burnt/cut patches

[62flint]

I have 62 cal rifle that is either burning or cutting patches. I am shooting 110 grains of 2f with .018 patching .600 round ball and a 1/8 card wad. I am lubeing with a mixture of tallow and beeswax. I end up with 2 spots on my patches right next to each other with holes in it and burnt brown edges around the holes. They are alway where the rifling land hits the patch. I think it may be a rough spot on the rifling like a burr but I am not sure. I have shot this rifle a bit and this is an on going problem since new. This has never been the smoothest barrel. I would think I could shoot it smooth but I am tempted to take some 0000 wool to it or find some one to fresh it out. I don't think I am using to heavy of a load? Oh it is 1-66 or 1-72 twist I can not remember for sure. Round bottom rifling.
Any thoughts?

 

[Vaino]

With a tight cleaning patch can a rough spot be felt? I had a .54 GM bbl that cut patches and some unlubed, green "Scotchbrite" was used for 20 strokes and it's OK now. Just don't come out of the bbl otherwise the bore could become belled at the muzzle. Have you tried a larger ball?...Fred

 

[xxgrampa]

greetings 62,

an easy way to find out is, put a couple of patches on top of the powder then seat the prb. if the ball patch comes out with tears when fired, then you have a ruff bore. if not, then it's burn thru..

yep, that load is kind of stiff. try 65-80 grs. once your pblm of the holes is solved, then go back up on the powder if you like. (ouch!!)

..ttfn..grampa..

 

[62flint]

After I posted this last night. I doubled 2 patches and shoved them down the barrel.They came back with 2 cuts in em bout like the shooting patches. So I guess I need to try to polish the barrel up. I have heard of using steel wool. I never heard of the scotch brite. It.s kinda thick how do you get it in and back out? Little smaller jag?
I have tried .600 ,.610,and .615 round balls. I have about 300 rounds thru this rifle maybe more.I would have thought it would have smoothed up by shooting it.

 

[Birddog6]

Go to the grocery store & get some green scotchbrite & cut it to about a 1 1/2" square patch. Use a .58 cal jag & try to work the patch in by kinda pushing & moving the rod in a circle as you push in, & get it in without tearing the patch. Use full length strokes from tip to breech for about 50 strokes & then try it.. If ya need more do the same all over again.

Also look at the crown of the muzzle & insure you are not cutting the patch when ya load it. I see that happen more than I see one rough or sharp inside cutting them.

:thumbsup:

 

[2172]

agree with Birdog, but if his way doesn't cure it, I've had luck with both fine steel wool wrapped around a bronze brush, and also using JB Bore paste as a patch lube and firing a couple of balls. The bore paste is a mild abrasive compound.
Hank

 

[paulvallandigham]

Its most likely that you have a burr on the end of the lands at the muzzle, and that is cutting the patches. You should be able to locate the burrs easily since the holes appear in the same location on the patch each time. Use good light, and a magnifying glass to let you see the ends of the lands.

When you locate the burrs, you can remove them with the use of a fine polishing stone, or even a fine jeweler's file. I use India, or Carborundum stones for this kind of work. Just a couple of strokes each should remove the burrs.

Of course, this is a trial and error deal, so You polish until you can't see the burrs you spotted any more, then test the bore with a jag and two oiled patches, to see if this has cured the problem.

If you are going to use fine steel wool or the green pads to remove the burrs, consider using a bore brush to push them in and out of the barrel. The bristles will hold onto both the steel wool, and the pad, whichever you choose, but will be easily removed from the brush when you are done. Those steel wool pads are actually layers of thin rows of wire, and can be unraveled, so that you can wrap some of it around the bore brush easily. Steel wool has oil in/on it, but I also like to dip the steel wool, after I put it around the bore brush, in more oil, or spray it with WD40, to make sure it doesn't cut too much. Its actually softer than the steel in your barrel, but it will tear away the burrs. What I am concerned about is smoothing the edge left where the burrs were attached.

 

[Dphar]

Check the crown carefully this is often the source of patch cutting.
It could be a few passes with 0000 steel wool would help. Since its in 2 places all the time could be a rough land.

Powder charge could lust as easily be too light. 110 is not excessive in a 62. This is about the service load for the British Baker.
But powder charge should not cause patch problems if the barrel is good.
Dan

 

[62flint]

stroked the barrel quite a few times with 0000 wool wrapped around a jag. Then I tried a real tight cleaning patch.
When I put the patch in the first 6-8 inches of the barrel and pull it back out.No cuts.I think the burr is in the middle 1/3rd of the barrel.
I stoked the barrel about 50 or so times with the wool to no avail, lest not with the cleaning patches.
I will not get a chance to shoot it till next weekend.
How bout any thing more abrasive? How about a valve lapping compound?
The thing shoots ok. I don't want to damage it.I just feel like if I could get it from tearing patches it might shoot better.

 

[braintan]

I put a new GM 50 cal. barrel on a GPR and it cut patches. I put a 45cal jag on the rod and enough steel wool to make it pretty tight. Went completely in and completely out 100 times. Patches look perfect now. Rifle has about 200 shot and is starting to group pretty good.
I got this info when I called Green Mountain. Hope it helps you.
tim