Bullet molds

[S.Kenton]

I just started casting recently, only have one mold, a .490 Lee 6 cavity. It seems like a great mold so far. I've cranked out several hundred really good balls in two short casting sessions. Never going back to store bought balls!

I did notice that sometimes the excess lead on the sprue cutter plate will stick pretty bad... Is this a sign of not being at proper temp or is there something else I need to do to correct this?

I have a 6 cavity 530 mold that can be a bear to cut the sprue.If I’m understanding your question correctly? I think it’s just the nature of the beast, I have to lightly tap the sprue cutter with a wooden handle.

 

[EC121]

Shipping isn't bad. Moulds are about $35 or so. It has been a while, but I think Priority shipping is used. Took about 2wks. to get them. Paypal does the currency conversion automatically. You have to furnish your own handles. TOW sell them for $14..

 

[Pioneer flinter]

I would like forum member experience as to the performance and quality of both the Lee aluminum mold versus the Lyman steel-leaded mold as to the Lee lower mold cost and Lyman higher mold cost. Additionally, I noticed that Track of the Wolf sells primitive all steel bullet molds. I'm curious as to forum member's experience using an all steel primitive mold for bullet casting as was done in centuries past.

Hey Jdn I have used all 4. I like the lee mold for it's light weight, it casts a perfectly fine ball and most of them are two cavity molds depending on the diam of the ball, so production is higher. The lyman is heavier and seem to have more single cavity's, with a longer sprue. I have used both for years and never had to replace either, if you take care of them. As far as the bag molds go. I have used both the TOTW and the Callahan the Callahan has shorter handles so it is a little more compact. there is a definite weld joint where the mold head is attached to the handles not real pretty, but works. The TOTW mold has longer handles. The mold head and handels seem to be made together and looks alot better, in my opinion. When casting I can remove the ball from the TOTW mold easier then the Callahan mold. And I can puddle the lead on top of the TOTW mold easier. The balls are very good from both molds. What I use for cutting off the sprue when I am at home is, I clamp one arm of an old pair of pruning shears in my bench vice and use the upper arm with my right arm and my left arm to hold the ball and snipp it off. Real easy. I hope this helps. Pioneer Flinter

 

[gvandersluis]

I was searching for an uncommon size and gound this website:
www.ballmoulds.com
They sure look like great quality and reasonably priced, although shipping might kill the deal. I havn’t gotten that far.

I bought my first mould from ballmould recently and have cast my first few ball. No doubting the quality of the mould and 1/1000 increments in ball size is great but having a round mould and no sprue plate is a bit strange after all my Lee, Lyman and Brooks moulds. Still it’s easy to snip the sprue of close to the ball.

 

[Lippy984]

For what it’s worth...I have 3 Lee moulds and they work great. On my newest one I had an issue where the sprue plate screw was backing out. I drilled and installed a set screw to hold it in place, but haven’t been able to try it out since. Relatively easy fix.

 

[MSW]

i've used both over the last 45 years or more. mostly lyman for CF stuff and Lee for roundball ... i've had excelllent result with both, but you absolutely must R.T.F.I. (that's Read The F*(%ing Instructions) ... for those of us who might have concerns about the potential loss of machismo (as in, ten points off your Man Card if you're caught reading the instruction book) i would advise taking a long neck out to your pick up and reading the pamphlet in privacy ... wrap a girlie magazine around the front so nobody will know ...

don't beat on them to get the ball out. a light tap should be all it takes. some people have their favourite magic stick, but i use a bit of firewood that i stole from the pile. when it gets too chewed up, i use it in the woodstove and get another piece... you're not whacking it with all your might - it should last a good long time.

cast outside, and you want to by upwind of the pot so the fumes and funk blow away from you ... (i flux with beeswax - works great but smoky)

wear leather gloves, long sleeve shirt, closed toed shoes and long pants: you do NOT want lead splashing on bare skin

I use the prescription glasses that my job provides, but if you don't have to wear corrective lenses, get some goggles

also (and don't ask me how i know), wear a hat or a bandana so that, if you sweat, none of the moisture can drop into the molten lead. if it does, the droplet will instantaneously flash to steam and splatter molten lead all about. this is very dramatic and very unpleasant.

