Browning Stainless steel

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J-team

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Ok, I know you're going to ask "but why?", but...

Has anyone ever tried to brown a 416 stainless steel barrel? I know that they can go rusty if not cared for, but that's usually accidental spots of rust, not an overall browning. Curious to know if anyone has any experience in doing this or at least trying to do it.
 
If they can rust, they can be browned. You'll have to research what makes SS rust faster though, as it might take elevated acid and oxygen levels to get it to take action in a time frame you can live with. That is, you might have to make an oxygen tent for the barrel, which is very doable.
 
J-team

I think trying to brown 416 stainless will be difficult. It may rust in some areas and not so much in others.

One thing to remember if your going to try to brown 416. It often is passivated or you may see advice that it should be. DON'T DO IT and if you think it has been done, file or sand the surface to remove the passivated surface.

Passivating means subjecting the surface to a acid to remove the iron from the surface. While that's good if you want the steel to resist rusting, if you'r trying to brown it, that iron is the only thing you have that's working for you.

If you try browning it, let us know how things worked out.
 
I don't know if SS can be browned, but it has been "blued," or more correctly known as "Black Oxide" coated for many decades. Prior to immersion into the 285 degree Black Oxide solution tanks, it has to have the surface "striked" by immersion into mild acid. We did this by immersion into common "Brick Layer's Acid" or Muriatic Acid for about 20 seconds followed by a dip in boiling water to stop the Acid from further action. Then it went into the cleaning solution tank and finally into the Black Oxide Tank. After it was immersed long enough, it went into another solution to stop the Black Oxide from working and finally into a "Rust Veto" or anti rusting solution. Done properly this did not hurt the super accuracy of NM or Sniper Barrels at all.

So it won't hurt the inside of a ML barrel AS LONG AS the breech plug is done separately. If the breech plug is left on the barrel, the Black Oxide salts may not be properly neutralized in the threads of the breech plug or barrel, unless one is very, VERY careful. That leads to a white powdery bleed out of the salts, that will eat the finish underneath and ruin the finish.

I do not know if the careful and short applications of Muriatic Acid on just the outside surface of the barrel will or even can cause an even enough surface rust that can be carded like browning. Honestly, I would never try it even as much as I've worked with Muriatic Acid on the barrels mentioned above.

Now SS can be painted or plated or other more expensive treatments can be done, but I doubt it will look like what we call "browning."

Gus
 
I have seen stainless barrels for modern rifles "blued", but the process is multi-step and a bit complex. Clean stainless is copper plated, then the copper is iron plated, then the usual modern hot tank bluing is applied.
 
I've seen stainless steel get "blued" by acid. I was making some lemon wine once and the stainless steel mixing spoon developed a blueish color while I stirred. After about five years the color still hasn't worn off the spoon. Got a little battery acid on a stainless knife blade which immediately turned blue under the acid. Had to use some fine paper to clean the bluing off the blade.
 
Who made a traditional muzzleloader barrel out of stainless ?
Sounds like a job for Krylon.
 
I've some 7/8 inch stainless round stock that might go that route if I ever get inspired. It would have to be a .50 caliber smooth bore though.
 

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