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Brownells Oxpho-blue ???

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Dont have anyone local that hot blues anymore, so I am going to cold blue for now.

Reading online, it seems like the Brownells Oxpho-blue is well respected. What's y,all thoughts ?
 
I've used oxpho blue on a variety of projects. The gel is easier to use. My own technique is to apply a liberal coat of gel to the surface to be blued let it set a while, then periodically stirring it with a small brush until the oxpho turns a billous green. Wipe the oxpho off and find a decent blue. Repeat if you think it necessary. Some say oxpho works better if the steel is warmed.
 
It is the best of the cold blues. But why not learn how to do slow rust bluing?

It can be steamed rather than boiled, and is a simple process. If you have questions, I can help walk you through it.
 
I found Oxpho best suited to small parts, like screws. Get a small plastic or paper cup. Put in enough bluing to cover the screws or whatever. After 30 seconds, remove, and rinse. Wipe off residue with paper towel, and repeat a couple more times. Then oil.
 
I like the Oxpho cold blue, it's not as good a hot or rust blue, but it's the best cold blue IMO. Follow the directions and after a couple applications wipe it with an oily rag to see where you're at.
 
I use it. I degrease, warm the part, apply the blue with green scotch brite or degreased steel. Scrub it in wet. It will make a decent even black. For screws, sights and other small parts I heat to just starting to glow red and submerge in canola oil.
 
It is the best of the cold blues. But why not learn how to do slow rust bluing?

It can be steamed rather than boiled, and is a simple process. If you have questions, I can help walk you through it.

Thanks for the great offer. Waksupi. I had not considered slow rust because of the boiling.
 
I was happy with Oxpho-blue on a blunderbuss kit barrel I did.

But then I learned to hot/rust blue... MUCH happier with the results! (But it is a heck of a lot more work.)
 
If you want to get a long lasting deep blue/black color do the following.

Get some 00 and 0000 steel wool and wash a few pads with degreaser and let them dry. Clean and degrease your rifle barrel and other parts. Using the Gel bluing agent, dip a piece of steel wool in the get and apply to the rifle or parts. Card in between coats lightly with 0000 steel wool.

After you have finished, wash rifle well with a degreaser and then apply a high sulfur oil to the metal. Wipe off access and after a couple days, wipe down the parts with paper towels and then wipe parts with a silicone rag.

You now have a nice looking cold blue job.
 
I like it for giving a barrel and lock that aged look by rubbing it back in spots to remove some of it after the finial application. It does not last but it is WAY much better than most of the cold blue out there. It's okay on small parts like screws. I prefer to rust blue if I am going for that blue/black color on a gun. It is much more durable and really not that much work involved to do it.
 
Thanks for the great offer. Waksupi. I had not considered slow rust because of the boiling.
You can get around the boiling easy. I use a couple sections of stove pipe, with a piece of plywood over the end, with a couple wire hooks to hold barrel and whatever. Small screws can just be dropped in the boiling pot the stove pipe gets set in. I use a propane burner for the heat, although I suppose an electric hot plate would work. the steam needs to continue 25 minutes for complete conversion.
 
One important tip I'll pass along when using Oxpho Blue Gel. Make SURE you NEVER put the part you want to blue in the bottle as you will quickly contaminate and ruin the bottle. Also, ONLY dip brand new clean Q Tips in the bottle ONE TIME ONLY and never a second time. Just throw the once used Q Tips away and grab a fresh one every time you use it. That way the Oxpho Blue will be good all the way the last drop in the bottle.

Gus
 
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