of course, don't eat or drink anything while you're running ball (if you do it right, your hands will be too busy anyway), and wash your hands after you're done.

the alarmist hysteria about lead poisoning is pretty much that: alarmist hysteria. unless you're giving you three year old a roundball to chew on, you're OK. after all, they're for shooting, not eating.

enjoy your making of roundball, and then Make Good Smoke

 

[BadDaditood]

i've used both over the last 45 years or more. mostly lyman for CF stuff and Lee for roundball ... i've had excelllent result with both, but you absolutely must R.T.F.I. (that's Read The F*(%ing Instructions) ... for those of us who might have concerns about the potential loss of machismo (as in, ten points off your Man Card if you're caught reading the instruction book) i would advise taking a long neck out to your pick up and reading the pamphlet in privacy ... wrap a girlie magazine around the front so nobody will know ...

don't beat on them to get the ball out. a light tap should be all it takes. some people have their favourite magic stick, but i use a bit of firewood that i stole from the pile. when it gets too chewed up, i use it in the woodstove and get another piece... you're not whacking it with all your might - it should last a good long time.

cast outside, and you want to by upwind of the pot so the fumes and funk blow away from you ... (i flux with beeswax - works great but smoky)

wear leather gloves, long sleeve shirt, closed toed shoes and long pants: you do NOT want lead splashing on bare skin

I use the prescription glasses that my job provides, but if you don't have to wear corrective lenses, get some goggles

also (and don't ask me how i know), wear a hat or a bandana so that, if you sweat, none of the moisture can drop into the molten lead. if it does, the droplet will instantaneously flash to steam and splatter molten lead all about. this is very dramatic and very unpleasant.

of course, don't eat or drink anything while you're running ball (if you do it right, your hands will be too busy anyway), and wash your hands after you're done.

the alarmist hysteria about lead poisoning is pretty much that: alarmist hysteria. unless you're giving you three year old a roundball to chew on, you're OK. after all, they're for shooting, not eating.

enjoy your making of roundball, and then Make Good Smoke

Excellent advice.
My favorite “magic” whackin’ stick is an old hammer handle. Mine has lasted 30 years. I shoot twice a week plus monthly matches so it gets used a Lot.

 

[mooman76]

I might add that the newer Lee moulds are much better than the old ones. They have been out a few years now though.

 

[Howard Pippin]

I would like forum member experience as to the performance and quality of both the Lee aluminum mold versus the Lyman steel-leaded mold as to the Lee lower mold cost and Lyman higher mold cost. Additionally, I noticed that Track of the Wolf sells primitive all steel bullet molds. I'm curious as to forum member's experience using an all steel primitive mold for bullet casting as was done in centuries past.

I use a Lee round ball mold, But I have a primitive mold that was sold by Dixie gun works several years ago made like a big pair of tin snips. Anyway, I cut the Big tin snip handles off, ground down the shanks and put on wooden ones to hold it by. It makes good bullets, one at a time and I took an old pair of dikes, ground them flat on one side, and use it to nip off the sprue. Kind of time-consuming but it worked. I've never tried casting over an open fire like primitive people had to do, and I weighed all my balls when I got done and out of 21, 18 were within a quarter of 1 ounce with each other. Three must have had air pockets in them. Haven't had a chance to shoot them, they measured up pretty good and I'm just waiting for spring. I heated the mold on my electric hotplate while the lead was melting and I poured them by dipper.
Squint

 

[JCKelly]

Rust?
My iron Lyman moulds from the 1950's are just fine yet.
I'm not so particular how I store things, either.

 

[OhioHawkeye]

I don’t like the cheap Lee molds. I have issues with consistency with them due to the aluminum cooling faster.

