Can I turn a set trigger set up to a single trigger set up?

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Hello all. I had a problem today. I lost the fly from my L&R Bedford flintlock. I can purchase a replacement fly but I don’t think I can make it work properly. The question is, can I make this lock, that is designed for a set trigger, work on a single trigger set up? I’ve posted in the past about my trigger issues with this build. It is now back to square one. No fly, the cock will stop at half cock. I worked my problem out and got it to work correctly. It will not work without the fly. I might find it by some miracle. I lost it once. I would just like to know from more experienced folks if it’s ok to use a single trigger on this lock?

Thanks, Jon
 
Why won't a replacement fly work? A single trigger will work with a little fitting, but the fly should work.
A single trigger can be made longer for a better pull weightplus a minor LOP adjustment is possible when drilling the holes.. You just have to follow through with the trigger pull to avoid the half-cock notch.
Another option is to send the lock to L&R and let them do the 10min. job.
 
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Hi EC121. I’m worried about getting it fit right. It’s such a tiny part. A single trigger is something I’m fine with. I just don’t want to break anything. I would have to look up old posts, but I seem to remember someone posting that I could damage the tumbler.

Thanks, Jon
 
When the trigger had the fly installed, how well did it work without using the set trigger?
It worked fine after I adjusted the main spring set screw with the fly in. But now there is nothing to keep that half cock notch from catching. It works the same now with just using the front trigger. I do have a new trigger I could install. I removed too much from the top on the current one. Quite a bit of slop in the front trigger. What I’m trying to say is it fires without the set trigger fine. It fired fine with the set trigger and fly fine also.

Jon
 
Hi EC121. I’m worried about getting it fit right. It’s such a tiny part. A single trigger is something I’m fine with. I just don’t want to break anything. I would have to look up old posts, but I seem to remember someone posting that I could damage the tumbler.

Thanks, Jon
L&R flies can be put in backwards, but a visual inspection before you ever snap it will tell you if it is backwards. It is pretty simple. The slanted parts faces the sear nose. Order a couple of them. (one to use and one to drop.) I stone the surfaces to smooth it and drop it in. They are sometimes they are a little long and need to be shortened on a stone. You can't hurt the tumbler with the fly backwards, but the sear nose can be chipped. The tumbler gets hurt on some of their locks when stirrup link is backwards.
 
With all the work arounds you seem to be going through wouldn't it be easier to just order a new fly? In the time it takes to order a new on you could just as easily make a new one. If you do, use a slightly thicker material than the original, works better. Good luck!!!!!
Robby
Oh yeah, Have you tried tying a magnet to a string and dragging it around the floor area where you lost it?
R
 
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W/ both my TC Hawken and a later scratch built Hawken . the setting trigger {rear} was made inoperable and the front trigger was then altered for a 3 lb pull. The reason was that for a hunting rifle, I prefer a single trigger.

Went elk hunting w/ a friend and one day he was hunting up a steep slope and saw a nice 6 X6 50 yds away, shouldered the TC, set the rear trigger and while trying to put the bead on the elk, touched the front trigger , the rifle fired and he missed the elk.....part of the problem was that he was breathing hard going up the steep slope.

Before we left for this trip, I had asked him if I should make his trigger the same as mine. w/ the blocked set trigger....he said no. After the trip, he said yes and it was done......Fred
 
The Fly(Detent) is not a difficult job.. A piece of 01Steel from Ebay about 3/16"sqare. Cut it down to the depth of to slot at one end. Cut the other end to the length of the tumbler recess.. File the pivot pin and cut the sides of the blank to half.the width of the slot. I will try to post a few sketches to help..One of the casters may have one to save all the trouble.. O.D.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. The fly has been found. How something so tiny can bounce so far, I’ll never know. But everything is good again. I think I will try and make a few to keep around. This was the second time I dropped the fly so this might be a good idea.

Thanks again everyone, Jon
 
[QUOTE="JonBishop] How something so tiny can bounce so far, I’ll never know.[/QUOTE]
😄, LOL,, they really don't bounce,, There's a Gremlin that waits for the drop, then grabs it and runs away to hide it !!
 
The fly has been found. How something so tiny can bounce so far, I’ll never know.
Consider working over a clean bench, maybe covered with a shop rag or towel to minimize ‘bouncing’, while using magnetic parts pans to keep components in one spot. You are not the first to ‘misplace’ a small critical part.
 
It is amazing how a small part or screw can run away and hide. You look high and low for it on hands and knees with a flash light and no where to be found. Then you come back a few days later and it is right down there close to where you are standing and where you look high and low.
 
Try and find a powerful switchable magnet for finding the gremlin stolen screws, detents(fly's) or links. With switchables you can get rid of all the swarf from from around the bench and floor. Makes finding bits easier.. OLD DOG>>
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. The fly has been found. How something so tiny can bounce so far, I’ll never know. But everything is good again. I think I will try and make a few to keep around. This was the second time I dropped the fly so this might be a good idea.

Thanks again everyone, Jon
There is a reason they are called "fly"
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. The fly has been found. How something so tiny can bounce so far, I’ll never know. But everything is good again. I think I will try and make a few to keep around. This was the second time I dropped the fly so this might be a good idea.

Thanks again everyone, Jon
Why did you have the fly out of the lock? Was the lock not functioning properly? Muzzleloader Builders Supply carries them. I've had issues with L&R locks twice. First one was a Manton. Second one was a Bedford. Dave Person helped me fix the second one. L&R dosen't get my business anymore.
 
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If you ask nice L&R will probably give you one. Since they get lost easily, give the nice man $5 and get a couple.
 
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