I fire blue the screws, wedges, triggers, generally the small parts. It creates a little bit of a contrast. Considering you already browned them I would leave it alone looks fine. My first rifle MANY years ago was a CVA Mountain Rifle kit. After it got retired I refinished it correcting the mistakes and then artificially striped the stock. Hung it on the wall of the club house at a shoot with a note stating it was a fake stripe. It found a new home within an hour.

 

[Ballshooter]

Very nice looking rifle. Nice work. Is that original wood? I do like the ram rod ferrels in the white. Gives it a nice accent next to the brown barrel.

Original wood but the figure was painted, it turned out very nicely.

 

[Hawk54]

Looks great! What browning brand and procedure did you use?

Track of the Wolf browning solution. It was my first time browning anything so it was a little trial and error to start. Wear gloves and eye protection. The solution is an acid. Baking soda will neutralize it.

I cleaned and sanded all the metal. Degrease everything well with acetone (it dries immediately). Doing a thorough job degreasing is very important for a good outcome. Put a coat of browning solution on with a cotton ball. Q Tip in hard to get areas or small pieces. An hour later put another light coat on. Put even light coats on. Let it sit for at least twelve hours. I initially tried using 0000 steel wool to remove the surface oxidation but got a little over zealous and removed too much. If you use the 0000 steel wool be gentle and only take the surface oxidation off. I ended up using paper towel to remove the oxidation. Worked fine and didn't remove too much. Clean oxidation residue off the parts and repeat the cotton ball and solution steps. If you run into a spot the solution isn't working you may have not gotten it degreased correctly there. Use the acetone again. It will not hurt the browning process and will remove the oily spot ( I had a spot like that) It will look a little splotchy to start but evens out with repeated treatments. Keep repeating until you get a uniform desired color. Humidity helps the solution work faster. Make sure the humidity is getting to all the parts evenly. If using a humidifier hang or suspend the parts so all surfaces are exposed all over helps to get equal oxidation on all sides. After I got the color I wanted I neutralized the parts. I washed all the parts in baking soda and hot water. Neutralizes the browning solution. Stops the rusting process. I then dried the parts by hand using a soft cloth and then heat gun. I then warmed all the parts to about 140 degrees with the heat gun. I applied a coat of 5W30 motor oil to all the parts while warm and let them hang for a couple of days (motor oil isn't a penetrating oil). Wipe off the oil and assemble.

 

[fishmusic]

Track of the Wolf browning solution. It was my first time browning anything so it was a little trial and error to start. Wear gloves and eye protection. The solution is an acid. Baking soda will neutralize it.

I cleaned and sanded all the metal. Degrease everything well with acetone (it dries immediately). Doing a thorough job degreasing is very important for a good outcome. Put a coat of browning solution on with a cotton ball. Q Tip in hard to get areas. An hour later put another light coat on. Put even light coats on. Let it sit for at least twelve hours. I initially tried using 0000 steel wool to remove the surface oxidation but got a little over zealous and removed too much. If you use the 0000 steel wool be gentle and only take the surface oxidation off. I ended up using paper towel to remove the oxidation. Worked fine and didn't remove too much. Clean oxidation residue off the parts and repeat the cotton ball and solution steps. If you run into a spot the solution isn't working you may have not gotten it degreased correctly there. Use the acetone again. It will not hurt the browning process and will remove the oily spot ( I had a spot like that) It will look a little splotchy to start but evens out with repeated treatments. Keep repeating until you get a uniform desired color. Humidity helps the solution work faster. Make sure the humidity is getting to all the parts evenly. If using a humidifier hang the or suspend the parts so all surfaces are exposed helps. After I got the color I wanted I neutralized the solution. I washed all the parts in baking soda and hot water. Neutralizes the browning solution. Stops the rusting process. I then dried the parts by hand using a soft cloth and then heat gun. I then warmed all the parts to about 140 degrees with the heat gun. I applied a coat of 5W30 motor oil to all the parts while warm and let them hang for a couple of days (motor oil isn't a penetrating oil). Wipe off the oil and assemble.

I have used old jeans for carding off the rust flakes. Works well. Nice job on the barrel. The gun looks great.

 

[BozoMiller]

Looks good as is, leave it.

 

[Paul Nelson]

Well I put it together to see what I think and I may just leave it like it is. Vast improvement over what it was like when I bought it. The barrel was rusty and the stock was dented and dinged with patches of finish gone. Was really light colored wood. Sanded it down and stained it with American walnut and then coats of boiled linseed oil. There is a little difference in the rod ferrels but that gives it some accent like the escutcheons. I have a new hickory ramrod from TOTW that I haven't cut to length and stained yet. What do you think? Leave it as is?

You did a great job! I would say it’s ready for the range. It sure will turn heads!

 

[FfREEROBERT12]

One reason the rear sight was slightly different is that the sights are heat treated and tempered so they have some spring in them to keep tension on the adjustment screw. I never would Brown a spring. Everything else though. Depending on where you live you can let the humidity natural brown. Gun parts. It takes longer but I think it is a better finish

I live 3 blks from river and ocean, rainy now. Polish barrel, degrease and hang outside, shouldn't take to long right?

 

[flconch53]

Should start seeing some results in a week. Just steel wool of the rust and let it go. I would oil the inside of the barrel real well first though.

 

[FfREEROBERT12]

Just steel wool of the rust and let it go? Meaning at what point? Thanks

 

[flconch53]

Just steel wool the rust off to keep the barrel somewhat smooth. Depending on the humidity I can't say how often.

 

[FfREEROBERT12]

Just steel wool the rust off to keep the barrel somewhat smooth. Depending on the humidity I can't say how often.

Thanks

 

[ord sgt]

With the screws, I fire blue them. I will dip the screw head in motor oil and then burn off the oil with a propane torch. That gives a nice finish to the head of the screw or bolt. The rest of the small parts get rust browned unless those parts are brass. The brass is left to darken through use and age.

 

[Hawk54]

Just steel wool of the rust and let it go? Meaning at what point? Thanks

Make sure you degrease everything real well. Acetone works very well for that. Let all the metal become completely covered with rust. If you use steel wool use 0000 and be very gentle and remove only the surface oxidation. Rub too hard and you will take most all the oxidation off and be back down to bare metal. Blue jean material, coarse paper towel, or similar material works and won't scrub it down too far.

 

[garypl]

Looks good - go shoot it!

 

[windini]

I think you made it a fine-looking rifle!

+1 on what @garypl said!