Bullet Mould Idea

[dylan84]

I used fiber wads briefly and went to cork gasket material over the powder and then beeswax/fat grease under the ball. Works really well. One dry patch and barrel is shiny. Doesn't matter how long you shoot. That might change next summer! I will try the paper towel. I'm always worried about fires as it is bone dry in these parts.

 

[Ian Straus]

Sounds like an interesting experiment. But when you do it, please check for excessive leading and tell su what you find. I always thought that one of the functions of grease over the revolver ball, was to reduce leading when it hit the forcing cone.

 

[dylan84]

Sounds like an interesting experiment. But when you do it, please check for excessive leading and tell su what you find. I always thought that one of the functions of grease over the revolver ball, was to reduce leading when it hit the forcing cone.

I saw a test awhile back and have seen this documented elsewhere. Grease over the ball doesn't do a whole lot as most gets blasted off after the first chamber goes off.

 

[dehart.stephen]

Thanks for the idea and the effort. A slip-fit shank aft for loading alignment with a standard oversize front end is what I was thinking to design someday, maybe with a slight loading chamfer at the heel. May want to make a flat-faced loading.lever plunger on the.gun, just to reduce tipping if the plunger's cupped end is a bit off from the chambers' axes. If early results are lackluster, check the gun's chamber alignment with the barrel. I think our repros are not timed/ toleranced so carefully as high pressure cartridge revolvers, and the plain old round ball may be tolerant of that versus a flat- base bullet. Limited on balistics, but less reactive.to gun tolerance issues(?). Good luck.

the

 

[dylan84]

Thanks for the idea and the effort. A slip-fit shank aft for loading alignment with a standard oversize front end is what I was thinking to design someday, maybe with a slight loading chamfer at the heel. May want to make a flat-faced loading.lever plunger on the.gun, just to reduce tipping if the plunger's cupped end is a bit off from the chambers' axes. If early results are lackluster, check the gun's chamber alignment with the barrel. I think our repros are not timed/ toleranced so carefully as high pressure cartridge revolvers, and the plain old round ball may be tolerant of that versus a flat- base bullet. Limited on balistics, but less reactive.to gun tolerance issues(?). Good luck.

the

Thanks and yes you are dead on! Trying to figure out what works and what is possible to machine with my equipment!

 

[dehart.stephen]

Thanks and yes you are dead on! Trying to figure out what works and what is possible to machine with my equipment!

Understood.

 

[dehart.stephen]

wonder if

 

[dehart.stephen]

Wonder if you could drill a hole fairly centered and straight in the end of the plunger, then put an allen head countersunk screw in rhe end, filed to square bullet- seating face. Leave enough of the allen socket to remove your trial piece after the experiment. May be a low-impact reversible modification if you don'r have a lathe handy. On the bullet mould, how about a V- profile lube groove so it comes out of the moild easier, or hal-moon profile? You probably thought of those already....

 

[M. De Land]

Here is my "Grease Ball" bullet idea. By the picture it is basically a ball with a flat base that holds grease. Base will optimally be cast to cylinder dimensional bore size with a slightly oversized ball section. I have it drawn up at a .450" base diameter and a .454" ball diameter. This is my rough second drawing.

Planning on using an existing Lee mould to mod for this bullet. I think this would be a nice alternative for cap and ball 44's as the lube will be retained on the bullet itself. Dump powder and seat bullet. Should add enough mass to make it around 180 grains vs the 140 grain round ball. Also it won't take up much more powder capacity in the chamber for revolvers such as the 1858 and 1860.

Lastly I don't think the revolver will have to be modified at all for this bullet. Top portion is a ball and short enough to fit in. I will try to get some cut before the new year to test out.

Thought I would post on here to get some knowledgably feedback! Thanks for looking.

The problem with bullets and flat bases is getting them seated squarely with the barrel loading ram for accuracy which a ball does not suffer from . Bullets and even balls are most accurately seated squarely with a cylinder press out side the revolver because it does not have to deal with chamber misalignment within the revolvers frame.

 

[Bad Karma]

I’m using this one an awful lot for plinking and it’s just about perfect for the Colt 44’s. Mine was cut to drop a .457“ bullet as my Colts and Rugers generally have chambers between .454 and .456”

 

[dylan84]

I’m using this one an awful lot for plinking and it’s just about perfect for the Colt 44’s. Mine was cut to drop a .457“ bullet as my Colts and Rugers generally have chambers between .454 and .456”View attachment 180584

Idaho Lewis has lead me to Accurate Molds. There are some pretty sweet designs on there. How long does it take to get one from them?

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Here is my "Grease Ball" bullet idea. By the picture it is basically a ball with a flat base that holds grease. Base will optimally be cast to cylinder dimensional bore size with a slightly oversized ball section. I have it drawn up at a .450" base diameter and a .454" ball diameter. This is my rough second drawing.

Planning on using an existing Lee mould to mod for this bullet. I think this would be a nice alternative for cap and ball 44's as the lube will be retained on the bullet itself. Dump powder and seat bullet. Should add enough mass to make it around 180 grains vs the 140 grain round ball. Also it won't take up much more powder capacity in the chamber for revolvers such as the 1858 and 1860.

Lastly I don't think the revolver will have to be modified at all for this bullet. Top portion is a ball and short enough to fit in. I will try to get some cut before the new year to test out.

