Building First Flintlock

[MaineMuzzle]

Hello everyone,

I’m brand new to the forum. Long story short, I’m really interested in building a flintlock muzzleloader to use for hunting. I don’t have any experience with wood working or metal working.

I have read that that Kibler Colonial Rifle Kit is forgiving to the novice and is a quality build. I would love to build one and have watched the videos of Jim assembling a kit. However, I’m concerned it still may be too difficult for my first build. I want to take the plunge, but don’t want to bite off more than I can chew.

Can anyone speak to this? Better yet, has someone in my position tackled a Kibler project and can share their experience?

I’m open to other recommendations for a first build as well! I’ve read over and over again to stay away from the big manufactures (pedersoli, traditions, lyman, etc).

 

[Art Caputo]

I don’t think there is an easier kit then the Kibler. If you order the Kibler finished, in the “white”, it comes fully assembled, eliminating the fitment, requiring final finishing only. It does add to the price though, which is about the same as a finished TVM rifle.

 

[JBird]

For what it's worth it's not much more work than building a production kit like a TC Hawken or a Lyman and not much more money, although the finished result and quality of parts is significantly better.

If your concerned dont attempt carving, light sanding and scraping is all the stock needs. And the brass castings are fantastic especially if you've ever worked with sand cast metals. Worst case scenario you get carried away while filing flats, luckily Jim sells castings individually.

Draw filing barrel flats also looks intimidating but its very easy with a good file and actually quite enjoyable (practice on the bottom 3 flats if you feel its necessary) It really does go together easy, even if you make some mistakes the finished product will be worth it.

 

[MaineMuzzle]

Thanks for the detailed response. A couple of things:

1. In the videos of Jim putting the rifle together from 3-4 years ago, he was cleaning up the inlets and doing a bit of filing. This was back when he was using Chambers’ locks. Has his process evolved to give customers less inlet and filing work? I don’t know what to be more concerned with, the metal not sitting correctly due to “touch points” or carving too much and creating gaps.

2. Excuse my ignorance, but what does it mean to file flats and draw filing barrel flats?

It’s encouraging to hear that it’s not much more difficult than building a production kit. Something in me disdains owning shoddy equipment.

 

[JBird]

I bought mine when they were first released so it has the Chambers lock. the only work you should have to do in the inlets is tight corners where a round mill bit cant remove the wood.

The flats I was referring to were the multiple flat surfaces on the trigger guard and ram rod thimbles, while cleaning up the castings they will need a little work with a small file to get the "flats" more consistent with crisp edges

"Draw filing" is "a filing technique used mainly to remove any machining / tooling marks left on the barrel from manufacturing

 

[Zutt-man]

The Kibler is the only way to go. I had never ‘built’ a gun before, but put the Colonial together in 12 hours of work. Here’s a thread I created on it to help with the timeline of the process. Watch his videos at night before you head off to bed, and then again when you’re putting it together. You’ll be just fine
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/kibler-colonial-assembly-timeline.136570/

 

[MaineMuzzle]

I bought mine when they were first released so it has the Chambers lock. the only work you should have to do in the inlets is tight corners where a round mill bit cant remove the wood.

The flats I was referring to were the multiple flat surfaces on the trigger guard and ram rod thimbles, while cleaning up the castings they will need a little work with a small file to get the "flats" more consistent with crisp edges

"Draw filing" is "a filing technique used mainly to remove any machining / tooling marks left on the barrel from manufacturing

Great info. Thanks! You’re giving me confidence to follow through on this desire.

 

[MaineMuzzle]

The Kibler is the only way to go. I had never ‘built’ a gun before, but put the Colonial together in 12 hours of work. Here’s a thread I created on it to help with the timeline of the process. Watch his videos at night before you head off to bed, and then again when you’re putting it together. You’ll be just fine
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/kibler-colonial-assembly-timeline.136570/

Wow, that’s no time at all. I’ll check this out now. Very encouraging stuff. Thanks for responding!

 

[MaineMuzzle]

The Kibler is the only way to go. I had never ‘built’ a gun before, but put the Colonial together in 12 hours of work. Here’s a thread I created on it to help with the timeline of the process. Watch his videos at night before you head off to bed, and then again when you’re putting it together. You’ll be just fine
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/kibler-colonial-assembly-timeline.136570/

I can’t tell you how helpful the documentation of your build journey is. This is awesome. What a beautiful rifle.
What book did you read beforehand? Im going to do as you did and watch these videos and read.

 

[Zutt-man]

I can’t tell you how helpful the documentation of your build journey is. This is awesome. What a beautiful rifle.
What book did you read beforehand? Im going to do as you did and watch these videos and read.

https://www.amazon.com/Art-Building-Pennsylvania-Longrifle/dp/B002DVKDH4

Have fun! It’s a truly enjoyable and fulfilling experience! Less than a month after I completed mine, I had it sighted in using less than 20 .57 PRBs and knocked a doe down at 72 yards

 

[MaineMuzzle]

https://www.amazon.com/Art-Building-Pennsylvania-Longrifle/dp/B002DVKDH4View attachment 99279
Have fun! It’s a truly enjoyable and fulfilling experience! Less than a month after I completed mine, I had it sighted in using less than 20 .57 PRBs and knocked a doe down at 72 yardsView attachment 99279View attachment 99284

Just ordered the book. What an awesome picture. Why did you decide on the .58 caliber? Is there any advantage? I was leaning toward .54 for no particular reason.

 

[Zutt-man]

Just ordered the book. What an awesome picture. Why did you decide on the .58 caliber? Is there any advantage? I was leaning toward .54 for no particular reason.

A little lighter, more balance on the front end, and all of my guns are meant for hunting vs plinking. My rendezvous days are over, so I don’t mind spending a little more on lead when I know I won’t be going through a lot of it. I also will be hunting elk, mule deer and whitetail with it, so a little extra umpphhh behind the punch never hurts

There was also a thread recently discussed on the differences between the .54 & .58 Kibler provides.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/buying-a-kibler-colonial-54-or-58.136928/

 

[MaineMuzzle]

A little lighter, more balance on the front end, and all of my guns are meant for hunting vs plinking. My rendezvous days are over, so I don’t mind spending a little more on lead when I know I won’t be going through a lot of it. I also will be hunting elk, mule deer and whitetail with it, so a little extra umpphhh behind the punch never hurts

There was also a thread recently discussed on the differences between the .54 & .58 Kibler provides.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/buying-a-kibler-colonial-54-or-58.136928/

I didn’t know there were so many detailed threads. This is great.

It seems .58 caliber is the way to go for most people!

 

[Tn poor boy]

I don’t think there is an easier kit then the Kibler. If you order the Kibler finished, in the “white”, it comes fully assembled, eliminating the fitment, requiring final finishing only. It does add to the price though, which is about the same as a finished TVM rifle.

Kibler southern rifle comes in box you put part together and finish wood iv done 1 iv got 2 more on there way. Iv also got Tvm It took almost a year to get it

 

[oldwood]

Get the Dixon's book. It's the best instruction for working on m/l guns...........oldwood