cva 12 gauge double barrel

[Wv_mingo327]

First off let me thank each and everyone for all the reply’s and all the help and knowledge offered. I did end up picking up the CVA (i’ll upload some pics soon i’m on my way to work) I didn’t pay full asking price , stopped back bye the shop that had it and the owner wasn’t in but I looked it over a little better this time and asked the younger guy working the counter if they could do any better on price he looked at the tag with some random letters on it ( i assume some kind a code to let them know what they have invested in each piece they have ) told me he could do 450$ out the door! i actually got out the door with it and two new CVA ol reliable nipples and a tin of remington #11 caps. they didn’t have any shot or wads or shot cards tho. my biggest thing i noticed was i ask if i may use there gauge and measure the bore myself this go around, i was using what appeared to be typical triangle bore gauge (on internet there sold as tad cash brand i do believe or colt ? ) but when measure both barrels it reads 73 which is 0.730 i assume. no where near the first measurement the owner gave i an going to get a caliper and measure deeper in the barrel if anyone thinks that will benefit me but from what i gather than would make both barrels cylinder bore? i got this to mostly small game hunt with rabbits, squirrels, possibly grouse. i know i need to set up and work up a load but my question now is can i use standers lead from a typical 12 gauge shell given i measured my powder and shot accordingly as no one around carries shot was thinking of making some homemade shot wads and cards if this would work. and one other thing would it be worth it to possibly entertain the idea of jug choking? i have read a little about it i’m use to having a decent full choke and #5 for squirrels for some of our high up timber here in WV.

 

[R Ellis]

You did well at that price .I have a CVA double 12 and have used it for over 30 years with no problems . Also you can order everything you need from online suppliers . Enjoy your new to you gun

 

[2 shots]

sorry this went to wrong post ... my bad. i told myself over 50 years ago when i started that if i ever lost a deer i would never shoot at another one. i meant it too. it makes me take careful aim and not take risky or running shots. 71 and still hunting ,so.....

 

[Old Shepherd]

I just received 50# of shot at the Post office last Friday. I got one bag of #5 and one bag of 7.5. I got them from Precision Reloading in Mitchell SD. If you go this route the cheapest freight is by USPS for only $20.00 because it fits in the $20.00 box. I think the shot was $53.00 a bag. I know that is ridiculous and should be about $8.00 a bag or so. But gas isn't .48 a gal anymore either. At least they had it in stock. When I need wads I go through Ballistic Products anymore. They are Circle Fly brand that used to be everywhere, but not even Dixie Gun Works had any in stock the last time I checked.
Old Shepherd

 

[Century to late]

First off let me thank each and everyone for all the reply’s and all the help and knowledge offered. I did end up picking up the CVA (i’ll upload some pics soon i’m on my way to work) I didn’t pay full asking price , stopped back bye the shop that had it and the owner wasn’t in but I looked it over a little better this time and asked the younger guy working the counter if they could do any better on price he looked at the tag with some random letters on it ( i assume some kind a code to let them know what they have invested in each piece they have ) told me he could do 450$ out the door! i actually got out the door with it and two new CVA ol reliable nipples and a tin of remington #11 caps. they didn’t have any shot or wads or shot cards tho. my biggest thing i noticed was i ask if i may use there gauge and measure the bore myself this go around, i was using what appeared to be typical triangle bore gauge (on internet there sold as tad cash brand i do believe or colt ? ) but when measure both barrels it reads 73 which is 0.730 i assume. no where near the first measurement the owner gave i an going to get a caliper and measure deeper in the barrel if anyone thinks that will benefit me but from what i gather than would make both barrels cylinder bore? i got this to mostly small game hunt with rabbits, squirrels, possibly grouse. i know i need to set up and work up a load but my question now is can i use standers lead from a typical 12 gauge shell given i measured my powder and shot accordingly as no one around carries shot was thinking of making some homemade shot wads and cards if this would work. and one other thing would it be worth it to possibly entertain the idea of jug choking? i have read a little about it i’m use to having a decent full choke and #5 for squirrels for some of our high up timber here in WV.

Congratulations! Now go and have fun.

