Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine

[locotest]

Anyone here ever use this stuff? I saw some good reviews of it and wondered if anyone here had any experience with it.

 

[Billnpatti]

I have never used the stuff so all I know is what I have read. I am not sure but, it seems to be more appropriate for the folks who shoot the inline guns. Those of us who shoot traditional muzzleloading rifles know that crud can build up in the breach area and needs something more than a patch saturated with a cleaner run up and down the bore. Butch's Bore Shine may well clean the inside of the walls of the bore but leave a gob of wet goo in the breach. I still say that the best and cheapest way to properly clean a traditional muzzleloader is with warm soapy water properly flushed through the bore. In my opinion, it just don't get any better nor cheaper than that. But, if you decide to spend the money ($10 for 8 oz.) that they want for the stuff, please let us know if and how it cleans $10 better than warm soapy water.

 

[Col. Batguano]

What's in it? If it's water based it will still need to be dried with the traditional methods. I like a sopping wet patch of alcohol after I think my bore is already dry after the soap and water treatment. Then swab to dry again.

 

[necchi]

I think you'll find a majority of the guy's have learned to use just plain soapy water.
All the hoo-joo stuff on the market is made to sell just for profit and a lot of it is already just soapy water.
You can certainly spend your money if you choose, but a squirt of Dawn Dish soap in a bucket of water will do everything you need to have done.

 

[bpd303]

I wouldn't use it because it contains a copper solvent (ammonia). As Billnpatti says, formulated for the unmentionables. It would take too much to properly clean a traditional M/L.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Most of my cleaning is done w/ water, but I do use Butch's BP Bore Shine on occasion and it is FANTASTIC!

It is soooooooooooooooo good that I'll bring it to shoots and after others have allegedly 'cleaned' their arms, I challenge them to try it and it ALWAYS pulls more -something (patches come out stained/dark - regardless of good they think they cleaned.

Do you really need it? No.

But is it a great cleaner? Heck YES!

FYI, I can't detect any ammonia in it, but that may be the centerfire cleaner you were thinking about. They are two entirely DIFFERENT products.

 

[robert1]

I have used that, and it does work well.
I made up a mix of rv antifreeze and water to use as a cleaner, and it works just as good, I find.

 

[BrownBear]

I've always been a soap-and-water guy, but bottles of Butch's come with Lymans (or at least they did, up until the last I bought). Each time I've used up most of the bottle before migrating back to water.

Nothing scientific, but just saw no improvement in cleaning or ease of use that justified it. Kind of like a decaf, nonfat, sugar-free latte. In Seattle you'll see those on the menu. They call them a Why Bother. :rotf:

 

[Greenjoytj]

The flip top spout on the Lyman bottle make a great powder horn dispenser.

The clearer works but no better than Dawn detergent in a plastic bucket.

At the range for a quick crud removal it works good and I suspect that is just what it is for.
Once your home deep cleaning at the laundry tub with the short hose, bronze brush, bucket with Dawn.

 

[Rat Trapper]

I've used it and it works pretty good. But soap and water works very well too.

 

[eaglesnester]

Ya it works but I have found that it is no better than joy or dawn dish soap and warm water. why spend money on butches?

 

[nkbj]

The bottle that came with a GPR...
Found it the other day. And it got me to wondering again about the magic formula that would neutralize the corrosive properties of black powder fouling.

 

[Zonie]

Many of the corrosive ingrediants in black powder fouling (and many of the modern substitutes) contain various salts.

As anyone who has dumped too much salt into his pot of stew knows, there isn't anything that can really neutralize it except adding more water to the pot to thin it down.

The same thing holds for the salts in black powder fouling. You can't really neutralize them. You can only wash them away.

 

[nkbj]

That does indeed seem to be the case. It seems the very solubility that assists the salts in promoting corrosion resists rendering them inert. What kind of binder would stop them, I don't know.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Actually there are some products out there, like those used in the marine market (Salt-Away or Salt-X) that do neutralize salts or those used in the chemical industry to remove chlorides from tanks (Chlor-Rid) that work ... but they tend to be expen$ive!

Dihydrogen monoxide works for me ... even though California passed a law banning it once, as too much or too little of it will kill you :wink: .

 

[FishDFly]

No better advice.