Butcher Knife

[lonehunter]

Lonehunter, can you explain the pinning process. Is it a straight pin thru strait drilled holes? Df

Yes sir, a straight hole. I start by attaching one side with a dab of super glue where I want it , then drill my holes from the tang side out. Super glue the other side on, flip the knife over and use the holes you drilled in the first slab as a guide.
I then remove the slabs with a sharp blow to the work bench (they will pop right off) clean up the surfaces where the superglue was....A tip... Finish the front of the slabs at this time with them pinned together through the pin holes...epoxy the slabs on with long pins through the holes. After the epoxy has cured cut off the pins and dress them off while shaping the handle.
Sorry i got long winded, I hope I covered any questions you had.

 

[lonehunter]

Thanks. What weight leather do you gentleman usually use for such projects?

I usually use a 6/7oz leather and skive(sp) the edges down pretty far back. I will use 5/6oz if that all I have.
Wick or Chuck need to chime in on the H/c thickness, they are much more qualified than I on the subject.

 

[LRB]

I like the 6/7oz for center seams, and most others, but that is about max thickness for ease of working with. Originals shipped with trade scalpers seem to have been in the 4/5oz range, or even less. In making the center seams, I skive the edges, that will be sewn, down to about half thick.

 

[Brokennock]

Thanks.

 

[yelnif]

Hello Wick, this is great timing for this thread as I have a J. Rodgers & sons 'hunter' bowie knife with a 4 3/4" blade and stag handle that is in need of a center seam sheath with metal(silver?) throat and tip.
Two questions I have before I start;
1)With the thin leathers you use for this is there any concern of the knife penetrating the sheath ( and maybe oneself- bad experience)? something like a rawhide or wood inner sheath would stiffen it as well as make it much harder for a knife tip to poke through would be a good idea? This is how I have made my other sheath's- call it a lesson learned. I have watched your vid Wick and it was very well done- thank you for that. It was a big help in understanding the process.
2) how do you attach the throat and tip to the sheath? All the ones I have made so far have been edge sewn either pouch style or pancake so this will be my first center-seam and I want to get it right.

Thanks, yelnif

 

[LRB]

In a sheath of the size you will be making, there is little to no chance of penetrating the leather in 6/7oz vege-tan. If throated and tipped, even less. If you are still concerned, you can heat treat it and make it very hard with the cuir bouilli process. Dampen, I repeat, dampen, don't soak the sheath, and bake at 140° until dry.
Most often throats and tips were simply glued on. Occasionally tips were pinned, and sometimes throats, but less often than tips. Before oiling the sheath, use epoxy to attach them, and they will be very secure. Originals would have been glued with a hide and rezin glue, but today we can use epoxy for better security if desired. Some English sword scabbards had a frontal tab that was inserted in a slot in the leather, then bent under to secure the throat.

 

[Dandyfunk]

Lonehunter, can you explain the pinning process. Is it a straight pin thru strait drilled holes? Df

Yes sir, a straight hole. I start by attaching one side with a dab of super glue where I want it , then drill my holes from the tang side out. Super glue the other side on, flip the knife over and use the holes you drilled in the first slab as a guide.
I then remove the slabs with a sharp blow to the work bench (they will pop right off) clean up the surfaces where the superglue was....A tip... Finish the front of the slabs at this time with them pinned together through the pin holes...epoxy the slabs on with long pins through the holes. After the epoxy has cured cut off the pins and dress them off while shaping the handle.
Sorry i got long winded, I hope I covered any questions you had.

Thanks Lonehunter, great help!! Df

 

[LRB]

Another tip. In doing what lonehunter described, you want the grip slabs square and true or you get an angled hole. This is best done on a drill press.

 

[yelnif]

In a sheath of the size you will be making, there is little to no chance of penetrating the leather in 6/7oz vege-tan. If throated and tipped, even less. If you are still concerned, you can heat treat it and make it very hard with the cuir bouilli process. Dampen, I repeat, dampen, don't soak the sheath, and bake at 140° until dry.
Most often throats and tips were simply glued on. Occasionally tips were pinned, and sometimes throats, but less often than tips. Before oiling the sheath, use epoxy to attach them, and they will be very secure. Originals would have been glued with a hide and rezin glue, but today we can use epoxy for better security if desired. Some English sword scabbards had a frontal tab that was inserted in a slot in the leather, then bent under to secure the throat.

Thank you Wick, I think I will harden the sheath.