 

[Blackpowderart]

@TransYank what parts did yoy use to get the trigger pull down on the pedersoli? I have some from the mid 90s and early 2000 and one in bought new in 2019. The older ones have stiffer springs and triggers. The newest one is how I wish they all felt. Good thing is
I can swap barrels if i want. I polished them
Up so their is no binding of any kind and lubed them up good. Made a world of difference.

 

[TransYank]

@TransYank what parts did yoy use to get the trigger pull down on the pedersoli? I have some from the mid 90s and early 2000 and one in bought new in 2019. The older ones have stiffer springs and triggers. The newest one is how I wish they all felt. Good thing is
I can swap barrels if i want. I polished them
Up so their is no binding of any kind and lubed them up good. Made a world of difference.

To lighten the trigger pull in the Pedersoli SxS. First thing remove the lock main spring. Then you can cock the hammer back and pull trigger without damage to its self. I found the excessive trigger pull was being caused by the sear spring being very hard to overcome. on the first one I ordered a set of replacement sear springs from TOW and filed them to be narrower which in turn reduced tension.(kept the original springs to put back in gun if needed) worked out perfect. On the second gun I just filed down the original springs and never looked back. Also, I do a lite stoning on all internal parts and lube. I like my double guns around 4-6 lb of pull weight. Hope that helps.

 

[PEARL DRUMS]

Enjoy! I have the same gun. It goes bang every time I pull a trigger. I replaced the main springs because it’s cheap and easy. Made the locks feel and act much better.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

First off let me thank each and everyone for all the reply’s and all the help and knowledge offered. I did end up picking up the CVA (i’ll upload some pics soon i’m on my way to work) I didn’t pay full asking price , stopped back bye the shop that had it and the owner wasn’t in but I looked it over a little better this time and asked the younger guy working the counter if they could do any better on price he looked at the tag with some random letters on it ( i assume some kind a code to let them know what they have invested in each piece they have ) told me he could do 450$ out the door! i actually got out the door with it and two new CVA ol reliable nipples and a tin of remington #11 caps. they didn’t have any shot or wads or shot cards tho. my biggest thing i noticed was i ask if i may use there gauge and measure the bore myself this go around, i was using what appeared to be typical triangle bore gauge (on internet there sold as tad cash brand i do believe or colt ? ) but when measure both barrels it reads 73 which is 0.730 i assume. no where near the first measurement the owner gave i an going to get a caliper and measure deeper in the barrel if anyone thinks that will benefit me but from what i gather than would make both barrels cylinder bore? i got this to mostly small game hunt with rabbits, squirrels, possibly grouse. i know i need to set up and work up a load but my question now is can i use standers lead from a typical 12 gauge shell given i measured my powder and shot accordingly as no one around carries shot was thinking of making some homemade shot wads and cards if this would work. and one other thing would it be worth it to possibly entertain the idea of jug choking? i have read a little about it i’m use to having a decent full choke and #5 for squirrels for some of our high up timber here in WV.

Well .730 would be the modern standard for 12 gauge (.729 - .730) So..., they are likely cylinder bore.

The good news is that you not only have a small game/forest game gun, but you also have a SxS roundball gun, probably good on deer out to 50 yards or so.

There are ways of loading a cylinder bore that can increase the effective range of their pattern, but first I'd work on a load that gives you a good 25 yard pattern.

How long are your barrels and how thick? I've seen cylinder bore shotguns that were 28" or 30" shortened by a few inches so that the barrel walls were then thicker at the muzzle. One barrel was found to shoot really straight with a round ball, so that was left alone, and the other was then fitted to use a modern choke tube.

LD

 

[PEARL DRUMS]

Both barrels are cylinder bore. I am going to tap both so I can use recessed choke tubes in mine. I get a proper turkey pattern now at 25. But, I would like another 10 yards out of it.

 

[Gum Slough Muzzleloader]

They also made a .410 model. I've also got the 12 and love it. Been using bismuth with ok results. Has anyone shot round balls out of them? I'm currently building a cva .410 for rb's.

I have not shot any round balls out of my sweet little .410 yet but I plan on trying it. I know it shoots #6 real good.
I have several CVAs one is a SxS .50 Express Rifle. My little Brittany .410 had the left mainspring replaced and it kinda week, still functional but week. I was concerned about finding one to replace it. Deer Creek told me good luck finding parts for it. But you turned me on to The Gun Works. I purchased a left mainspring and a sear spring. A little modification and it will fit.
Thanks for that info Century.

