Building L/H flinter, tips???

[Eterry]

Ok, I'm gonna build me a 36 cal l/h flint, something squirrel rifle looking, long barrel, nice wood, not too fancy. I have a friend who has a shop and has built about 50-75 rifles, he is gonna help me.

His barrels start at 40 cal, and I'm thinking I want a 36, any advice on barrel, price, etc will help. Also, whats the best l/h flint lock for the money? I know thats probably a loaded question, but I'm gonna ask anyway.

Thanks,
Eterry

 

Check with www.stonewallcreekoutfitters.com They have everything you need including .25, .32, and .36 cal Ed Rayle barrels. The L&R locks will be your best bet, Durs Egg or other english style if you pick a Southern or Tennessee. Troy Roope the owner is great to do business with. They can get you a left hand precarve as well. Check the web site, then give them a call. Building one now in fifty cal. for a friends birthday. Troy uses Pecatonica for most of his stocks.

Bill

 

[Eterry]

Thanks Bill, I stumbled upon Stonecreek last night after searching this thread of the forum. And that brings up a question I have. I noticed on stonecreek they speak of Pennsylvania, Kentucky, Tennessee, and Southern Mountain Rifles. Can someone give me a brief description of each of maybe the differences between them?
Thanks,
Eterry

 

[BrownBear]

I wouldn't go any larger than 3/4" with 36 caliber. The 42" x 3/4" Rayl on my 30 cal is plenty heavy. I think anything bigger than 3/4" in 36 cal would turn into a club rather than a handy squirrel rifle.

My experience with flinters sezz be real specific on LOP, too. I'm 6'4" with gangly long arms and 14" is too short. I hit paydirt right at 14.5", which says small changes make a big difference.

Long as you're building, look into putting about 1/4" of cast off into the stock. I've got them with and without cast off, and really notice the difference.

 

[Capt. Fred]

There's a whole lot of difference between the different styles you mention. Big differences in the way they come to your shoulder and in the way they look. For a real rough idea of the differences go to Track of the Wolf's site and look at the pictures of their gun kits.

Also, if you use the advanced search function and search this forum you should find some good examples. Search things like "lancaster" "beck" "virginia" "southern mountain" "haines" etc.

Squirrel rifle can cover a lot of styles, so if you can find a shape that is pleasing to your eye it would then be ideal if you could actually handle one to see if that type of architecture works for your body.

Sitting Fox is a kit supplier that has a picture on their site of a "squirrel rifle" that is real pretty to my eye. I've never bought anything from them so I'm can't comment on their quality or if they make it in a left hand version.

If your friend would help you build it from a blank (big undertaking!) then that would really open up your options since you need a lefty.

 

[gonzomann]

Tip Curtis has some left hand locks and stocks I haven't seen available at other vendors. I would give him a try. I am currently building an early Lancaster squirrel rifle from parts I got from Tip. I would suggest an "A" weight swamped barrel, in .36 or .40 caliber.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

I like the LH John Bailes flintlock by L&R.

 

[David W.]

I was going to suggest Tip Curtis, but someone beat me to it. It was also mentioned that a 3/4" barrel will be plenty heavy. My Bedford County 3/4", 36" long H&H barreled rifle weighs a hefty 6.4 lbs!!! Man. it's tough carrying so much weight around.

Seriously though, a .36 is a great caliber in my opinion. Plenty enough (and almost too much) for tree rats, rabbit, and other small crittters.

I use 000 buckshot which makes it a lot cheaper to shoot and no need to buy a mould.

Get a swamped barrel if you must, but if I understood, cost is a factor. Swamped barrels = $$$. Straight barrels are muzzle heavy, which I personally believe is better when shooting stuff like squirrels. Swamped barrels do look nice though.

As far as left handed tips go, start with a right haned rifle and build it backwards! :rotf: :idunno:

 

[rabjr]

Decisions, decisions! Right now is is a fun time drawing out how you want your rifle. You need to decide what style best suits you then pick your barrel based on that. I see swamped and straight being talked about but don't discount those tapered barrels. A tapered barrel might be a good fit for what you want.

L&R locks get a bad rap and rightly so but if you know someone who is a good lock smith, they can be fixed up and tuned to be just as good as any Chambers lock. That will give you some other choices besides a lh Siler.

 

Eterry, I'll let you in on a big secret. Pick up the phone and give guy's like Troy, or Tip a call. They will give good advice and are very helpful. Tip can only be reached by phone or email, he's low tech. :haha: Troy is an exceptional builder, and teacher in his own right. most of the suppliers in the Muzzleloading business give freely with help, and advice. PS Troy is a southpaw and can really help in your quest.

Bill

 

[Eterry]

Thanks all for the input, how do I get in contact with Tip? I went to see my buddy yesterday, he loaned me under a blood oath the book "THOUGHTS ON THE KENTUCKY RIFLE IN ITS GOLDEN AGE", which I havent had a chance to look at yet. We discussed locks, barrels, stocks. He advised an L&R lock and an Orion Barrel, but it seems Orion is out of production. I will probably look at a Rayl Barrel, but it seems I need to decide on a "school" first as to what size of lock and type of stock.

I looked at a rifle his grandson recently finished which was embellished more than I thought I wanted, but the more I looked at it the more it appealed to me. Maybe some masonic emblems on the stock/forearm done tastefully would look nice to a traveling man.

Eterry

 

[mazo kid]

.....Maybe some masonic emblems on the stock/forearm done tastefully would look nice to a traveling man. Eterry

Several of my accouterments....bags, horns, knives, utensils, and yes guns, have Masonic symbols. I would suggest that if you do the "Square and Compass" that you do not include the "G" as that was brought into the picture in the 1850s IIRC. Here are a couple of pictures of the rifle I just had built for me:

Good luck with your rifle! Let us see the results of your thinking.

 

[Eterry]

Thanks Brother, I'm at work and the internet spies have all pictures blocked so I cant see your work, but will check them out when I get home.

I am really taken with the John Bivins 1770 Lancaster on TOTW and may try to replicate something like it, in left hand. I hear the wooden patchbox is harder to do, but it really catches my eye. I spend a little time looking over Kindig's Book, but havent spent as much time as needed with it, due to obligations.

Eterry

 

[Eterry]

I finally got my pc up and running and was able to look at the pics of your rifle...THATS one nice rifle! Are my eyes lying to me or is that a left hand flint? The masonic emblems are a nice touch, not too ostentatious, just a nice embellishment. I'm a little torn between a plain, unadorned rifle and one with more brass and inlays. Guess I need to make up my mind....Again, thats a Sharp looking rifle, would like to see all of it if you can post more.

Eterry