Brown vs. Blued barrels

[WAswingingfly]

I've been wondering for a while now which of these finishes offers better corrosion resistance any thoughts?

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

I'd say about the same. They're both controlled forms of rust. Brown looks better though.

 

[mooman76]

Take care of your guns and either should do equally well. Taking care meaning clean and oil good each time you shoot and if you don't shoot for a long time, clean and reoil. A good coat of oil on the metal marts. If you live in a harsher climate like near the coast, you may need something heavier.

 

[Vaino]

It depends on what kind of brown or blue is on the bbl. I brown all my builds w/ LMF which yields an etched matte finish which captures the lube and also, seeing browning is neutralized rust, it won't rust again. If the LMF brown is boiled in water, it turns blue and the same would apply.

Some browns and blues are smooth and shiny and these would rust more readily....although not as easily as an "in the white" bbl....a third option.....Fred

 

[coloradoclyde]

Browning is often a rougher finish because it is rust...I prefer the looks of blue....
But the most corrosion resistant barrel I have is one in the white that I treated with an acid...I think I sort of half parkerized it and half converted it to magnetite...It spends most of it's time abused outside, I only oil it once or twice a year. I have only found rust on it once...I did the same to a hawken and it hasn't rusted either.....

Browning can be hard to neutralize and tell when it's rusting...If you wipe the barrel with a white rag and it turns brown it's rusting....

There are big differences in browning and bluing techniques..

 

[coloradoclyde]

I've been wondering for a while now which of these finishes offers better corrosion resistance any thoughts?

Passivation whether it's browning blueing or whatever...is only a few microns thick. How you clean and protect the gun is important because that microscopic layer can be easily removed exposing bare metal that you cant see with the naked eye....Bare metal (metal that isn't passivated) will rust.

 

[M. De Land]

I used to do quite a bit of hot acid bluing but after starting the Niedner rust bluing process and Laurel Mountain Forge Browning I gave up the the modern method.
It takes longer but both rust bluing and browning are superior against wear and corrosion.
Not even close.
The Niedner rust blue is the best I have ever found for durability and looks.
Once you get it right, nothing else looks quite right on a quality arm, shot gun, rifle or hand gun.
I've been doing the LMF brown on several black powder cartridge rifles lately just to be different and it really looks nice with a good case color job on the receiver.

 

[Cowboy]

I used to do quite a bit of hot acid bluing but after starting the Niedner rust bluing process

The Niedner rust blue is the best I have ever found for durability and looks.
Once you get it right, nothing else looks quite right on a quality arm, shot gun, rifle or hand gun.

Okay M.D., What is Niedner rust bluing and what is the process you're talking about? I've never heard of it before? :youcrazy:

Respectfully, Cowboy

 

[M. De Land]

Thomas Shelhammer worked for Niedner gun works in Dowagiac Michigan in the 40s and 50s and came up with this method of rust bluing that was one of the best ever.
I found the solution recipe in Roy Dunlops book of Gunsmithing with a detailed discription of how to apply it.
The solution has both Nitric and Hydrocholric acid diluted into distilled water with iron wire added which is completely dissolved by the acid action.
It really bites into the gun steel and leaves the most beautiful dark brown,( almost black) finish with a very slight matt to it. It looks both fluid and satin at the same time.
I won't use any other blue finish on any of the guns I build.
The gun parts have to be boiled in between three hour applications then carded and it is very sensitive to any oil so ever thing has to be done with clean cloth gloves but when finished it is just about bullet proof for wear and corrosion protection.
I suspect the slight matt finish it leaves holds gun oil very well and is probably largely responsible for the corrosion resistance.

 

[Archer 756]

:hmm: Interesting about brown or blue, was always known that HOT BLUING was done on the finish of guns ($$$) such as made by HOLLAN & HOLLAN cold bluing is OK , but hot bluing is $$$ to do.

 

[TFoley]

I used that beautiful finish, not on a gun, but of the frames of a 5" gauge tank locomotive I built back in the 1970s'. 'Living', as it does, in a hot and oily environment seems to have done it the world of good - the loco is still happily running around yet, hauling people on a little track somewhere in North Wales. AFAIK it has never been rebuilt from the footplate down, just the usual ten-year boiler retubing et al.

I fully concur with your opinion - done properly it is a wonderful finish for an older style gun of any kind.

tac

 

[Cowboy]

Thanks for the reply as well as the education!

Respectfully, Cowboy :thumbsup:

 

[M. De Land]

Hot bluing is generally characterized by hot acid bluing not the rust bluing I'm describing.
Hollands and most other high end guns use rust bluing in general as it is the premium bluing finish.
It cost two or three times more because of the time it takes but nothing else can match it's looks or performance when correctly applied and finished.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Another option is barrel blackening. Basically, go through the cold brown process, apply dirty heavy motor oil, and then torch it a couple of times to burn it and turn it black. Very durable finish.

Another option is graying, though not very rust resistant at all. Use cold blue, and then knock it back with 4-O steel wool. Some folks use a combination of graying the lock, and another finish for the barrel. The brighter the finish, the more the flaws will show though

 

[nhmoose]

Never heard of hot acidic blue.

Hot caustic blue yes. Blued a couple hundred thousand barrels for manufactures using that.

Now on ML I like the LMF rust bluing and use it on un-mentionable shotgun barrels turning them black by boiling between coats.

 

[coloradoclyde]

Oh ya!....When steel is made it is dunked in a hot acid to passivate it.....That's why when you buy a piece of new steel it is black instead of being all rusty.

 

[M. De Land]

Yes, you are quite correct caustic bluing salts dissolved in distilled water.
I used Oxnate # 7 for over 30 years but never did like the mess it was to deal with although it was one of the best hot black finishes I ever saw. It was especially good when applied to steel that had been glass beaded.
Hot acid bluing is not the technically correct term,I am corrected.

 

[rushlake1]

I'd say about the same. They're both controlled forms of rust. Brown looks better though.

This is true iffin.... you like the color of a chocolate candy bar.....
Many more finishes to chose from.....go on line and type in "flintlock rifle pictures"..and enjoy the variations of finishes.
Like the above post... its all personal appeal...
its your gun its your choice...Enjoy.

 

[rushlake1]

Hot bluing is generally characterized by hot acid bluing not the rust bluing I'm describing.
Hollands and most other high end guns use rust bluing in general as it is the premium bluing finish.
It cost two or three times more because of the time it takes but nothing else can match it's looks or performance when correctly applied and finished.

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Well put M.D... you knocked that one out of the park too.

We only rust blued the high end double shoties due to the barrels beaning soldiered together..
Time well spent..

 

[RedFeather]

H&H, as well as other double barreled gun builders, used rust bluing so as not to melt the rib solder between the barrels. I agree, it does make for a nice blue.