Wv as for as 599 it's a bit much and you might find one cheaper. If you really want it, try to get him to come down some.
If you really want it I'd say buy it.
Some folks will say CVA isn't good and you paid to much for it. Forget them this about you and your gun. All of my CVAs have been good to me. Some I paid less for and some I paid a bit much for.

Good luck.
GSM

 

[Gum Slough Muzzleloader]

First off let me thank each and everyone for all the reply’s and all the help and knowledge offered. I did end up picking up the CVA (i’ll upload some pics soon i’m on my way to work) I didn’t pay full asking price , stopped back bye the shop that had it and the owner wasn’t in but I looked it over a little better this time and asked the younger guy working the counter if they could do any better on price he looked at the tag with some random letters on it ( i assume some kind a code to let them know what they have invested in each piece they have ) told me he could do 450$ out the door! i actually got out the door with it and two new CVA ol reliable nipples and a tin of remington #11 caps. they didn’t have any shot or wads or shot cards tho. my biggest thing i noticed was i ask if i may use there gauge and measure the bore myself this go around, i was using what appeared to be typical triangle bore gauge (on internet there sold as tad cash brand i do believe or colt ? ) but when measure both barrels it reads 73 which is 0.730 i assume. no where near the first measurement the owner gave i an going to get a caliper and measure deeper in the barrel if anyone thinks that will benefit me but from what i gather than would make both barrels cylinder bore? i got this to mostly small game hunt with rabbits, squirrels, possibly grouse. i know i need to set up and work up a load but my question now is can i use standers lead from a typical 12 gauge shell given i measured my powder and shot accordingly as no one around carries shot was thinking of making some homemade shot wads and cards if this would work. and one other thing would it be worth it to possibly entertain the idea of jug choking? i have read a little about it i’m use to having a decent full choke and #5 for squirrels for some of our high up timber here in WV.

Congratulations.
I did see that you bought it.
You'll be happy with it

 

[Wv_mingo327]

Well .730 would be the modern standard for 12 gauge (.729 - .730) So..., they are likely cylinder bore.

The good news is that you not only have a small game/forest game gun, but you also have a SxS roundball gun, probably good on deer out to 50 yards or so.

There are ways of loading a cylinder bore that can increase the effective range of their pattern, but first I'd work on a load that gives you a good 25 yard pattern.

How long are your barrels and how thick? I've seen cylinder bore shotguns that were 28" or 30" shortened by a few inches so that the barrel walls were then thicker at the muzzle. One barrel was found to shoot really straight with a round ball, so that was left alone, and the other was then fitted to use a modern choke tube.

LD

i am almost sure they are 28” i will measure them in just a lil bit and i will mike the wall thickness i had intentions of using my digital caliper and measure bore again just to be sure that i was using the manual gauge correctly as i have been looking at wads and shot cards and such and saw a few post here and there that reference these cva as having some tighter than mine showed with the gauge and was curious about the proper wads and cards to get seems the standard for a 12 is something like 0.740 would that be the best for me if indeed they do measure a true cylinder bore? i am completely new to this side of muzzleloaders my only experience is with my rifles and working up a good load for them based on my patch thickness, lube , powder, ect..

 

[Gum Slough Muzzleloader]

I do not want to send you in the wrong direction. I bought 12ga wads and cards and they worked just fine nice and tight.
Then I ordered more and thay were to loose, I picked up some 11ga gauge and they fit just fine. I don't remember the brand names.
For me all my muzzleloading came together by keeping things simple. Don't get caught up in you must use this or that. And get all Is scientific with it. Trial And error We'll get you on Is the right track quicker And more comfortable for yourself. Load shoot it if it works leave it alone, if it doesn't work tweak the powder charge or balls/ shot or wads or patches. Load it shot and enjoy. Or you'll set yourself up for failure and feel Defeated.
That's from my experience.

Best of luck you can and will do it.

