Cannon carriage “stock” question.
- Thread starter JonBishop
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I understand your question as making a 1/2 scale cannon is a big project. So far I see a cardboard cutout that resembles the trail. But no measurements given. There are a lot of wood and iron parts to a artillery cannon. And you have not given a hint about what drawing you have used to get your pattern. Nor have you shared to what degree of scale finish/assemble you are looking for. There is nothing wrong in making a cannon that kind of looks like the original, but maybe not to include every detail. I used these two pictures to help me, but my models are only similar to original detail, not exact. And they are only about 1/6 scale with a little bit of my design thrown in. A half scale cannon can get costly. Will you be making all parts yourself as I did or buying some? Even the cost of wood could be enough to justify buying the drawings. Or a direct post in asking for drawings here. I have posted about my projects and you are free to watch. And others have done the same and put me to shame. I wish you the best of luck as it can be a lot of fun making a cannon and will also take plenty of time giving you enjoyment.
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Jon,
You can get drawings here. You need Catalog #12.
http://gunneyg.info/html/AOPCatalog.htm
In this case, It is 1/4 scale. I took the trail drawing and blew it up on a copy machine to the correct length, then cut it out, You will have a perfect paper pattern to trace on to your wood. Do it from the side and also from the top.
Your cut out looks close but the part that fits over the axle doesn't look right to me. Look at your drawing again.
You can get drawings here. You need Catalog #12.
http://gunneyg.info/html/AOPCatalog.htm
In this case, It is 1/4 scale. I took the trail drawing and blew it up on a copy machine to the correct length, then cut it out, You will have a perfect paper pattern to trace on to your wood. Do it from the side and also from the top.
Your cut out looks close but the part that fits over the axle doesn't look right to me. Look at your drawing again.
Amen, Bro. I have tried it and what I ended up with is definitely not brag worthy or accurate. Rich and Zulu, those cannon are very drool worthy. Beautiful.
Hello Rich,
The drawing in the no.12 book shows 92.1 inches. I scaled down to 46”. I do plan on making all my iron parts. Sourcing period correct bolts has not panned out. So I will probably use modern bolts and make some of the odd heads (chin bolt, key bolt) and weld them on. I want to be as accurate as I can but I understand my limits. I have all the wood just need to make templates and start cutting (easy right?). The wheels will of course be purchased.
Hello zulu,
That is the area I was wondering about. I have attached a picture of the drawing. It looks like the “trail” has a small notch at the front. Then the trunnion plate is notched for the axle body. Am I looking at this wrong? Your recent thread is what got me into sourcing materials for this project ( thanks, I guess?), it’s why I bought the plans. Been wanting to do this for awhile.
Thank you, Jon
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Jon,
The pictures shown by zulu are really very good for information. Tells the story if you look closely. His carriage making skills are fantastic. If you search his different post you might fine even more pictures. My advice is for you to follow his work. Again good luck with your project, one step at a time, and post your progress.
The pictures shown by zulu are really very good for information. Tells the story if you look closely. His carriage making skills are fantastic. If you search his different post you might fine even more pictures. My advice is for you to follow his work. Again good luck with your project, one step at a time, and post your progress.
Here are some god pictures of how the cheeks get drilled.
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I don't know why I can't get these pictures to show up here.
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I don't know why I can't get these pictures to show up here.
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Jon,
Will offer this approach that some of the iron trim can be made before finish cuts on wood. Meaning fit the wood to the iron instead of trying to fit the iron to the wood. Remember one step at a time.
Will offer this approach that some of the iron trim can be made before finish cuts on wood. Meaning fit the wood to the iron instead of trying to fit the iron to the wood. Remember one step at a time.
Great pictures! Yes sir. One step at a time. I plan on getting some parts made over the long weekend. I’ll post progress, probably in another thread. My lumber for the cheeks are 3/4”. I plan on laminating to get to 1-1/2” thick. That’s a bit thicker than 1/2 scale. Will that 1/10” difference matter? I ask because a lot of things are going to be +/- 1/8”. And do you think laminating will cause drilling problems?
Thank you, Jon
Thank you, Jon
Jon,
You're getting ready to spend countless hours and effort to produce something that if done right, could have some very good value. Why are you going to laminate the cheeks to reach your 1.5" thickness? 1.5" thick oak is readily available. At least it is here in Houston. I just bought some last week.
While most of the laminated wood would not be visible because it is wrapped in iron, the rear will easily be seen.
There is no way I can question Rich44's methods because his work is impeccable. But as an alternative, I always fit the ironwork to the wood.
You have a long learning curve ahead of you. "One step at a time" is very good advice. There are a substantial number of "steps".
