Hello everyone. I am in the process of building a Traditions Kentucky rifle. I am using Laurel Mountain Browning solution to brown the barrel and the lock. I am having all sorts of trouble. I have already started over on the barrel once and I am going to have to start over again. The first time I got a shiny copper look after I applied the second coat. This time I have large portions of black mixed in with the brown. The lock plate and cocking lever are not rusting hardly at all and yes I did remove the bluing on those parts. Any tricks or tips to make this go smoother would be most appreciated. Thanks.
Browning a barrel
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don hepler
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Follow instructions, and apply light coat, let it rust. It will be red with rust. I use duck cloth, to wipe it down, then add some more. A lot depends on humidity. The more humid the more rust.
I done a TC, a few months back, and it turned as dark as a Hershey bar, Using the same thing that you are using.
That copper means, it's being applied to heavy. Just barely wipe, without applying any pressure.
I done a TC, a few months back, and it turned as dark as a Hershey bar, Using the same thing that you are using.
That copper means, it's being applied to heavy. Just barely wipe, without applying any pressure.
Is the humidity low where you are trying to brown? It is about 10* outside, inside once heated the air might be super dry. IF so you will have trouble. Try suspending it over a bath tub of tepid water.
Do not over polish. A lighly sand blasted surface works best of me. Go over that with burgundy scotchbrite. In any case I would not go finer than #220 paper. This is important, many guys over polish. The etching action of browning will leave a matt texture anyway.
If all else fails try Birchwood Casey Plumb brown. I have had universally good luck with it. It will require ventilation. That may be a problem with it so cold out.
You could cold blue for now and brown it in the spring.
Do not over polish. A lighly sand blasted surface works best of me. Go over that with burgundy scotchbrite. In any case I would not go finer than #220 paper. This is important, many guys over polish. The etching action of browning will leave a matt texture anyway.
If all else fails try Birchwood Casey Plumb brown. I have had universally good luck with it. It will require ventilation. That may be a problem with it so cold out.
You could cold blue for now and brown it in the spring.
Over polishing is definitely part of my problem. I am running a hot shower and a heater before applying and keeping the heater going as it is 60 degrees in my basement bathroom. I went with laurel mountain because of the heating factor using Plum brown. Thanks for the advice. I will remove the rust and rough the surface up before I try again.
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jkjohnson ,
Humidity or ambient air moisture is a key factor. I always use a humidity containment. Suspend the barrel and components over a tray of water. Then using coat hanger wire or something similar make a cage (nothing fancy) so you can also keep a damp cloth over the work. You need to keep the cloth wet, but don't let it drip on the work. Old bath towel is good.
Flintloclar :wink:
Humidity or ambient air moisture is a key factor. I always use a humidity containment. Suspend the barrel and components over a tray of water. Then using coat hanger wire or something similar make a cage (nothing fancy) so you can also keep a damp cloth over the work. You need to keep the cloth wet, but don't let it drip on the work. Old bath towel is good.
Flintloclar :wink:
don hepler
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I put in on with cotton swab. I use the duck cloth to just wipe off the loose rust. Just wipe enough to remove the red flaky stuff, then it will be brownish. You can put a little distilled water to determine what the finished results will look like.
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Hang the barrel up in the bathroom, let the shower drip, and add a heat source to the room.
Tell the Mrs. she has to use the other bathroom for a couple of days. :stir:
Worked for me. Works even better if you take her out to dinner for putting up with it.
Tell the Mrs. she has to use the other bathroom for a couple of days. :stir:
Worked for me. Works even better if you take her out to dinner for putting up with it.
Don Steele
45 Cal.
"Works even better if you take her out to dinner for putting up with it."
:rotf: :rotf: :rotf:
Thanks for the chuckle..!!! :thumbsup:
:rotf: :rotf: :rotf:
Thanks for the chuckle..!!! :thumbsup:
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Some folks make a box with a tray in the bottom and add a light bulb for heat.
Col. Batguano
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What grit did you polish your barrel to? If you go much finer than 220, or 320 for sure, the solution won't have a good surface to grab on to to do its' work. The end result is that it will be very spotty where it gets going, and you'll have to wait a fairly long time for the rest of it to catch up. As a result, the places were it got going early wind up REALLY rusting and to some extent, wind up getting pitted. The net result from a finer polished barrel is a rougher finish in the end. rather counter-intuitive.
So what you want, is mild polishing, and a warm humid place (be sure to lather up the bore with oil or grease too) like the shower, humidity box, etc where it can hang.
Check it often, and card it well often. And, when you think it needs it, then do it. No procrastinating. Some times the difference between before dinner and after dinner is the difference between a really nice finish, and just an ok one.
So what you want, is mild polishing, and a warm humid place (be sure to lather up the bore with oil or grease too) like the shower, humidity box, etc where it can hang.
Check it often, and card it well often. And, when you think it needs it, then do it. No procrastinating. Some times the difference between before dinner and after dinner is the difference between a really nice finish, and just an ok one.
I went with laurel mountain because of the heating factor using Plum brown.
Why? The heat needed, 250*, won't hurt anything. I use two propane torches, one in each hand. Fun! set the barrel on two solid objects, bricks?, using a tang extension and barrel plug. It is much faster and reliable than a slow rust if you live in a dry area. You will not need to make a sweat box or gunk up the bathroom.
Why? The heat needed, 250*, won't hurt anything. I use two propane torches, one in each hand. Fun! set the barrel on two solid objects, bricks?, using a tang extension and barrel plug. It is much faster and reliable than a slow rust if you live in a dry area. You will not need to make a sweat box or gunk up the bathroom.
When i did mine many years ago, I made a humidity box out of cardboard boxes and was just very patient. I recall putting cups of steaming hot water in the box every couple hours.
It was very cold that winter and the humidity was naturally low otherwise.
Jim
It was very cold that winter and the humidity was naturally low otherwise.
Jim
You can get all kinds of rewards for that move :hatsoff: :wink:Ames said:
Fred
I wait for a normal Alabama high humidity day and put my stuff outside next to a roof covered archery target. You don't want any dew to run off your stuff as it will make a line in your browning.
One overnight stay gets the rust boiling big time with LMF. After that first night I move the pieces into an unheated garage for further treatment with LMF and subsequent carding.
Where I live there is no need for a hot box to rust things, mother nature does the job just fine.
One overnight stay gets the rust boiling big time with LMF. After that first night I move the pieces into an unheated garage for further treatment with LMF and subsequent carding.
Where I live there is no need for a hot box to rust things, mother nature does the job just fine.
Really nice job!
Fred
Fred
The shinny copper means your patch or whatever was to wet with the solution and it will then take more coats after rusting.jkjohnson said:
Did you sand the lockplate with 220 paper? I have found you get much better rusting if you use this grit and nothing finer.
You have to make only one pass at a time with your swab when applying LMF, If you go back for another pass you will get the copper color every time.
It is better to leave a small place blank than to go back and try to fill it in. You can catch it upon the next treatment.
You have to make only one pass at a time with your swab when applying LMF, If you go back for another pass you will get the copper color every time.
It is better to leave a small place blank than to go back and try to fill it in. You can catch it upon the next treatment.