 

[snakebit]

I do not want to send you in the wrong direction. I bought 12ga wads and cards and they worked just fine nice and tight.
Then I ordered more and thay were to loose, I picked up some 11ga gauge and they fit just fine. I don't remember the brand names.
For me all my muzzleloading came together by keeping things simple. Don't get caught up in you must use this or that. And get all Is scientific with it. Trial And error We'll get you on Is the right track quicker And more comfortable for yourself. Load shoot it if it works leave it alone, if it doesn't work tweak the powder charge or balls/ shot or wads or patches. Load it shot and enjoy. Or you'll set yourself up for failure and feel Defeated.
That's from my experience.

Best of luck you can and will do it.

I bought 12 gauge components for my T/C 12 gauge barrel. They work fine. I just got lucky I suppose. I didn't think about different manufacturers having different specs. I just hurried and ordered the stuff from TOTW so I could shoot it

 

[Wv_mingo327]

just an update on the cva I got around to taking the barrel off the stock and looking over the locks and things, i may be wrong but i can’t find any evidence what so ever of and failing residue in or behind the locks in the mortise nor any around the tang area( i would have expected to see it in this area as i have with other guns iv taken apart but the wood in these areas appears to be new with no staining from powder residue)I may be off but i’m think this is an old kit gun someone put together and never got around to shooting. there was saw dust and wood shavings behind both locks as well as under the tang area if it was shot then whoever cleaned it did a wonderful job as the barrels are absolutely flawless in there bores. the bluing is worn and from past experience looks to be cold blue the way it will wear over time and the wood is typical light cva wood. I did use my caliper to measure the barrels more accurately (although if i’m doing this wrong please correct me because again this is all new territory for me ) but they measured out on the caliper at 0.7275 for both barrels and with a wall thickness of 0.635 on the right and 0.630 for the left. i’m chopping at the bit to take her out and work up a load as one of my all time favorites is to squirrel hunt.

 

[Gum Slough Muzzleloader]

just an update on the cva I got around to taking the barrel off the stock and looking over the locks and things, i may be wrong but i can’t find any evidence what so ever of and failing residue in or behind the locks in the mortise nor any around the tang area( i would have expected to see it in this area as i have with other guns iv taken apart but the wood in these areas appears to be new with no staining from powder residue)I may be off but i’m think this is an old kit gun someone put together and never got around to shooting. there was saw dust and wood shavings behind both locks as well as under the tang area if it was shot then whoever cleaned it did a wonderful job as the barrels are absolutely flawless in there bores. the bluing is worn and from past experience looks to be cold blue the way it will wear over time and the wood is typical light cva wood. I did use my caliper to measure the barrels more accurately (although if i’m doing this wrong please correct me because again this is all new territory for me ) but they measured out on the caliper at 0.7275 for both barrels and with a wall thickness of 0.635 on the right and 0.630 for the left. i’m chopping at the bit to take her out and work up a load as one of my all time favorites is to squirrel hunt.

Brother all that sounds great. Good for you. I'm happy for ya.
Take her out and find that sweet load and smoke some squirrels. When you do smoke some squirrels please post on the 2025/2025 squirrel hunting thread.
There's alot of guys that would love to hear from ya.

 

[flintlock75]

first off i hope i’m posting this in the right place if not i do apologize. i’m looking for some options and help been thinking about getting a shotgun for squirrel and small game and such , there a cva double barrel 12 at my local pawn shop. looks to be from 1985 or 86 can’t remember for sure the date code stamped infront of the serial #. my questions are what’s everyone’s opinion on them and does a .760 sound right on the choke ? the owner measured it with a gauge and told me it was a 76? he said that’s improved cylinder but from some reading online looks to be full-x full if i’m reading the chart right on shotgun bore measure. i don’t have any pics but it’s overall really clean the bluing is wearing somewhat but it’s crisp and smooth on the action and barrel are mirrors on inside price is 599$ may be able to get him to budge on it a little. should y’all consider this a decent price range for one of these or is he way out in left field with price ? didn’t appear to have been fired a lot has two new stainless nipples also. the stock is in really great shape. thank you for any help you may be able to throw my way

I have a cav. double 12ga, same vintage. The bores on mine Mike at .729 and they are cylinder bored. The gun is heavy compared to my pedersoli 12double. With mine I could never get it to pattern sell with shot, tried every combo and stil a holey pattern. But it will shoot a PRB .705 with great accuracy. 50 yards the right barrel is on target the left barrel shoots 1” left and 2” low, plenty of accuracy for big game.