Browning a barrel

[Vaino]

I've always used LMF and like the reddish brown color and what I call a medium texture. The browning process using LMF is easy if sparse applications are applied. It doesn't take much LMF to achieve the desired color and texture. I usually applied 3 or possibly 4 coats of LMF depending on the ambient humidity which can be controlled if a "sweat box" is used. The bbl shown is what was the preferred color and texture.

To shut down the rusting process, ammonia was used which is more reliable and quicker than baking soda.....Fred

 

[Mulebrain]

I like LMF, works great in humid conditions. If it aint humid enough you can steam it in the shower, and secure the bathroom door. Close up all ventilation as well.

 

[1BadDart]

I used Danglers on my .40 build.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I've used Wahkon Bay browning solution in my browning oven (AKA my minivan). In the summer, it can reach 150 degrees in the van with the notorious Missouri humidity. Only takes a few applications and you have a very dark brown on the metal parts. Follow the usual practices to stop the browning process once you have the color you want.

My one experience with Birchwood Casey's Plumb Brown turned out good. The brown was reddish and even after several applications. I think the formula has changed since I used the Plumb Brown over 30 years ago.

 

[user 34300]

I think the formula has changed since I used the Plumb Brown over 30 years ago.
Yes, is used to contain mercuric chloride. It is a good thing that it was taken out. MC is a powerful neurotoxin. For real.....

 

[Kentuckyjed]

Plum Brown works good for me, like the others said just follow directions. When I am done with the browning I rinse the barrel with warm/hot water, wipe it off, and the take some bore butter in my hand and slather it all over the warm barrel, rub it in real good with your hand. Then I let it cool, and wipe it down with a clean rag and you are set. Always helps with cold adult beverage afterward.