As far as drilling holes goes, I have always found it difficult to drill a long hole and have it come out exactly where I want it to. I stopped trying that a long time ago. I now mark all my holes where I want the drill bit to go in and also where I want it to come out. I then drill from both ends making my holes meet in the middle. Problem solved!
While not an example of a field carriage, here are some pictures of me drilling from both sides in a naval carriage. I go as deep as I can on the drill press and finish the holes with a long drill bit.
You're getting ready to spend countless hours and effort to produce something that if done right, could have some very good value. Why are you going to laminate the cheeks to reach your 1.5" thickness? 1.5" thick oak is readily available. At least it is here in Houston. I just bought some last week.
While most of the laminated wood would not be visible because it is wrapped in iron, the rear will easily be seen.
There is no way I can question Rich44's methods because his work is impeccable. But as an alternative, I always fit the ironwork to the wood.
You have a long learning curve ahead of you. "One step at a time" is very good advice. There are a substantial number of "steps".
As far as drilling holes goes, I have always found it difficult to drill a long hole and have it come out exactly where I want it to. I stopped trying that a long time ago. I now mark all my holes where I want the drill bit to go in and also where I want it to come out. I then drill from both ends making my holes meet in the middle. Problem solved!
While not an example of a field carriage, here are some pictures of me drilling from both sides in a naval carriage. I go as deep as I can on the drill press and finish the holes with a long drill bit.
Amen, Bro. Have been there, tried that. The long drills go where they want to go, not necessarily where you want them to go.
Hello zulu,
I have a 3/4” rough sawn oak plank on hand. That was why I was thinking of laminating. No wood to buy. I get what you’re saying though. I’ll source some 1-1/2”. I’ll probably have to buy online as there aren’t any specialty wood sellers around here. I do have some places to look locally but they’re just some local folks.
I feel you on drilling the long holes. I stress over drilling tang bolts even though I use your same method of drilling and those aren’t even as long.
I hope to get all the hot work done in between now and before it gets hot again. I also suspect there will be some fitting metal to wood and wood to metal.
Right now I expect this project to cost $2,000. Then maybe also 2,000 hours. I hope not but I do move slow. That price point could go up if I’ve underestimated propane, charcoal, welding gas consumption other consumables.
I have all the metal I need for the project. I’ll just need to buy some fasteners. I noticed you used carriage bolts and some all thread on your build. Better idea than mine. I’ll go that route.
Jon
I have a 3/4” rough sawn oak plank on hand. That was why I was thinking of laminating. No wood to buy. I get what you’re saying though. I’ll source some 1-1/2”. I’ll probably have to buy online as there aren’t any specialty wood sellers around here. I do have some places to look locally but they’re just some local folks.
I feel you on drilling the long holes. I stress over drilling tang bolts even though I use your same method of drilling and those aren’t even as long.
I hope to get all the hot work done in between now and before it gets hot again. I also suspect there will be some fitting metal to wood and wood to metal.
Right now I expect this project to cost $2,000. Then maybe also 2,000 hours. I hope not but I do move slow. That price point could go up if I’ve underestimated propane, charcoal, welding gas consumption other consumables.
I have all the metal I need for the project. I’ll just need to buy some fasteners. I noticed you used carriage bolts and some all thread on your build. Better idea than mine. I’ll go that route.
Jon
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Jon,
Well sounds like you are all in. That is great news, the cannon department needs some new building and more posting activity. Look forward to your story of progress, this will be fun.
If you get really good at this type of work, you can do it backwards like me, and show off.
Well sounds like you are all in. That is great news, the cannon department needs some new building and more posting activity. Look forward to your story of progress, this will be fun.
If you get really good at this type of work, you can do it backwards like me, and show off.
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Hello.
Just wanted to get back and give a little progress report. I’ve made the axle housing and some metal bits. I also made a trail using a slab of hickory that was within a few hundredths of thickness of the half scale I needed. It was a failure. I just figured the saw cut edges were square. They were not. So I’m starting anew. This one I cut out away from the edge to insure it would be square. It is. So now I can proceed with the trail. Picture of the failed trail and the square slab. I’ll keep posting updates, so watch this space!
Jon
Just wanted to get back and give a little progress report. I’ve made the axle housing and some metal bits. I also made a trail using a slab of hickory that was within a few hundredths of thickness of the half scale I needed. It was a failure. I just figured the saw cut edges were square. They were not. So I’m starting anew. This one I cut out away from the edge to insure it would be square. It is. So now I can proceed with the trail. Picture of the failed trail and the square slab. I’ll keep posting updates, so watch this space!
Jon
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By golly you are correct. You are really making some progress. Glad to see your work, kept us up to date as it is interesting to see it looking better all the time.
