Browning after rust remover

[Msplcdyankee]

I plan on re browning my TC Hawken, after I remove the old browning. Has anyone used Navy jelly to remove the old finish and then reblued or browned after? If so did it take as it should or was it spotty? Or should I just draw file to remove to bare metal?

 

[BrownBear]

Yeah. Browning doesn't take well after using naval jelly. The solution is easy. Lightly draw file the surface to remove whatever the jelly is leaving behind.

 

[JBird]

When I stripped the finish off my TC Hawken, I was left with darkened steel, draw filing is unnecessary, unless there are tooling marks under the finish. I would however polish the flats with sandpaper and a block if you want a consistent finish

 

[Loyalist Dave]

You can take a pvc pipe large enough and long enough to hold your barrel, with an extra 6" say, cap and seal one end. Then place the barrel inside and pour in Evaporust until the barrel is fully submerged. Let it sit for 48 hours, then pour the solution into a second container and remove the barrel. Should be down to the bare metal without any worries.

If it's not done yet, replace the barrel into the pvc container that you made, and return the used solution to the pvc container, and wait another day or two.

It's amazing stuff, and a good water rinse and towel dry should allow you to brown your barrel without worries.

LD

 

[Billnpatti]

Hoppe's makes a bluing remover that you can use to remove the bluing and it won't interfere with the browning process. Just be sure to use it as directed. I have always used acetone to remove any traces of grease after using the bluing remover. You need to use it before the bluing remover but I also use it after. Then wear nitrile or similar, gloves when you handle your barrel during the browning process. Fingerprints will show up on the browning if you handle it with your bare hands. My favorite browning is Laurel Mountain Forge cold browning solution.

 

[BrownBear]

I would however polish the flats with sandpaper and a block if you want a consistent finish

That's why I draw file. Lot's easier for me to draw file without rounding the corners on the barrel than with block and sandpaper.

 

[JBird]

I would however polish the flats with sandpaper and a block if you want a consistent finish

That's why I draw file. Lot's easier for me to draw file without rounding the corners on the barrel than with block and sandpaper.

any recommendations on good files for drawfiling? on my SMR I could get nearly perfect flats but even with chalking and constant carding I was getting scratches. I will be doing a swamped rice barrel soon. would like to avoid some of those issues if possible.

 

[BrownBear]

I like them long, wide and fine. Don't recall the brand of my favorite, but I paid pretty good money for it. The long and wide helps me a BUNCH in keeping the file absolutely flat while drawing.

 

[stubshaft]

I always buy a new file to drawfile barrels.

 

[Billnpatti]

:metoo: Good advice! :thumbsup: It is always easier and you get better results with a nice sharp file. Do not go cheap on your file either. Buy a good file. It will not be cheap but it will pay for itself in the long run.

 

[Scota4570]

No need to chemically remove the old browning. Unless the barrel is horribly mauled I'd degrease and add more brown over what is there. If you really must re polish don't go too fine 180 grit is plenty. I use burgundy/purple scotchbrite as my final step. If you go to fine it is more difficult to get an even finish. Really, bead blasted or sand blasted works even better. The rust takes easy and the finish comes out even and non reflective. The Browning Hawken-esque rifles of the 1980s were done this way and looked really nice...IMHO.

 

[bud in pa]

Try Brownells gunsmithing supplies. They will probably have the right one.

 

[tenngun]

I’ve had good results with navel jelly, a soap and water was afterwards, dry and the alchoal was afterwards.