Browning a hardened and tempered frizzen

How should I go about browing a frizzen after it is already been hardened and tempered with out altering its temper? All the stuff I have come across for browning require the part be hot enough to sizzle when applied. "Plumb brown"

 

[Zonie]

If you are going to use Plum Brown (as I often do) yes, you will have to heat the part to a temperature hotter than boiling water (212 degrees F). In fact, it works best if the part is heated to about 275 or 280 degrees before the solution is applied.

This temperature is below the tempering temperatures (400-430 degrees F) for steel so there should be no concern about it's effects on the steels hardness.

If you are really concerned and don't want to take a chanch, you can set the oven to 275-300 and allow the part to come up to temperature in it. Rapidly removing the part and applying the solution will do the job.

The only negative in doing this this way is that the solution gives off fumes which contain Mercury and as we all know, Mercury is not the best thing for our bodies.

These fumes are the main reason I always tell people to use this stuff outside the house.
I suppose if you had the door to the outside open when you apply the Plum Brown it might not cause the dog to go nuts. :grin: Then again, I can't predict what the effects on your spouse will be. :grin: :grin:

(As a side note, the phrase "Mad as a Hatter" comes from the use of Mercury in making hats in the 18th and 19th century. It did effect their minds in most unpleasent ways, but we are talking about rather large doses.)

 

[Swamp Buck]

I have used BC Plumb Brown before and the temperature used to apply it is only around 275 deg F. I believe this is a low enough temperature that it will have no effect on the temper of the frizzen. Others reading this post response, please let me know if I'm wrong.

I have thought about using BC Plumb Brown on the lock parts myself - my only question is whether the face of the frizzen is ever browned.

 

[jerrywh]

The temperature of 275 will not hurt the frizzen or change any of it's characteristics BUT YOU ARE ABOUT TO LEARN THAT CASE HARDENED PARTS DO NOT BROWN VERY GOOD AT ALL.

 

[LRB]

BC changed their formula years ago. As far as I know, there is no longer mercury in it. The old formula did a better job than the new. With the old formula, I found that you got a much more even finish by appling it cold then heating the part. The new does not seem to work this way.

 

[Birddog6]

Get some Tru-Brown or Laurel Mountain browning solution. Clean the Frizzen real well (I use Brake Drum Cleaner) Get a large plastic jar (I use a large plastic biscotti jar or a prezel jar) & put a wet rag in the bottom of it. Put a wire on the frizzen & drill a small hole in the lid of the jar & take the wire up thru the lid & make a loop on the outside & suspend the frizzen in midair in the jar. Wet the frizzen with the solution, suspend it in the jar & set it in the sun in the window sill......... It will brown, remove & card it as needed & then neutralize it & seal it up with some wax. Here is a photo of a tang I was browning a few years ago & it was very cool & dry out.

:thumbsup:

 

[ladysmithtrading]

I have browned several case hardened locks and hammers on T/C'S and Tradiditions guns, I first start by using a the wire wheel on my dremel, this helps to take off some of the color layer, then clean well with auto brake cleaner as a degreaser, then a final clean with acetate or lacquer thinner, and I use a cold browm from MSM, works like a champ! havnt had any problems with case hardened pieces looking good! Good Luck!