Building another GPR

[mattacton]

Hi!

My first post, so let me introduce myself. I'm a graduate student finishing his thesis in Restoration Ecology at Arizona State University - East. I love to hunt, and I've been shooting black powder for a couple of years now.

My question is, when finishing a stock, how do you obtain a satin finish with the Permalyn products (Track of the Wolf)? Do the urethane products from Minwax work well in finishing a stock, and which would you recommend?

This is the second GPR I've built. The first, a 50 cal, came out fine, but the stock is a little shiny for my liking after using the Permalyn finishes. This one, a 54 cal that I'm building more for hunting, needs to be more of a dull, satin finish that still has a sheen.

BTW- I'm using Laurel Mountain Forge's Barrel Brown to treat the barrel and furniture, with a little help from a swamp cooler I have in my shop to add humidity.

Any and all input is welcome, and gladly received.

Thanks!

 

[keving]

I built a .54 caliber GPR flintlock and refinished my .50 caliber GPR percussion. I used Tru-Oil which puts a high sheen finish on the wood, I let them dry for a couple days and then used 0000 steel wool to remove the sheen and they came out with a nice satin finish.

 

[keving]

I just noticed your nickname. I used to live in Arizona, Phoenix and Apache Junction. I hiked up to the top of Shiprock several times. I miss the spring beauty of the desert. Does your nickname have to do with the Superstition Mountains?

 

[mattacton]

Yep. I'm in Apache Junction, and about 15 minutes from First Water trailhead. I typically like to hunt on the south side, approaching Roger's Trough trail head/Superior area.

 

[Zonie]

Personally, I don't like the modern urethane finishes.
Aside from not being "Period Correct" they seem to me to have a plastic feel to them.

Boiled Linseed oil will soak into the wood and bring out the stain color without adding much, if any gloss. It does take a lot of time to harden though.

Tung Oil also works well, but if it is pure, it also takes a while to dry.

I would suggest staying with Tru-Oil (which is just linseed oil with dryers added) and, as the others have mentioned, steel wool it for a "flat" finish.
If you like something a little more satin like, the Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen can be used.
If you use Stock Sheen lightly, it will polish the surface to a satin look. If you rub harder, it will give a "rubbed, high shine" look so don't over do it.