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Love it! You should make those to sell.

I make various things to sell now and then. Strictly to pay for my bad habits. Never thought about the range rod that way. OTOH, it's pretty dang easy for anybody to do themselves. If I ever run into a good deal on parts it could happen. :grin:
 
twisted_1in66 said:
Hey Rifleman1776,

The key on the steel is that he made it out of stainless 303 steel, not normal carbon steel. Huge difference in the two. Like comparing a carbon steel knife to a stainless knife. Carbon steel has to be kept clean and oiled to keep it from rusting and stainless doesn't (OK, almost doesn't). I bought a range rod made out of the stainless stuff from a member of our longrifle club back in 2005 and it's as shiny and new looking now as it was 10 years ago. Can't say the same for the brass attachments of course. About the only thing I've ever done is wipe it off after cleaning my rifle.

Mine is also tapped into the stainless steel rod, but since I'm shooting .50 cal, diameter is not a big concern. I may have to change the handle though. Mine is a black round ball like an old shift knob and it does roll around a bit. :grin:

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:

Nope:
He said:
I start off with a steel rod from the hardware store or the big box. This one is nickel plated steel. You can use brass too, but the steel is less costly. It does not need to be nickel plated. Plain old steel works fine and your dirty greasy hands will prevent it from rusting.
 
Nice work. I myself prefer a "T" handle rather than a knob. You can put the T handle under your feet and use your legs to pull out a stuck cleaning patch , or dry ball. :idunno:
 
Yup, my bad.

I thought you were referring to Birddog6's post and you were referring to "marmotslayer" just like the response reference said. Guess I better pay more attention to the "in response to _____" notation.

uh...my glasses were dirty... I saw spots... my wife was asking me a question and diverted my attention... It was after 8 PM and my eyes wouldn't stay focused... I don't read as well with my eyes closed...

Sorry 'bout that :redface: :redface:

And I agree, regular steel is going to rust.

Twisted_1in66
Dan
 
I have a few that are made of plain steel and have not had a rust problem. I even have a dedicated steel field rod on a hunting rifle that is not a problem. But, when I use them the tend to get handled by my dirty greasy hands :haha:

Don't doubt that the could rust up in the right (wrong?) circumstances, but it has not been a problem.

My favorite knives are made up out of Russell Green River carbon blades and they don't rust either. Every now and then after washing the blood and hair off them, they get treated with cooking oil (foodsafe) and rusting is not a problem. Cutting up a fat deer or elk seems to give long term protection too as long as they are not washed too aggressively.
 
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLHU7&P=7

Check hobby shops for the K&S metals display. They used to make music wire up to 3/8". Now I only see up to 9/32". This stuff is spring temper and virtually impossible to bend my normal means. You will have to silver solder on, any tips for jags and such. You can not drill or tap it. It makes a forever indestructible rod.
 
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But Music Wire is regular steel, right ? except very hard. But not Stainless Steel, so it will rust ?

MSC has # 304 Stainless Steel in 6' lengths for $ 9.14 plus shipping, if you want stainless
& don't want to buy a 20' length.

Now this SS is not easy to drill & tap, I will tell ya that. It takes good spiral 2 flute taps
to do it , as a std tap will snap right off in it.
This stuff is really tough & of course will last several lifetimes. #304 is food grade stainless.

# 303 SS cost considerably more, unless you buy it in bulk & cut to length. # 303 is more
machinable that # 304 as it has more sulfur in it, if I am reading the details correctly.
But since you are just using it as a rod, the # 304 may work just as well for a range rod.
I have not tried tapping any # 304. Possibly someone on here can tell us about the tapping
capabilities of it.

Keith Lisle
 
I have never had issues with rust. Very hard steels tend to be less rust prone based on my observations.

I don't leave the rod dry and covered with fouling . An oily rag should be close at hand when cleaning a gun? It takes only a couple of seconds to whip it down.

Being extremely hard, music will will not pick up grit that could scratch the bore. One could kill two birds with one stone by covering the rod with shrink tubing like the Dewey rods.

I really like music wire for this. Just threw it out there, use what you want.
 
I have a few that I made myself using brass rod. I used brass door knobs that I have found at antique stores. The brass knobs look pretty good and are not subject to breakage. However, they are hollow so they can dent. All of mine have dents in them but none has ever come off. I haven't needed to make another range rod in several years. I have one for every caliber of rifle from .32 to .54 plus one for a 12 ga. shotgun. But, I still keep my eyes peeled for brass door knobs on those rare occasions when I go to a flea market or antique store. You never know when you might need a knob for a rangerod.
 
I agree with all of that. :thumbsup: And as you said, hardened steel tends not to rust as easily
as soft steel.
But at $ 46. for 3 of the Music wire rods, and $ 28. bucks for 3 SS 304 rods, I would have to go
with the SS rods & not worry about rust, corrosion, or anything basically.

I do use music wire in certain things tho, just never saw any large enough to use for a ramrod.
Hobby shops I have been to just have small stuff.

Keith Lisle
 
ACE HARDWARE has it up to 1/4" around here, but I've not seen it any larger. I've not seen any difference in the rate hard or soft steel rusts, but pure iron oxidizes very slowly compared to steel. I would assume the addition of carbon or sulfur has something to do with it.
 
Nope, it has been several years since I build my last brass rod. I used to buy the blank brass rods from a muzzleloading shop, Rebel Arms, in Pasadena, Texas. They went out of business several years back so if I were to want to make another brass range rod, I'd have to find another source. From what you said, maybe I ought to treasure the brass range rods that I have. :hmm:
 
Billnpatti said:
Nope, it has been several years since I build my last brass rod. I used to buy the blank brass rods from a muzzleloading shop, Rebel Arms, in Pasadena, Texas. They went out of business several years back so if I were to want to make another brass range rod, I'd have to find another source. From what you said, maybe I ought to treasure the brass range rods that I have. :hmm:


I checked with one source :shocked2: hold yer freekin' hat....$24.78 per FOOT. :doh:
 
"But at $ 46. for 3 of the Music wire rods, ..."

The price is $16 for three 3' pieces, so $5.33 per rod.

If you want a brass coated spring steel rod the hobby shops have hard drawn brass tubing that will slip over the music wire.
 
i a fairly new to muzzleloading, do you use range rods to avoid breaking the ramrod? or are they just more versatile?
 
eggwelder said:
i a fairly new to muzzleloading, do you use range rods to avoid breaking the ramrod? or are they just more versatile?

Both. Range rods often had a handle making them much easier to use, especially for all day shooting. And, often range rods are dedicated by both length and jag size for a particular rifle.
Besides, most of us are boys and we always need more toys. I carry about 30 rods to a big shooting event. Usually only use one. :redface: :wink:
 
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