Can't separate flintlock cock and tumbler

[DaveBeal]

I have a new Pedersoli Kentucky flintlock pistol. The trigger pull is very heavy (usually off the scale of my Lyman electronic gauge). I decided I would start with stoning the sear nose and tumbler notch. I followed Bob McBride's instructions on how to disassemble the lock (), but I can't separate the cock from the tumbler. I've put the lock across an open vise, as Bob showed, and whacked the tumbler square shank using both a brass and steel punch. I put Kroil on it and let it sit overnight and then hit it hard enough to bend the lock plate slightly, but the shank doesn't budge. I've considered heating the cock with a butane torch, but I'm concerned that that will damage the case coloring. I suppose some kind of a press is the right tool for the job, but I don't have one. Any suggestions?

 

[rafterob]

You can apply enough heat to loosen it up without affecting the temper or color. Just keep moving the torch around the cock, if you start to see red you have heated too much. You just need to heat it enough so it expands slightly. Have your punch and hammer at the ready.

 

[deerstalkert]

i have used the wifes hair dryer to heat fragile colored parts.
assuming you have all the other internals removed you can use a large socket to bridge around the tumbler. gives better support than across the open jaws of the vise.
if you can, find a screw that fits the axle threads and can be sacrificed . start with it just loose and drive it until it is tight against the cock. loosen and repeat until it is free.
don't ask why i suggest the screw that can be sacrificed.

 

[Sam squanch]

Don’t use the vise method!!! Take a piece of hard maple or oak or whatever, drill a hole just a little bigger than the tumbler. Then whack on it with a brass punch. I’ve seen lock plates bent and warped with the vise as a support.

 

[Polecat_Tom]

assuming you have all the other internals removed you can use a large socket to bridge around the tumbler.

In the past I used parallel bars. On the last two locks I used a socket and a larger hammer. I think the socket as a backer works much better. Once I got the cock off I cleaned the cutout with some small files and now they come off much easier.

 

[Rob M.]

D@mn ....ive never had one that a brass rod and a hammer would not separate the two parts ....best of luck

 

[Eric Krewson]

I made one of these, I had to mark what it was because I would throw it away if the hole wasn't up thinking it was one of dozens of pieces of scrap wood that accumulate on my work bench.

 

[2 shots]

might want to relabel that eric.

 

[Sam squanch]

Just think- some one will find that years from now…..and WONDER!

 

[2 shots]

Just think- some one will find that years from now…..and WONDER!

i can just see them trying to figure out how to use it

 

[54ball]

Instead of torch heat,
Boil the lock.
No joke, this works.

 

[Dusty_Traveler]

might want to relabel that eric.

"Lorena"

 

[Davey Boy]

And try iodine 10% usp

let it sit overnight

 

[geb324]

You can use a Socket if you have a wrench set that is what I use

 

[rich pierce]

I think it’s shameful that lock makers use a strong press to fit cock to tumbler and do zero actual fitting.

 

[hockeyref]

i can just see them trying to figure out how to use it

You really wanna get ‘em going, keep the label and drill the hole the whole way thru.

 

[DaveBeal]

My thanks to everyone who responded. As suggested, heating the cock with a butane torch got the pieces separated without harming the case color. The suggestion to use a large socket around the tumbler to support the lock also helped a lot. I tried stoning the sear nose and tumbler notch, but this was not very effective because the edge of my stone was not sharp enough to get into the notch. I think the sear spring was the real problem. I filed it a bit and squeezed it with pliers to lighten it. The trigger went from 12+ pounds to about 7. That good enough for me.

 

[James Kibler]

No need to heat. This will likely lead to problems. Vise / punch method works fine with good technique. Really quite simple. I believe I show this in videos.

 

[Col. Batguano]

I've used the boiling method for lots of stuck parts before, like stuck butterfly valves on a carburetor. Some times it has to go a few hours, but it works. No worries with the temper either. And then a dose of penetrating oil, followed by a big hammer.