Cant stop the rust

[stacks]

Just finished my GPR kit rifle, used the LM rust brown degreaser. I followed the instruction, used 5 coats of the solution, wiped it clean and followed with a saturation of oil. Several days later, the barrel keeps bleeding rust, even through the oil. What to do????

 

[Roy]

Just keep on wiping it down and oiling it. What type of oil are you using?

 

[tallbear]

Stacks
I would strip off the oil with a solvent of some kind.Then I would make a paste of baking soda and water.Slather it on to kill the acid and then rince well with water and reoil.The baking soda will kill the acid in the browning solution.

Mitch

 

[Vaino]

Never had any luck in preventing after rust w/ baking soda or a few other neutralizers. Now use household ammonia and believe me it "kills" the rusting process. The small parts are submerged and w/ the bbls I apply the ammonia w/ a paint brush. So easy.....Fred

 

[redwing]

Use a NATO Mil. SPEC. gun oil a CLP such as Break Free gun oil. This will stop rust and not harm the guns finish other wise. :thumbsup:

 

[Bob Riegl]

:bow: Do like Roy says I have a H&A Underhammer that i browned and it was still bleeding rust for two weeks---just wipe with an oiled rag--it will stop soon. :thumbsup:

 

[Birddog6]

Sorry :shake: The BreakFree will not stop the browning process unless you rub the bejesus out of it for a week, etc. and them maybe it will stop. But just applying it will not stop the rust, as I have steel wooled barrels to smooth them (card them) then Liberally coat them with BreakFree & the next day they are just as rough & rusted as if I never touched them..

You have to neutralize the rusting first. Ammonia, Rusty Duck, or baking soda/water will stop it but on all 3 you have to reoil & rub the heck out of them or they will start rusting again. The Rusty Duck aerosol will actually remove the rust & leave a black/blue finish, but it will rust again if you don't rub it down good for the next 2-3 days.

You have to get the metal neutralized & the pores sealed off from all moisture & air, then it will stop rusting. If you get air in the pores of the metal, it has humidity in it & it will start rusting again if not sealed off & a rust inhibitor applied. But first you have to stop the rust, that is the starting point.

:thumbsup:

 

I've always use BC's "sheath" and have never had after rust. I do like the ammonia idea though. I didn't know ammonia was a base. I'll have to give that a try

 

[BEP]

Although I've used the LMF product and like it, I've always felt that their instructions are lacking when it comes to stopping the browning/rusting process.

Here's what I've had to do. First, remove that oil. You can do this with just soap and water but remember to rinse thoroughly. Then, make a PASTE of baking soda and very warm water and rub it on. Continue to apply it (using a soft cloth) for several applications. Really slather it on. After four or so times, rinse thoroughly using hot water. The LMF solutuion is acidic and you are neutralizing it with a base (baking soda). If you remember your high school chemistry, an acid plus a base yields a salt and water. So you not only have to neutralize that acidic solutuion but you have to rinse away whatever type of salt results from the neutralization.

Then dry thoroughly and apply a really heavy coating of your favorite protective oil. Allow to hang for 24 hours, then wipe off the excess oil. Should do it for you; always has for me. Good luck.

 

[2158]

stacks, i use a baking soda paste, let it sit on
parts two-three minutes. than rub off. the powder
is a mild abrasive that also burnishes the surface. the next step is to use rain water to rinse clean.tap water has chlorine, which will
keep the rusting process going. last step is
heat barrel-parts with hand torch and coat with
boiled linseed oil. be carefull, get oil to hot
it will smoke or catch fire... mike

 

[Birddog6]

You know, I was going to try some Sheath but can't find the can I had. I also thought possibly that would work. Next time I am at the store I will see if they have it & try it. I know it works good on the Sheath Wipes to wipe the pistols. Don't like to smell it but it seems to work. Never use it on a hunting rifle as a deer could smell if to 300 yards !

 

[shortstring]

Keep in mind that linseed oil is a base. Dr. Bob Daley turned me on to using it to kill the browner. Might give that a try.

Paul

 

[spitpatch]

This works for me. NAPA dextron IIV mercon automatic transmission fluid. Worked well! The gent that got me started says it works even better if mixed equal with kerosene.I now wipe my guns down with the mixture after use.

 

[redwing]

When using a CLP you must use a cleaner such as Powder Blast first. Then you use the CLP or oil to stop rust. This stuff works great. Any way hope you find some thing rust is a killer.

 

[barebackjack]

I too could not get the barrel neutralized with just baking soda, i use ammonia with good results (just finished a barrel last night).

I than wash in hot hot hot water, and place the barrel on top of the range to heat it up and get it good and dry. While hot I rub on a very liberal amount of rem-oil, and will re apply the oil for several days. Seems to work pretty good.

 

[Vaino]

It's amazing that more builders don't use household ammonia to "kill" the rusting process...readily available, cheap and easily applied. After rinsing the ammonia off w/ very hot water, I rub lightly w/ auto paste wax and 0000 stl wool to smooth out the finish, wipe off the wax and apply new auto paste wax and when dry, rub down. Parts so treated are impervious to even an all day rain.LMF browning and degreaser is all I ever use now but this stuff is more difficult to "shut down" and that's why I use the ammonia. Of course I don't know if ammonia and auto paste wax were available in 1780.....Fred :hmm:

 

Yeah, it was--It was called buggy wax, and horse pee. :rotf: :blah:

Bill

King Kongs last words--I'll never date Blonds anymore!

 

[Roy]

Never really thought about it, never had a problem stopping the rusting process though, even here where the humidity is high. I'll give ammonia a try though next time I brown a barrel, getting fewer and farther between.

 

[jtmattison]

Did you neutralize it with baking soda and water?
After you neutralize and oil, the browning process stops.

HD

 

[Vaino]

Hey....good substitutes and have you tried them on your rifles? King Kong isn't the only one.....Fred