Invest in the Lyman.
Alternately, get traditional and custom sizes at ballmoulds.com

For traditional bag molds made on the USA look at
Bagmolds.com
They do custom sizes too

 

[Tanglefoot]

I've got both Lee and Lyman, plus a "primitive" iron mold that lives in my hunting pouch. All of them work well if you understand their needs. Oh -- Almost forgot. I've also got a DGW iron "nutcracker"
mold that casts the right sized ball for my Trade Gun. That style doesn't have a sprue cutter and it's necessary to trim the sprues by hand with a chisel or a pair of side cutters. It's mostly a matter of preference and budget limitations.

 

[Cpt Flint]

I quit beating on my bullet molds with a stick when I learned to use a heavily gloved hand to open the sprue cutter. The quality of Lyman molds made today is scandalous compared to the old Lyman molds. The Dixie molds with the big handles were ethnic hair straighteners that were made into bullet molds.
I would use a Lee mold to cast round balls.

 

[Canute Rex]

I have used Lee and Lyman and the old Dixie style with no sprue cutter.

People say Lee has no sprue, but really it has a slight "negative sprue," that is, a flat spot where the cutter did its work. Still an irregularity that has to be aligned while loading.

I bought a six cavity .520 Lee mold and found that the weight of the balls out of it varied widely. I ended up just casting out of the first two cavities. The single cavity molds are consistent if you are.

I preheat my molds with a propane torch. Gently. Gets the process going faster. Basically eliminates the "Lee heats up faster" argument.

The Dixie style gives you an extra step, in theory. Really, cutting the sprues all at once after a casting session combined with a slightly faster casting session doesn't add time overall.

I gave up on whacking the sprue cutter. I have a short piece of steel pipe that fits over the sprue cutter handle as a lever. Sticking the pipe over the handle and levering it open is just as fast as hitting it and doesn't loosen things up.

 

[Maven]

I have several Tanner ball moulds and can vouch for their [high] quality. Their prices and shipping are pegged to the dollar/pound relationship, as is shipping. I've found both price and shipping to be reasonable with fast delivery.

 

[gustrolland]

I just started casting recently, only have one mold, a .490 Lee 6 cavity. It seems like a great mold so far. I've cranked out several hundred really good balls in two short casting sessions. Never going back to store bought balls!

I did notice that sometimes the excess lead on the sprue cutter plate will stick pretty bad... Is this a sign of not being at proper temp or is there something else I need to do to correct this?

Smoke The mould or use some granite spray after the mould is warmed up

 

[Jay Templin]

Like many of the other commenters, I’ve cast I don’t know how many tens of thousands of rounds in everything from an original 1750s 6 cavity gang mould to my TotW primitive (both in .69) to 1970s brass presentation moulds to single cavity Lymans, to Lees in round ball, R*E*A*L bullet, modern .45 Colt and my brand new Lee/Eras Gone Kerr mould. I keep coming back to Lees because they work great with little hassle, and they are one of the most affordable moulds out there.
I have a primitive in my pack for casting over the campfire at Rendezvous and other period events, but when I cast at home, Lee is my go-to. Just remember to spot any mould first.
Jay

 

[Hawk78]

I just started casting recently, only have one mold, a .490 Lee 6 cavity. It seems like a great mold so far. I've cranked out several hundred really good balls in two short casting sessions. Never going back to store bought balls!

I did notice that sometimes the excess lead on the sprue cutter plate will stick pretty bad... Is this a sign of not being at proper temp or is there something else I need to do to correct this?

I highly suggest you to lube your mold like the guy on Youtube "Elvis" suggest to. I follow his instructions to a T and have zero issues because he is the Man!

 

[Justin.44]

I highly suggest you to lube your mold like the guy on Youtube "Elvis" suggest to. I follow his instructions to a T and have zero issues because he is the Man!

Yeah, I've just recently found him on there. Yes he's good, will do. Thanks!

 

[Bad Karma]

I quit beating on my bullet molds with a stick when I learned to use a heavily gloved hand to open the sprue cutter. The quality of Lyman molds made today is scandalous compared to the old Lyman molds. The Dixie molds with the big handles were ethnic hair straighteners that were made into bullet molds.
I would use a Lee mold to cast round balls.

Any heavy glove will do. I use a pair of old welders gloves.