Thought I would post on here to get some knowledgably feedback! Thanks for looking.

SO I want one of the molds not only for my a .44 ACW revolvers, but ALSO I want to try that in something modern...., might go with bullet alloy though instead of all lead for the modern stuff.

IF you have the dimensions drawn up, did you know LEE will make a mold for you? Custom Mold Sheet

LD

 

[maillemaker]

Moose Moulds sells a similar "collar button" bullet. I believe it was originally intended for 45-70? Anyway it's my go-to bullet for N-SSA revolver competition.

It's not listed on their web site but this is what it looks like:

I don't see any benefit to cutting the base into a "clover leaf" design. As is, the bullet base is "heeled", in that it fits down into the chamber. there may be some compressive effect when the bullet enters the barrel, with the back end acting like a piston, causing the bullet to collapse on itself and take up the rifling on both the front and rear bands.

I do not lube this bullet as in N-SSA competition we have to use over-ball lube anyway.

Steve

 

[Red Owl]

What is the purpose of all this? That is, what are you trying to achieve over using round balls? And, the old balls had a sprue on top. I guess the pure round was more accurate but does anyone know of any mold that turns out the old style?

 

[dylan84]

What is the purpose of all this? That is, what are you trying to achieve over using round balls? And, the old balls had a sprue on top. I guess the pure round was more accurate but does anyone know of any mold that turns out the old style?

That is a good question. What is the purpose of shooting these obsolete old pistols? All kidding aside basically a bullet that has more mass that loads easily without modifying the Italian revolvers. I don't load on a stand, I like to hunt, and when I shoot I like to use grease to continue shooting. There seem to be some other bullets out there as other folks have pointed out. Might give them a try and still might try my designs when I get time.

 

[dylan84]

Moose Moulds sells a similar "collar button" bullet. I believe it was originally intended for 45-70? Anyway it's my go-to bullet for N-SSA revolver competition.

It's not listed on their web site but this is what it looks like:
View attachment 180588

I don't see any benefit to cutting the base into a "clover leaf" design. As is, the bullet base is "heeled", in that it fits down into the chamber. there may be some compressive effect when the bullet enters the barrel, with the back end acting like a piston, causing the bullet to collapse on itself and take up the rifling on both the front and rear bands.

I do not lube this bullet as in N-SSA competition we have to use over-ball lube anyway.

Steve

I do like that design! Thanks for sharing

 

[Bad Karma]

SO I want one of the molds not only for my a .44 ACW revolvers, but ALSO I want to try that in something modern...., might go with bullet alloy though instead of all lead for the modern stuff.

IF you have the dimensions drawn up, did you know LEE will make a mold for you? Custom Mold Sheet

LD

AccurateMolds.com will do the same thing... He can do multiple designs in a single mold and it's quite a bit less expensive as well. You can choose from Aluminum, brass or steel mold materials and he's typically running a month or so lead time. He can't do spitzer, hollow point, round or pointed nose bullets but a smaller meplat is possible. Good guy to work with and very responsive to questions.

Here's one that might suit your purposes...

It's good to have options!

 

[maillemaker]

What is the purpose of all this? That is, what are you trying to achieve over using round balls? And, the old balls had a sprue on top. I guess the pure round was more accurate but does anyone know of any mold that turns out the old style?

The "collar button" bullet has a few things that might be beneficial. I say "might be" because you can get fine accuracy with round ball also.

• The Moose Collar button weighs 150 grains. The weight of a .454 round ball is 140 grains.
• The base is "heeled" so that most of the bullet fits into the chamber, leaving only a small head standing proud of the chamber face. This means it will load in probably all .44 revolvers "on the gun".
• Large grease groove if you choose to use it that way.
• The deep-seating base makes the bullet want so seat in the chamber relatively straight.
• Two contact zones for the bullet and rifling.
• A possible "compressive" effect on firing which may make the bullet "bump up" in the rifling, insuring good engagement.
• No sprue to deal with.

 

[dylan84]

SO I want one of the molds not only for my a .44 ACW revolvers, but ALSO I want to try that in something modern...., might go with bullet alloy though instead of all lead for the modern stuff.

IF you have the dimensions drawn up, did you know LEE will make a mold for you? Custom Mold Sheet

LD

Yeah I did talk to Lee. If I could get set up to do it I think I am cheaper than them. I think I could keep the 2 cavity moulds around $65. Work is picking up now in the shop so we will have to play it by ear. If I do have them make it I want to have a tried and true tested design to work with. Thanks for your interest!

 

[Bad Karma]

What is the purpose of all this? That is, what are you trying to achieve over using round balls? And, the old balls had a sprue on top. I guess the pure round was more accurate but does anyone know of any mold that turns out the old style?

Good question. I use the cap and ball revolvers as often as I can, which is several times a week these days. Just messing around, plinking, shooting at targets, whatever. I find the bullets to be easy loading, hitting with more authority in case the thing I'm shooting at needs to stay hit, and plenty accurate for my purposes.

In the immortal words of Kurt Vonnegut, "I tell you, we are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different." Or, as my granddad would say, "It's a beautiful day. What the hell else are we gonna do?"

I think the Lee Molds still leave somewhat of a sprue. I know the molds from Dixie Gun Works do. I also have a .465" mold I got from a fellow in merry olde England which leaves a sprue.

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