browning troubles

[Scharfrichter]

I'm finally getting around to re-browning the barrel of my Jaeger using Laurel Mtn forge browning agent. The reason I'm re-browning is due to the fact that when I first browned it the Wahkon Bay agent I used turned out spotty. However, since I was really itchin' to shoot the thing, I decided that the finish was "good enough" for now and I'd re-do it later.
Now, I've run into a bit of a problem that I just can't seem to solve. Each time I scale back the layer of rust (using 4-ought steel wool) there are always spots in which there appears to be no browning whatsoever. Even though the bottle says that one doesn't need to degrease the barrel I do so as a course of habit using lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol. When applying I only move in one direction and so on.
So, does anyone have any thoughts on whats causing these bare spots and possibly how to eliminate them?

Thanks.

 

[Black Hand]

Sir,
Occasionally, I have seen this as well, and usually it is in spots where a little solder has stuck to the barrel. Try a fine file or sand paper to clean the area and try re-browning.
Black Hand

 

[GregC]

Or...you are rubbing the browning off each time you apply.

Be real careful not to RUB the LMF browing solution. One direction only. If you get the copper color film on the barrel, you are screwed.

 

[bob1961]

could be where ya touched the barrel with yer fingers and left oil spots if not wearing rubber gloves.............bob

 

[BS]

Make sure that you are using oil free steel wool.

 

[LRB]

Most of the steels used in barrels have lead in them to make them machine better, occasionally the lead can pool in a spot making very difficult for browning or bluing to take. I was told this by a barrel maker, I can only assume he knows what he is talking about.

 

[BS]

I have one of those spotted barrels, but have not browned it yet!

 

[crockett]

You may also want to try carding with rough, terry cloth towels. You want to remove only loose rust, nothing else.

 

[fatboy]

I would take it back down to the bright steel w/sandpaper and or emery cloth wrapped on a file so you dont round the corners off of the barrel. clean off with alcohol only dont polish yor barrel real smooth the pores of the steel are better left bore open the browning takes better . Next and this is the way I do it wipe on your browning sol let it set 8 hrs , do not card of the rust that appears apply more of the solution but I put coats on every 4 to 5 hrs maybe 3 times or 4 total and I have gottten a real nice finish on 2 rifles and a dbl barrel shotgun ,follow your instuctions stopping the rust process. PS:I also like a humid area basement works well :results: :m2c:

 

[Scharfrichter]

Thanks for the replies folks, they're greatly appreciated. Just scaled off the most recent coat of rust usin a terry cloth and it's lookin like it will turn out just fine after a couple more coats.

thanks again.

 

[Killitgrillit]

Howdy Scharfritcher
I'am in the process of browning my trigger gaurd lock and butt plate right now also with LMF
What I've found is that you need to put it on as lite as possible, I'am using cheese cloth as a cloth to wet the parts. If you wet the parts and there's excess LMF or air bubbles those will leave spots.
I soaked the cheese cloth the first time yesterday and I've not wet it since, if fact after I scale the part and wash it off I let it dry then wipe down again with LMF and it almost dries by the time I get done wiping it thats how sparingly I'am putting it on.
I'am getting a nice even brown finish with no spoting or streaking after about 6 coats.
I also am letting it hang out side in the porch will it's raining.
:m2c:
Killit

 

[scott k]

My thoughts are that some steel does not rust real well. I just did my Lyman trade gun barrel and had spots on the barrel that just did not want to brown. I put a under rib on it and that was nice by the second day. The sites looked good as well as the hook breech. I kept at it and gave up on the barrel on the 5th day. It looked pretty bad to me until I put on the linseed oil. That did even out the color a lot. Looks ok now but there are still light spots. Just not real noticeable.
By the way I saw where someone said that LMF browning is idiot proof, HA Their wrong :crackup:
Lehigh...

 

[LRB]

I am curious about something. I read over and over that if the LMF turns the steel copper, it is not going to take. Wipe it in one direction only. I have read this often enough that I have to believe you guys are right. However, I use the stuff on a very regular basis to age my knife blades and fittings, and I find just the opposite. If the steel on my blade DOES NOT go to copper, it does not take, or takes poorly. On the iron fittings, I find the same thing, only that it rusts and pits deeper than on the steel, and faster. Why do you think this works opposite for me? I do not card between coats as I am after the rust and piting effect. I use two coats a day for 4 or 5 days, and keep the knife in a humidity box, then clean it up. I wonder if you were to let the first, or the first two coats go for a couple of days if that would make a difference? I don't know, just asking. Maybe the difference is the humidity box? Just curious